ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hello, I finally changed out the capacitors, added a new servobelt, re-soldered all wires to the DIN connector, and cleaned and lubricated both the drive screw and guide shaft for the tone arm, but when I start to play an album; the tone arm moves over the the edge of the record, but not all the way to catch the starting grooves. Thus, I use the fast forward button to align the cartridge and then have to push the play button for the tone arm to set down. But, the minute the tone arm sets on the album it will pop right back up again. I will then push play again and go through the same process until after about 10 times I will hear the mute solenoid click and hear a brief sound of music from the album before the tone arm pops up again. This will go on for about five to ten times before the tone arm will finally settle in and play the album. Also, I watch the servobelt drive motor and it seems to be running properly to turn the threaded drive shaft forward properly, but am not sure since if the tone arm dose not stay aligned properly it will send a signal to pop up the tone arm.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated and followed explicitly; for I want to listen to my vinyl once again and get them recorded.
rpowell47
The carriage not moving to allow the tonearm to hover above the lead-in groove is in most casescaused by a wrong servo motor belt. Indeed, we have seen this before here on beoworld and in myrepairshop in particular. I have a glass jar with wrong belts taken out of B&Os, the majority of thembought on Ebay it seems.The last few mm travel towards the record lead-in is done at very slow speed so if the beltis wrong/too tight/too stiff and/or the carriage doesn't slide freely enough, the whole thing grindsto a halt at this point, just as you describe it.
The other symptom points to a wrong setting of the two screws at the back of the operating panel.There is an adjustment procedure in the service manual, not too difficult.Actually, this can also cause the above mentioned symptom...But check both!
Did you replace all the caps in the kit ?Did you check for cracked solder joints as suggested in the kit info ?
Martin
Hey, thanks for the reply. Yes, I changed all the cap as per kit and spent about an hour slowly going over each solder connection throughout the the entire machine. Yes, I did buy the new belt off E-bay; so do you have an outlet for one that you believe is the exact fit for the Beogram 8000? Also, I'll study the setting of the two screws at the back of the operating panel. Also, the only Cap that I did not replace is the one sitting under the IC in the CPU casing it is listed as a 47uF and by the time I got to that stage, I was rather spent with anxiety since I have not done any type of circuit board repair in over 40 years. But, I was very studious and focused during the CAP replacement procedure. So what are your thoughts? Should I go ahead and replace the 47uF in the CPU case? It seems to be rather touchy and rather hard to access, but I will if you think I should. Again thanks for your thoughts - What is the alternative if I don't keep trying to fix this old beast?
PS: I followed the 5-1 procedures from the manual the best I could, but after I was done - No difference in operation. Same as described above. I'm not sure what you mean by " the two screws at the back of the operating panel" Nonetheless, I watched the tonearm servo motor and belt relationship and noticed that the motor will turn about one to one-and-a-half turns before the belts grabs and moves the tonearm screw assemble which does not allows the tonearm to keep pace with the record grove forward movement. My assumption is that I did in fact get the wrong belt. What are your thoughts and again where can I purchase the correct belt from my Beogram 8000?
Randy
That cap inside the CPU casing is very essential.It must be replaced.The dirty way is to cut out the old cap from above, leaving as much as possible of its leads in the boardand then solder the new cap to these leads. Make sure no connections are established to nearby joints.It's also essential to check the CPU sockets solder joints, they are almost always cracked causing all sorts of erratic actions. Thisrequires access to the rear side of that board so you can just as well replace the cap while doing the re-soldering.If you don't feel up to the task, take out the board and bring it to someone who does.
There are two large black screws at the rear side of the operating panel, behind the << and >> buttons, adjusting theopto interrupter for those buttons respectively.There is a voltage readout from each adjustment.
Most belts sold as suitable are far too thick and tight as if the seller only took size into account and never actually tested one themselves.It actually needs to sit pretty lose, almost sag a bit, to run freely enough.I can supply a suitable servo motor belt if you need. But Start with the cap and the adjustments.They are both very essential.
