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Beomaster 3300 takes about 5 minutes to play

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joerenfield
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joerenfield Posted: Tue, Mar 13 2018 5:24 PM

Hello all,

 

without any special reason my 3300 stopped working correctly. Actually plays through CD/Tape & Phono inputs but after about 5 minutes from turning it on. Radio does sound but noise only also after the same time.

I checked the forum and replaced the two 6800uf capacitors for new ones and checked c67 & c68 also.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks!

Josep

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Tue, Mar 13 2018 5:47 PM

Beocenter 3300 does not have a CD input.
If this is instead a Beomaster 3300, check the voltages from the power supply when cold.
- Ripple frequency in particular.

Martin

joerenfield
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Sorry! Beomaster. Edited!

Dillen:

Beocenter 3300 does not have a CD input.
If this is instead a Beomaster 3300, check the voltages from the power supply when cold.
- Ripple frequency in particular.

Martin

 

Beo_Jean
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Beo_Jean replied on Wed, Mar 14 2018 3:25 PM

Sounds like a cold solder too!

joerenfield
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Any ideas where to search?

Beo_Jean:

Sounds like a cold solder too!

 

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Wed, Mar 14 2018 3:48 PM

joerenfield:

Any ideas where to search?

Did you read/try what I suggested?

Martin

joerenfield
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Hi yes about voltage 24.5v which seems correct, but I don't have the knowledge to check the frequency... :(

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Wed, Mar 14 2018 4:23 PM

Put a scope on the supply rail.

Martin

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Wed, Mar 14 2018 4:44 PM

There's a 5V, a 10,2V, a 15V, a 31,5V, a -33V and two 33V.
Which one measured 24V?

Martin

joerenfield
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I will test again later, I will also search for the bad solder joints.

Dillen:

There's a 5V, a 10,2V, a 15V, a 31,5V, a -33V and two 33V.
Which one measured 24V?

Martin

 

Beo_Jean
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Beo_Jean replied on Wed, Mar 14 2018 5:23 PM

Check the rail providing power to the common failing inputs and start from there.  Weak solder joints are difficult to see, you may just want to redo them.  Especially check the jumpers and piggy connectors...

joerenfield
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I have re-done many suspicious solder joints but no improvement. Seems to slowly be dying. Yesterday 5 minutes and today takes about 15 minutes to play since power on...

Beo_Jean:

Check the rail providing power to the common failing inputs and start from there.  Weak solder joints are difficult to see, you may just want to redo them.  Especially check the jumpers and piggy connectors...

 

joerenfield
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Another question, which would be the modern replacement for the brown capacitors like the one photo? From the service manual they are 22nf 40v but I don't seem to find this values in electrolytic capacitors.


Thanks!

 

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Wed, Mar 14 2018 7:51 PM

What was 22nF in year 1990 is still 22nF,
but I see no brown capacitors in that photo (?)
And unless physically damaged I wouldn't suspect capacitors in that range.

Martin 

joerenfield
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I mean this dark red type.

Can you address me to where I can buy this type of capacitors?

Beo_Jean
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Beo_Jean replied on Thu, Mar 15 2018 12:31 PM

joerenfield:

I mean this dark red type.

Can you address me to where I can buy this type of capacitors?

 

Martin is selling cap kits but you can get replacement from Mouser, Digikey and other places.

Personally, I would use a Nichicon UPW 68uF 63V --> 

UPW1J680MPD1TD

Beo_Jean
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Beo_Jean replied on Thu, Mar 15 2018 12:33 PM

Oh BTW,

Replace all the red caps while you are there, they are nasty!

joerenfield
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Even if technical manual says 22nf?

Thanks!!!

Beo_Jean:

joerenfield:

I mean this dark red type.

Can you address me to where I can buy this type of capacitors?

 

Martin is selling cap kits but you can get replacement from Mouser, Digikey and other places.

Personally, I would use a Nichicon UPW 68uF 63V --> 

UPW1J680MPD1TD

 

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Thu, Mar 15 2018 5:11 PM

joerenfield:

Even if technical manual says 22nf?

Of course not!
- And it doesn't!
2C67 is 68uF - that's the red Roederstein in the power supply - the one visible in the photo.
It's 1C67 that is 22nF - that's in the tuner...

Don't get me wrong, I mean the very best, - and safest, for both you and the Beomaster, but are you sure, repairing this is a task for you?
I have a lot of respect for people wanting to have a go at DIY, but I have even more respect for people realizing when the job is better
left with someone else, - someone with the skills and knowledge to do it right.

Martin

joerenfield
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Thanks!

 

got confused reading the technical manual. Supposed only one C67 was in the Beomaster. I have dismantled it and mounted again about 10 times in the last 6 days... I have the knowledge to soldering and unsoldering components and checking capacitors... Anyway I'm going to give up and buy a new unit, I don't get a clear idea of the problem.

It's a very specific problem but I suppose it can come from anywhere. Was working perfectly 10 days ago! Now each time takes longer to play through CD input and no radio signal, only noise. It takes about 30 minutes. After that the sound is clear and powerful.

 

 

 

Dillen:

joerenfield:

Even if technical manual says 22nf?

Of course not!
- And it doesn't!
2C67 is 68uF - that's the red Roederstein in the power supply - the one visible in the photo.
It's 1C67 that is 22nF - that's in the tuner...

Don't get me wrong, I mean the very best, - and safest, for both you and the Beomaster, but are you sure, repairing this is a task for you?
I have a lot of respect for people wanting to have a go at DIY, but I have even more respect for people realizing when the job is better
left with someone else, - someone with the skills and knowledge to do it right.

Martin

 

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