ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
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Hi All,
Few weeks ago I bought BeoSound 9000. I bought it as faulty (does not power up) and my intention is to make it fully operational (so good intentions I guess). It is such a beautiful piece of electronic that scrapping it would be just a shame.
This particular CD player apparently went thru number of people who tried to fix it but they didn’t succeed. I guess I’m next one in the line here. Just to be clear I’m an electronic engineer by profession and I hope this helps here.
Version of BeouSound 9000 I bought is:
Mark II
Type no: 2563
Inside there a firmware version: A2 SW 2.0 8343406
It is 110V version that someone swapped mains transformed to the 230V version.
I manage to find schematic for Mark III version and this is what I’m using for my debug. So far majority of components and connections matches this schematic. I found some differences in interconnectivity around main processor only.
I went thru Mark III schematic and after some time I discover that main relay does not engage (hence player would not start). I short transistor (TR17) that enables main relay (RL1) and this brought some live to the player. Here is what I manage to observe:
- Using main keyboard I can:
o Enable and control radio (fully working including RDS, I can hear audio thru headphones)
o Enable and control clock (looks like fully working),
o Control all sound parameters (balance, volume, bass, treble, loudness). I got access to all of those controls after shorting pin 4 and pin 2 on speaker Powerlink connector.
o When in CD player mode, player behaves randomly. If particular sequence of events is followed I was even able to play CD. It is not robust thou. Sledge does not move as expected. When hitting end it still tries to pull sledge (end sensor works and I can see REFERNCE POSITION signal from END STOP DETECTOR reaching P55 on PCB35 (Motor Control). It is like motor processor ignores the signal?
- I have Beo4 that I attempted to use to control CD player but without success. I did follow suggestions on this forum: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/13714.aspx?PageIndex=1&PageIndex=1 but CD player does not respond to commands from remote.
o I did get to the P14 connector on PCB34 where I measure pin 3. I could see that IR receiver picks up signal from remote but for some reason microprocessor ignores it. Since I can get access to Volume controls in the player (balance, volume, bass, treble, loudness) and pins 2 and 4 on Powerlink are shorted I assume player should respond to remote controller.
So I’m starting to hit the wall and would much appreciate help and suggestions from more experience people.
One of my questions would be, what firmware in BeoSound checks (after power up) before it enables relay RL1 using transistor TR17 that is controlled by IC7 (on Power Supply PCB4 board)?
Maybe clue that would answer why CD player does not won’t to start is there? Maybe main microprocessor performs some sort of check-up sequence and since something does not work it stops? If I remove short that enables RL1 I can only get main red LED blinking slowly (CD player does not respond to any button at all).
Another question would be regarding any suggestions how I could debug it further.
Is there a chance that there is some issue with firmware code itself?
Am I facing here, buying new PCB35 (Motor Control) or PCB34 (Power Supply)?
Thanks for your time and appreciate any help.
Cheers,
Henryk
If there is no powerlink speakers connected to the BS9000, it will go into option 0 by default, which means no IR reception. In the service manual there is a section describing how to make a dummy PL connector that will simulate a speaker.
Regarding the sledge. If the big tacho wheel is very dusty, it cannot detect when at how fast the sledge is running, so make sure that is clean(be carefull not to bend it) It is in the middle of the unit, you cannot miss it.
Also, if the laser is not working anymore, then it can also do funny stuff, and last, it the glass is not attached, it can only run slow.
/Jacob
This is a tricky one.
Some months ago I got the request to transform a BS9000 from 110V to 220V I suggested to order the european version of the mains transformer, but it left at the request and they thought that the could achieve the conversion without swapping. So, just curios where this unit comes from.
The powersupply from a BS9000 is a clever one and tricky.
I would start to check a few things first. What partnumber does the transformer have. Check is there is a steady 100hz signal behind the 2 small diodes L4148 just next to the main bridge rectifier. If there is, the software expects still a 120hz signal as it might be an US softwareversion. So start with an european version of the software. (haven't checked where the 2563 is sold)
The relay switches between 2 different setting at the primary side of the transformer. When no action is needed from the player it sets the secundairy to a lower voltage than when needed. If the BS9000 is brought into functionality, then the transoformer gives a higher secundary voltage.
In standby the rectified voltage should be around 16V, brought into action it should be somewhere between 25-30V.
If you get it into servicemode check the frequency testmode.You can safely take out the ribbon cable between PCB 34 and 35.The relay should always click, even when the device has a power problem (part of the routine).
