ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
No Jacques, to much hassle to have access repairingthe potmeters.
Frede gave me a picturized workinstruction ( thanks Frede, and I sure will come for coffee).
It works as long as I don't touch the Phono input potmeter. Tomorrow I will get another one but the volume scale on the frontplate is vanished. How can I fix that?
Today I have been working on my Beomaster 1200. Very dirty and the veneer has to be repaired! Had to replace the big acrylic tuning slider (yellow and scratches) with a self made one. What a beauty it is now
I had some problems fixing the 3 lamps (LW/MW/FM) that was slightly burning. Issue was a dirty potmeter. Just a few turns and it's working now. I will post a picture later.
Tomorrow I gonna work on my Beomaster 6000 quad.
Brengen & Ophalen
Did you notice an enrichment of the sound ? :-P
chartz: Step1: chartz: The workbench? Not so sure now... If it works right Jacques, and you are happy with the performance then I would just leave it be :) Yes Olly, I agree.I just replaced the rubber feet.
Step1: chartz: The workbench? Not so sure now... If it works right Jacques, and you are happy with the performance then I would just leave it be :)
chartz: The workbench? Not so sure now...
The workbench? Not so sure now...
If it works right Jacques, and you are happy with the performance then I would just leave it be :)
Yes Olly, I agree.I just replaced the rubber feet.
Olly
Have fun with the 6000 :) I also have a 6000 project and the continuation of my 8000 soon, and intend to post up details....
We shall see!
A little tip regard the 6000. Make a photographic note of all the wires attached directly to the boards, especially those attached to the amp / level amp 7.... They have a nasty tendency to suddenly appear in bunches if you have to move things a bit with little to no clue as to where they once lay!
Step1: Did you notice an enrichment of the sound ? :-P
Yes, and Safari is faster too.
Joking aside, it does sound excellent, very lively with good imaging.
Jacques
Olly, any idea how to remove the BM6000 quad touchpanel, is it possible? I know the bottom show which screws to remove incl. the nut. But whats the next step? Want to let them repolish because the fingerprints are really annoying.
Ok I start by removing the upper panel - 4? slot screws at rear and two hex bolts on the little top switch bank, and two long screws that travel through the wooden surround at the rear. After the rear grill has come away remove the perspex panel. nut as you said for the dial you may have to gently knock that out tapping at bottom shaft... Now for the wooden trim - I think 5 screws (you removed two already!) hold the wooden surround - I tip the center up and the wooden surround drops away and slides off as one piece - The main panel is now loose so be careful!
Now the master can be layed down - leave a space in front of about 5". The switch panel can now be removed and flipped over, wires still attached mind! The PCB's are held on by some small grub screws and a metal bar. After removal of the boards the front panel is now free :)
Watch out for the black spacers even if they remain try pulling each off as the glue will be weak and this is why the keys spring up - you will have to set up a little jig to re-glue these if they come away quite simple bridge if we need to get to that!
Will look forward to seeing any reconditioned panel Leslie. As far as I know it should just be a similar case as with the 400x grams i.e. removal of protective layer and reapplication of suitable varnish or whatever is a close match to the original, if that is what it is!
The perspex panel seems to be a different animal - It also has a coating and I am not sure if this can be removed and replenished but I think the only way to find out is to try it on a sacrificial piece first - just be very careful with the panel in general - I always put this and the other delicate bits high up out the way when working on this hifi :)
Anyway I am officially on a little break for a couple days but no doubt I will continue visiting.... :)
Step1: Ok I start by removing the upper panel - 4? slot screws at rear and two hex bolts on the little top switch bank, and two long screws that travel through the wooden surround at the rear. After the rear grill has come away remove the perspex panel. nut as you said for the dial you may have to gently knock that out tapping at bottom shaft... Now for the wooden trim - I think 5 screws (you removed two already!) hold the wooden surround - I tip the center up and the wooden surround drops away and slides off as one piece - The main panel is now loose so be careful! Now the master can be layed down - leave a space in front of about 5". The switch panel can now be removed and flipped over, wires still attached mind! The PCB's are held on by some small grub screws and a metal bar. After removal of the boards the front panel is now free :) Watch out for the black spacers even if they remain try pulling each off as the glue will be weak and this is why the keys spring up - you will have to set up a little jig to re-glue these if they come away quite simple bridge if we need to get to that! Will look forward to seeing any reconditioned panel Leslie. As far as I know it should just be a similar case as with the 400x grams i.e. removal of protective layer and reapplication of suitable varnish or whatever is a close match to the original, if that is what it is! The perspex panel seems to be a different animal - It also has a coating and I am not sure if this can be removed and replenished but I think the only way to find out is to try it on a sacrificial piece first - just be very careful with the panel in general - I always put this and the other delicate bits high up out the way when working on this hifi :) Anyway I am officially on a little break for a couple days but no doubt I will continue visiting.... :)
Oh Olly, thank you so much for taking the effort giving me this little course how to open this beast.
Think I first have to take a deap breath before starting specially because of this remark
"Watch out for the black spacers even if they remain try pulling each off as the glue will be weak and this is why the keys spring up - you will have to set up a little jig to re-glue these if they come away quite simple bridge if we need to get to that!"
When something goes wrong, everything goes wrong, so I think I wait for a little while operating this machine.
I did notice that both panels are coated and I managed to remove the coating from the acrylic panel. Looked terrible before, now it's looking better!
Thanks and enjoy your break
Hi,
For those who didn't see it, there is an excellent feature about the Beolab 5000 in the December 2013 issue of Hifi News and Record Review by none other than Tim Jarman.
And he also reviewed the matching tuner in December 2012.
So there.