ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi All,
I'm new to the forums, though I've been a collector of B&O for some time. I need some advice!
I've recently acquired a BeoSystem 5500, which is in great condition, apart from the Beogram Platter. It's not corroded to the point of pitting, but the surface has a white haze over it; it almost looks like it's been washed, and not dried properly. I've tried wiping over with a damp cloth, and while the marks disappear whilst the surface is damp, as soon as I dry it the white 'tide-marks' return.
I'm reluctant to use anything stronger than soapy water, as I've heard that the platters have some sort of coating on them.
Has anyone had any success cleaning Aluminium Platters? If so what products did you use?
If the worst come to the worst - does anyone know of a good source of Spares?
Thanks,
Richard...
An update, just in case anyone else has this issue - I spoke to B&O about this; in summary they said that the platters originally had a clear-coat sprayed on them, and that this had probably been damaged and that the only way to fix it would be to get the platter re-coated, but that's not a service they offered, and they don't stock spares (no surprise there). So I decided to experiment!
I suspected that the clear coat had actually worn off some time ago (the platter is 30-odd years old and any coating is unlikely to have survived that long), and that the white was actually light corrosion of the Aluminium as a result of the loss of the clear-coat protection; so I thought i'd approach the restoration with that in mind.
Rather than use Brasso (as suggested by another forum member) I opted for something a bit less harsh - A mild silver polish I have previously used to good effect on cutlery (The can said it also worked on aluminium). Wow - What a difference! Starting gently at first, and interspersing with cleaning in cold Soapy water (and drying thoroughly), the marks gradually faded to the point where I have a platter that looks pretty good. The black markings on the platter also seem to be unaffected by the cleaning.
I'm sure further cleaning would improve the result even more (there are a couple of areas that still aren't 100%), but i'm not going to push my luck and risk ruining it.
I anticipate that the platter will degrade again over time, without it's protective coating (i'm tempted to seal it, but not sure what with, as I don't want to use something that will end up damaging the vinyl); hopefully it will do so gradually and more evenly than it did last time (which I suspect was as a result of a previous owner leaving the platter wet). In any event I'd be more than happy to repeat this process, given the result.
We have had several threads about this subject.B&O platters have a coating that eliminates static electricity build up on the record as it rotates and plays.This coating will be irrepairably damaged by washing with water or solvents.
Use a soft dry cloth to wipe the platter - nothing else.
You are washing away the coating.If you continue to wash and rub, you will eventually have removed it all and eliminated the plattersantistatic properties completely.And yes, depending on the records you play, you can hear the difference very clear in the form of static discharges ("pops").In severe cases it may even cause the thin coil leads inside the cartridge to burn over (which usually means goodbye cartridge or at least a costly repair).
Never clean B&O platters with anything but a soft and dry cloth.
Martin
That's interesting; B&O stated that this was not the case when I spoke to them (I asked about anti static coating) - They said it was simply a clear-coat; Perhaps their support team don't have the right information for a deck that's out of production.
Either way, in the case of my platter, the coating has long since gone - hence the discoloration due to oxidisation of the aluminium. So cleaning was the best solution to me - I wouldn't have done it to a platter in good condition.
I do wonder why you would need an anti-static coating on something that conducts electricity? I know that the platter has the raised markings, but these are nowhere near big enough to isolate the vinyl from the aluminium substrate.
I will seriously consider getting the platter re-coated now though (B&O recommended getting it re-sprayed with a clear coat at a local paint-shop!) - just need to research options 1st.
It is interesting though that I've noticed the BeoGram deck suffers much less from static build-up than my Rega deck (You can lift up the anti-static mat on that after playing an LP!), even without the anti-static coating.
The problem is not the platter, it's the record that collects static as it rotates and air flows over it.The raised streaks on the platter creates a small vacuum under the record when it rotates to stabilize the record (suck it down ever so slightly) andto improve static discharge.The record is discharged through the platter streaks (also covered by the coating) , the platter itself, through the metal subplatter, bearing and to the chassis.
I suppose not many people currently at B&O were there when Beograms were produced and some of the answers you get from customer service are "cheap and easy".It's in the catalogues.- And the user manual will tell you about cleaning.
Never use antistatic mats on Beograms. The tracking angle will be wrong and the record sensing system will not work correctly.You can risk playing the mat - not good for the cartridge.On Beograms they won't improve anything anyways.