Beobuddy: (haven't checked where the 2563 is sold)
(haven't checked where the 2563 is sold)
That's a US version Mk II
MediaBobNY: Beobuddy: (haven't checked where the 2563 is sold) That's a US version Mk II
Ok.
I've checked at several software ic's and they are also stamped with 8343406 on it (manual mentions different partnumber, but that happens often)
I happen to have the 2.2 software which also has 8343406 on it. That's normal.
So, that leaves the lack of the 100hz signal or still a transformer problem.
Hi Guys,
First of all I really appreciate your time and help here. Thanks for it.
Now to your notes:
Weebyx:
1. Remote controller.
I thought I made dummy connection (short between pin 4 and pin 2 on speaker Powerlink connector) but obviously what I did didn’t work. So I finally connected one of my BeoLab 8000 speakers and voila – Remote controller is working! Thanks for repeating this suggestion. Progress already :)
2. Tacho wheel on sledge motor looks rather clean. For now I’m not going to touch it. Let see how it goes with other ideas. Thanks for suggestion though.
3. At some point in time I manage to play CD (and hear sound) so I think laser should be OK (at least partially).
4. I came across information that when glass is not attached sledge will run slow. I do expect that. I did confirm that bottom prism (for hand protection when glass is closed and sledge run fast) emits infrared light (which is good).
Beobuddy:
1. I bought this BeoSound 9000 from someone in Ireland. I think person who was selling knew that this is good device but they didn’t have know-how how to fix it.
2. Regarding transformer I can confirm that model installed inside BeoSound is: 8013551 99/39. If I look at Bang-Olufsen-Beosound_9000_Mk3-Service-Manual, page 52 I can find information as below:
90T1 8013551 Transformer 230V f/type 2571, 2572, 2577, 2580
This convinced me that this is right transformer for European 230V mains.
3. I can confirm that there is 100Hz signal present at the cathode side of D2 and D46.
4. I measured voltage at the C4 (just after rectifier).
a. In standby state (when LED is just blinking and BeoSound exhibits no life) it is around +13V.
b. When I force main relay (RL1) to engage (short TR17) voltage at C4 ramps up to around +35V
Would you consider this being outside of speck? They are according to your suggestions and schematic notes.
5. Since thanks to Weebyx I got my Beo4 to interact with BeoSound. Based on description in Bang-Olufsen-Beosound_9000_Mk3-Service-Manual, page 69 I can only enter test modes from standby. This is a problem since there is no stand-by per say at the moment. BeoSound is dead (when I do not force RL1) or is half-operational when I do force RL1. Any suggestions here?
BTW, Beobuddy, can you point me to right test that you called “frequency testmode”
MediaBobNY:
1. Correct 2563 is US version. On main unit label (under keyboard) it clearly states 120V. What is interesting it also states 50-60Hz. It would imply that both 50Hz and 60Hz mains are fine for it (just thinking loud here).
1. To your suggestion about lack of 100Hz. I guess you mean lack of 120Hz, right? If that is the case how this plays with statements on main label that unit is compatible with 120V and 50-60Hz?
I should have some signal generator handy tomorrow. If that happens I might apply 120Hz between R7 and R47 and see if that makes any difference to power-up sequence.
2. What do you think about rectifier output being at +13V in standby and +35V in operational state? Do you think there might be an issue with transformer? When I measure voltage straight from the transformer (at P17) I get 26V AC which is as expected, right?
3. Any suggestions how to get into test mode menu in current state of BeoSound? Wold that help with anything anyway?
Again, thanks for your time and great help here. Much appreciated.
Quick update on my side. I manage to:
- Provide external power supply to the input of rectifier (disconnect main transformer and connect external power supply)
- Connect generator to the inverted input of IC2 (op-amp LM393).
With setup like that I manage to confirm, that when input voltage is set to ~18V (~16V after rectifier) and:
- 100Hz signal is not present at the IC2 inverted input BeoSound will not start.
- 100Hz signal is present at the IC2 inverted input BeoSound will start.
- 120Hz signal is present at the IC2 inverted input BeoSound will start.
- Once BeoSound starts and I remove 100Hz/120Hz signal player will power down.
This proves to me that 100Hz circuitry works fine for both 100Hz and 120Hz inputs frequencies.
In any case though RL1 will not engage and that is main problem in my opinion. Whatever I do, I cannot get RL1 engage by BeoSound itself. It’s like there is something else that prevent this from happening. I didn’t probe RELAY ON signal yet (output from IC7 (4094) on PCB34. It is not easy to access it.