Thanks Martin,
I have completely dissembled the beast and took very good care of replacing the cap inside the CPU casing. Also, I checked for any solder cracks on the CPU socket joints and did not find any even after cleaning with Deoxit R-5 and wiping the area clean with isopropyl alcohol 91%. Then I moved on to the Servobelt and found it to be square and not a V shaped belt that would fit both pullys. When I first worked the new belt into position I had not dissembled the entire turntable housing assemblies. Thus, I did not realize that the pullys are V shaped. Otherwise, I would not have used the new square belt from one of the ebay suppliers. So, I guess what I really must do now is to have you send me a belt or the name of a supplier that truly knows which belt is correct for the Beogram 8000. I would like to reassemble the turntable and check it out since I replaced the 47uF cap inside the CPU casing, but do not want to waist any more time on this project until I have all of the correct parts in place!!
Again thanks for your wisdom, time, and support in this quest!
My replacement belt is also square. The triangular belts are no longer produced.It's not very important if it's square or round, the most important thing is that it runs freely and if the beltis tight, it doesn't run freely enough, it puts a too high sideways load on the motor spindle and threaded shaft.
Check those adjustment screws for the << and >> buttons !It doesn't cost anything.
Dillen: Check those adjustment screws for the << and >> buttons !It doesn't cost anything. Martin
Hi,
That definitely was the problem with my 6006 (similar to the 8000). The symtoms were the same. And as Martin says, it costs nothing trying! Just pull the panel. Be careful not to break the clips, although they are very strong, unlike other parts of the deck!
Jacques
Well, SAD news! After replacing all the CAPS, Cleaning & Lubricating everything and putting all back together - absolutely now power. Checked to make sure the transformer was plugged in properly -- it was and seated -- NO little red dot in the speed control LEDs. So I took it all back apart and started checking for any circuit board or solder issues again and found that, buy removing the circuit board CPU case -- and the machine being 30 years old -- that some of the foil has now broken loose from the circuit board making many little breaks in the circuits. Thus, I guess unless I could find another Beogram 8000 circuit board and possibly a CPU & IC my dream of recording my vinyl is simply that -- a dream. Being retired, I simply don't have the $ to replace or send this one off for repair. OH, well such is life. Also, I would like to thank all of you for offering your advise; it was very much appreciated.
If it's just a matter of a few copper tracks broken away from the board,you can repair it by bridgin with pieces of insulated wire.These boards are quite sensitive to excess heat.
Can we see a photo ?
Dillen: If it's just a matter of a few copper tracks broken away from the board,you can repair it by bridgin with pieces of insulated wire.These boards are quite sensitive to excess heat. Can we see a photo ? Martin
I had a BG 6500 with broken tracks repaired with wires, and it works dont give up, you already did a good job, and invested some time on the unit.
And yes a pic would be nice
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
How can we help Randy, hmmmm...(where is the hmmmm smiley anyway?)
Brengen & Ophalen
Hey, I took your advise and bridged the two foil breaks and was so excited to put it back together and see the little red dot, but NO little red dot. It has been so long since I did any projects like this and I do not have any way to check voltage except with an old Craftsman Volt meter, I think I am going to simple pack it up and save up for a used Thorens which is by far less complected and will allow me to at least record some of my vinyl for my children and grandchildren. Again, thanks for all of you encouragement and ideas.
I once repaired a 'no red dot' Beogram 8000. It was the power supply whose connector had found its way to the bottom of the black box!
Don't give up on this Beogram yet!
And yes we love photos!
Ok! talk with me as if I'm a third grader! Where do I upload photos into this forum?
First of all Edit your photos down to some 800 pixel wide, Go to http://photobucket.com/, open an account, its free, upload your photos, now go to the thread where you want to post your photo, click reply, write your text, place your curser where you want your pic, click the film strip in the menu, choose URL, Open photobucket in a new tab, open the album where your pic is, place curser over pic, below the pic a menu opens, click direct link, the link will show, "link copied", go back to forum thread in the other tab, past link to URL, click insert. done.