Clear lacquer (read: a plastic coating) will not improve matters (quite contrary if it acts as an insulator).Finding an intact platter would be the best solution and shouldn't be all impossible.
I agree 100% with Martin, once you wash the coating off with either water or solvent, you have effectively ruined the platter and will need to buy another.
Regards Graham
Thanks for the info Martin - It's an interesting theory, though i'm not convinced that the vacuum created by the spinning of a record would achieve any meaningful degree of down-force, the forces invoked would be miniscule - sounds like the usual Audiophile/B&O snake-oil to me, of which i'm very sceptical [:)
Fortunately, it seems my platter still discharges, since it doesn't seem to be building up any significant charge; certainly nothing like my Rega - I'm not surprised by this though, as the gap between the streaks and the platter is nothing like big enough to prevent static leakage.
For the sake of purism, I might see if i can get it coated with an antistatic clear coat; there are a few on the market.
Thanks for your help/info.
If you are used to other brands, I fully understand your sceptism, but B&O never sold snake-oil.- And never claimed to be "Audiophile" in any way.For selected units B&O released a limited number of technical manuals explaining the theory behind the units, the mechanics and electronics, - often down to component level. For their own educational purposes I believe - some of them clearly typed on a machine with addedhanddrawings etc. and then duplicated. Some were called "Teknisk Produkt Information".I remember seeing the downforce calculations in one of them (Beogram 4000 perhaps) and even if I don't remember theexact amount, I do remember being quite surprised by the amount myself.
Unfortunately I think it was ruined before I got my hands on it; so trying to make the best of a bad job. I'm pretty sure its salvageable though.
Thanks for all your responses - for the time being i'm happy with the results of my refurb; however, if static build-up does become an issue in the future, and I decide to anti-static clear-coat the platter, i'll post here with the results, in case anyone is interested.
Thanks Again.
Is there no way to recoat the platter? What did B&O coat them with back then?
I've no idea what B&O used, but there are a number of anti-static products on the market that would do the same job. Most seem to be either spay or wipe on and leave to dry; they leave a thin, clear conductive layer behind, which, I believe, would achieve much the same effect as the original coatings - though I've not tried one out yet!
Hello Dillen,
I have two platters that will benefit from a light cleaning: a Beogram 5500 and a Beocenter 7700, both with some sort of light white rust or similar.I've understood your advice to not clean them with anything else than a dry cloth because of the coating.
Then i cam across that thread where you unbelievably bring back from wherever it was a Beogram 2000 turned yellow by nicotine.You obviously did clean the platter too, so I wonder is there something that can be done to refresh the platters, even if complicated or near impossible?Or is there a rule like "you can do it once or twice in the whole life of the platter but not more" ?
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/5230/164378.aspx#164378
In the specific case of the 5500, I'm also concerned by the printed pattern on the platter.(By the way, sorry to ask, but I wonder how those thin printed lines can prevent the record to rub on the mettalic platter?)
I suppose it is a matter of balance between dirt and use but, as ever, your advice would be welcome.
Thank you.
Oh, it has been many Beograms since I did that Beogram 2000 and, I must confess, I cannot remember if I replaced the platter or cleaned it.If I was able to find a good platter in the dungeons I'm sure, that's what I did.If not, I might have ended up cleaning the platter as that was the last resort at the time. Certainly the "before" photo suggests that the platter had alreadybeen cleaned (or at least an attempt had been made) at some point before I got it in, since that's what they usually end up looking after the first attempt at cleaning, with the coating partly damaged.
The streaks are not printed, they are stamped or cast onto the platter. It's not a lot but they do have a little height (you can easily feel them), just enough to make the record clear the platter.
The light white "rust" could be oxidation. Airs moisture or some chemical from record cleaners or whatever, attacking the aluminium.You can remove the white "dust", but there will be scars that can be difficult to remove.
Thank you Dillen (I always feel not "allowed" to call you Martin)
I thought you'll just came with any marvelous answer about "fleur d'oranger mixed with some decoction of tea leaves" which would work flawlessly.But your actual answer make sense and was what I thought thinking about the dungeon your often speak about.
Wouldn't it be ironic that after fixing the unit thanks to Beoworld topics, sending cells to be rebuild to the guy you recommend me, the weak spot would be aluminium rust with no solution?
Anyway, Thank you..
The solution could be a replacement platter.
And please do call me Martin. I sign my posts that way myself, so it'll be alright.
Thank you, Martin.