Three things:
1. Any advice what else would prevent RELAY ON signal from turning ON would be great. Maybe there is some handshake between motor processor (IC2 on PCB35) and main microcomputer? Just guessing.
2. Can someone confirm that in order to move BeoSound into test mode I have to follow sequence as below?
a. Move BeoSound into Stand-by mode
b. Set Beo4 controller into RADIO or CD mode.
c. Add SHIFT button in Beo4.
d. Press LIST button until SHIFT appears on Beo4 screen
e. Press Go
f. Press 9 then 0 then 2 then 5 then 6
At this stage BeoSound should display TM_and_number and I should be able to move between test modes, right?
3. Main transformer wiring.
Can someone confirm that wiring on the primary side of main transformer is correct? What I can see inside the box is what is in attached photo. With this wiring I measure on the AC output of the transformer:
o 10.7V (AC) when RL1 relay is not engaged
o 26V (AC) when RL1 relay is engaged (manually by me)
As always thanks for your time and help. Much appreciated,
Hi,
The testseqence is 9 0 2 5 8
You only need a working 5Volt powerrail behind the regulator.
Discconnect the ribbon cable if you suspect the motorcontrolboard. You still should have a burning standbyled.
The relay only switches during the setup routine a few seconds and then switches off again.
Try removing the eprom with it's settings. Just leave the software in it's place. Try again.
The CD4094 sometimes becomes defective. Check whether pin 12 comes up a few seconds after switching the powerbutton on.
Hi Beobuddy and All,
There is a progress. I think we won the battle but war is not over yet.
After a bit of tinkering around I finally manage to locate broken transistor TR17 (on PCB34). This is the one that powers main relay switch. I know it sounds obvious.
Anyway, with new transistor now I can:
- Fully control BeoSound with Beo4.
- Radio works fine,
- Clock and audio settings works fine,
- I can turn into CD player mode and:
o Sledge will not move if I select any of CD positions. I can see that when sledge is located in position 1 then mechanism tries to pull even further for a second or two and then gives up (it’s like some over current sensor kicks in or some sort of timeout routine).
o When CD is loaded into position 1 then - some time - I can get CD to play (can hear sound). Other time CD won’t start spinning (I can see that mechanisms tries to start – small movements) and BeoSound will shut down itself after 10..20 seconds.
o When sledge is at different position than 1 CD will not play at all. I think this is intentional and it proves that end detector (hall detector located on PCB9 works.
Here are some extra information from BeoSound test modes:
1. After executing TM 23 I got:
a. App 2.0
b. Link 1.6
c. Motor 2.1
d. Tuner 1.3
e. CD X.XXX
Could that imply that someone changed CD laser?
2. Should I expect something to see on the display other than CD FOCUS ON when I execute TM61? I just see this statement and that’s it.
3. When I turn on TM67 (The CD starts playing) I get error CD ERROR 2
4. When I turn on TM 73 (adjustment of autopositioning) I get CD ERROR 2
When I check what CD error means it looks like “Focus error. The CD could not focus within the time limit”
Would that point to a wrong/broken laser? If so, would wrong laser have anything to do with blocking ability for sledge to move? Any hints here are more than welcome.
Again thanks for your time guys. It is much appreciated,
I’ve done a bit more reading and tinkering around with BeoSound.
1. I discovered that when I keep glass door open, sledge move as it supposed to which is great.
2. I discovered that when I move BeoSound into test mode and switch to CD and then execute test mode TM23 I can read back CD 2.0
Points:
1. When I turn on TM67 (The CD starts playing) I get error CD ERROR 2
2. When I turn on TM73 (adjustment of autopositioning) I get CD ERROR 2
Are still valid.
Should I expect something to see on the display other than CD FOCUS ON when I execute TM61? I just see this statement and that’s it.
Should I just go ahead and start looking for new laser or could there potentially be another issue here? For example, could broken cable between sledge and main PCB cause laser to not be able to focus (I doubt). Is it worth trying to clean laser/lens?