Sounds like a lot of job, but just try it a couple of times, and then its easy. Make diff. folder on Photobucket, and you can keep all your photos there, and publish them where you want. And you have an extra back up of your pics
I don't like free servers: they will always end up erasing your precious data. Then in a few months your post will show stupid question marks where your pictures used to be...
WOW!!! It is running just like it is supposed to. How did that happen????
Well, by not having any experience with fixing a Beogram 8000 and not doing any electronic repair since the early 1970s, I simply forgot to truly look for the obvious. YOU KNOW FUSES - well the one fuse in the power supply had blown - so off to the store - came back as excited as a school boy having his first date - replaced the fuse - put the whole beast back together and crossed my fingures as I plug it in - and, WOW - "little-red-dots!!!!!" After I moved the two screws under the << and >> buttons and the Stop Switch, every thing is working just as I remembered it doing so over twenty years ago. Now for one final question - the digital read out numbers are not all of the same brightness as they were when I first started this repair saga -- any thoughts? I can read the numbers and the speed control works just fine, but the numbers are not the same brightness. Oh, well if that is the only little bug, I sure can live with it all the while I am recording my vinyl for my children and grandchildren -
Ah yes the fuse within the black box!
Well done, well done!
Randy, that is awesome. I'm happy for you.
The moral of the story - don't ever give up completely! There are too many people here willing to help and offering encouragement to ever give up. Some times you may have to put your project down for a while, but never, ever give up completely.
Now, for a question. You sound like a guy who is recording his LPs for a final time before getting rid of them. Say it isn't so!
Well, darnit! I guess I spoke to soon. After playing and being in heaven for almost four albums, the old girl just pick up her arm and started blinking at the tone arm and the speed indicator LEDs then the arm finally traveled back to the stop position and she just kept on blinking and trying to turn the platter backwards. So I unplugged it and waited for about 2 minutes plugged her in again and listened to about two tracks and the same problem started all over again.
I'm wondering if it is the voltage that is controlled by the two large screws under the << and >> buttons or maybe the large CAP located inside the power supply housing. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
PS: I do not have any means to measure the spec voltage from the output of the Manual << and >> adjustment screw A or B. The manual states: Adjust the screw A and B after approx. 5 minutes operation until 620 mV is measured on Pin 4 of P5 and on pin 6 of P5. - Any suggestions would be nice.
You need to adjust those two screws using a multimeter/voltmeter.Get a cheap one off Ebay, it'll be fine and you can use it for lots of other things, your car etc..
Did you replace the cap inside the metal housing ?Did you resolder the processor socket ?
Well, I thought I would report on the Beogram 8000 repair saga.
After reading Martin's post and realizing that if this O'l girl was ever going to play vinyl again, I needed to simply get after it and not be timid about using Deoxit R-5 on all of the solder joints and pin connections; thus, I removed all the electronics again and removed the IC in the CPU case and sprayed both the sockets and pin on all that I could find. I then just walked away and left until this morning. Put the O'l girl back together and have been recording my vinyl ever since without any disruptions. The 33.33 LED still has the second 3 brighter than the others, but as long as she keeps right on spinning my vinyl, I'm happy and really enjoying hearing the tunes as I record them on CDs. WOW! it is great!!
Hope all of your projects turn out OK and that all of you have a feeling of accomplishment like I do.
Hello all!
Well, I thought I would check in and let you all know that I was able to record over 200 albums before I had any problems with the Beogram 8000.
Yesterday, I finally finished organizing all of my classical vinyl and was ready to start the long recording process, but to my surprise, the tone arm comes over just it is supposed to and then sits for a while - does not set down - then continues on across the album, not quit to the end - stops and returns to the off position. It seems as though it is not sensing that there is an album. Any thoughts!!
Two screws at the back of the operating panel ...