Thanks,
mhenryk: Normal 0 false false false EN-GB X-NONE X-NONE Hi All, I’ve done a bit more reading and tinkering around with BeoSound. 1. I discovered that when I keep glass door open, sledge move as it supposed to which is great. 2. I discovered that when I move BeoSound into test mode and switch to CD and then execute test mode TM23 I can read back CD 2.0 Points: 1. When I turn on TM67 (The CD starts playing) I get error CD ERROR 2 2. When I turn on TM73 (adjustment of autopositioning) I get CD ERROR 2 Are still valid. When I check what CD error means it looks like “Focus error. The CD could not focus within the time limit” Should I expect something to see on the display other than CD FOCUS ON when I execute TM61? I just see this statement and that’s it. Should I just go ahead and start looking for new laser or could there potentially be another issue here? For example, could broken cable between sledge and main PCB cause laser to not be able to focus (I doubt). Is it worth trying to clean laser/lens? Thanks, Henryk
Focus Error = dead laser, so start looking, but be aware, that there are no "cheap" versions for MK3 and MK2 units that has been upgraded. You will 99% sure need to buy a new from B&O, and since they do not sell them as parts anymore, it gets a bit more difficult.
You can try BeoBuddy on this site, he has once helped get a new MK3 laser.
If your unit has the CDM12.4 laser, you can find versions on ebay that will work 93% of the time. The MK3 version I have bought has worked 0% of the time, so dont waste your money.
/Weebyx
yes ..aggree
if any one on these forum than BeoBuddy can help you!
You can send the complete cd transport mechanism,ie,the laser carriage inc disc motor and sledge drive motor etc,to a specialist repairer here in the U.K.
He will replace the laser with the correct type and check the operation of the mech too.
I've sent several mech's for repair in the past of all B&O types,and had no problems with their function.
e.mail me for details.
Nick
Henryk,
please read the topic "CD Not Playing on Beosound 9000" to have some idea on laser cleaning/replacing.
Thanks for all advises. Much appreciated. Looks like laser is where I should focus my attention now. Once I make some time to look at CD drive I'll check which laser is fitted and take it form there.
Just out of curiosity.
What kind of behaviour should I expect when I execute test mode 61 (Focus ON)? Should CD spin during that test? If I remove CD and execute TM61 I can see laser lens moving up and down. I guess the point of this test is to find right level for this lens, right?
When I execute test mode 63 (stat turntable motor) CD starts to spin at very high speed. I think this is expected since I can’t complete TM 61, right?
Just for completeness, one more questions and observation.
When I stat to play CD (in normal operation) it starts to spin at very high speed (like in TM63) and then after few seconds stops and display shows CD 1 PAUSE. Would this be typical behaviour with broken laser? (I think yes, based on topic "CD Not Playing on Beosound 9000" but just want to mention it here).
When I move sledge from one CD to another I notice that angular position of CD is no longer preserved. Would this be typical with broken laser?
I thought there are separate blocks that look after CD position based on IR TACHO information that is collected by 3 infrared beams (PCB 30 IR Tacho Clamber Tx and PCB31 IR Tacho Clamper Rx) that are controlled/collected by PCB22 (Clamper Position). Could their operation be somehow interfered by broken laser and CD motor spinning very fast (uncontrollably)?
What I’m trying to rule out here is potential problem with CD motor (or its controller) instead with CD laser itself.
As always appreciate your time and help here,
In my experience with 9000's, fitting a new laser would cure a multitude of "apparent " sins. However, I go back to the days when it was possible to get a replacement kit complete from B&O.
Regards Graham
joeyboygolf: In my experience with 9000's, fitting a new laser would cure a multitude of "apparent " sins. However, I go back to the days when it was possible to get a replacement kit complete from B&O.
Exactly.
First place to start is by getting the laser fixed so the cd player is working. A lot of the sledge and TM "bugs" will most likely sort itself out then.
Since the unit in question is an MKII, he could be lucky that it is the CDPRO2 or alike, which used the CDM12.4 laser. They are available on a certain auction site quite easily.
Quick update from my side. I did more unscrewing of my BeoSound 9000 and I got to the CD laser module. It looks like in the photo below.
When I zoom in on a label I can read VAM 1205 (photo below)
If I correctly read comments on other forums
VAM 1205 = CDM 12.4.
Is this a correct statement?
If answer is yes, then based on your comments guys there is a chance to fix this module with eBay laser, right?
If answer to that one is also yes, would you guys advice trusted seller and correct component?
If answers to statements above are no then my best bet would be, based on comments from solderon29 to go with UK based repair house http://av-repairs.com/cd-laser-repair
Please share your suggestions.
Thanks for your help and time,
mhenryk: Normal 0 false false false EN-GB X-NONE X-NONE Hi All, Quick update from my side. I did more unscrewing of my BeoSound 9000 and I got to the CD laser module. It looks like in the photo below. When I zoom in on a label I can read VAM 1205 (photo below) If I correctly read comments on other forums VAM 1205 = CDM 12.4. Is this a correct statement? If answer is yes, then based on your comments guys there is a chance to fix this module with eBay laser, right? If answer to that one is also yes, would you guys advice trusted seller and correct component? If answers to statements above are no then my best bet would be, based on comments from solderon29 to go with UK based repair house http://av-repairs.com/cd-laser-repair Please share your suggestions. Thanks for your help and time, Henryk
I have bought quite a few 12.4 lasers here. I think 1 did not work of the many I bought, they just send me a new one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-VAM1204-CDM12-4-05-Genuine-NEW-Laser-Head-Lens-optical-pick-ups/173286221909?hash=item2858a9e855:g:zawAAOSwCmRa32Lc
I really don't know if they actually are "new" as they state. But they have worked for me.
Before doing anything else, try one of those.
Hi Jacob and All,
Thanks for your suggestion. I’ve ordered laser from that gentleman and finally manage to make time to replace the laser. After this procedure looks like BeoSound 9000 is back to good shape.
This is all thanks to your suggestions. Thanks guys for your time and help.
One last question:
Would you recommend to put any sort of grease/lubricant on any mechanical parts or should I simply remove any visible dust and close the box?
Hi everyone,
Sorry to resurrect an old thread here, but I think it is worthwhile since my problem is so similar.
My Beosound 9000 has a solid red light, doesn't respond to any button presses or remote commands apart from eject, which does open the glass lid (and yes I've shorted the correct pins in the speaker connectors).
After reading Henryk's experiences here, I checked out TR17 - sure enough it was dead. I replaced it and powered up - i briefly heard the relay click, and then a high pitched rising whine sound. The relay clicked off again and the new transistor i had soldered in at TR17 was dead.
From looking at the schematic, I can only assume that IC7 - a 4094B is faulty and drawing too much power, though i cannot find any obvious shorts on the line. I also cannot find any replacements for this chip, apart from one listing on ebay from china (2 month delivery). I have checked C47 and R82, no shorts or problems there.
Can anyone lend me their wisdom?
Many thanks,
P
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The TR17 power up RL1 only. If it got burned straight away maybe there is an issue with that relay itself?
If you see red LED on it means you have 5V in the system. When relay switched then output of T1 changed its voltage to higher one (ff I remember correctly). Maybe this pushed 5V domain to higher level and that in turns burned TR17?
Power supply for Beosound 9000 is quite tricky. Be patience with it. It operates differently in standby and differently in normal operation mode. For now focus on components around transformant and D1 rectifier.
BTW, PSU will not start without 100Hz from mains. Also you have to have glass panel in place and do not block IR beam if you want to check operation of the unit.
Regarding 4094B. I think this suspicion might be a bit premature. If you still think that this IC is faulty you can by one from any electronic shops for few cents: https://www.mouser.ie/Semiconductors/Logic-ICs/Counter-Shift-Registers/_/N-55d4h?P=1z0z44d&Keyword=4094B&FS=True For now though, focus on power supply itself. Maybe start from examining main components and the try to see if voltages are right with new TR17 but most of the circuitry disabled from PSU board.
Thanks a lot for your reply and help mate.
I can't imagine how a relay would burn it up? It's not like it can draw too much current, just open or closed right? Unless you're suggesting the 5V line could be shorted to a higher voltage line?
I actually didn't realise you need the glass in place for operation, the manual suggests just having the hinge in the 'upright' position is enough. Where is the IR beam exactly?
I will hold off on ordering a replacement 4094B based on your suggestions! Unfortunately the one you have linked is the one i ordered, which, while being the correct chip, is the wrong shape and structure. The one in this ebay link is the only one i've found which matches the one in the B&O - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10PCS-HEF4094BTS-118-IC-SHIFT-STORE-REGISTER-16SSOP-HEF4094-4094-HEF4094B-4094B/192826558856?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3D11e4bc949ad74b8b820b5e7dba724600%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D192826558856%26itm%3D192826558856&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507
Thanks again for all your help.
You are correct with your assumption. Relay transistor can be burned in case when there is a short in the relay (unlikely) or voltage that is applied to the relay is too high (probably).
Follow Beobuddy suggestion (earlier in this tread) and first remove ribbon cables (that power other blocks) from the power supply unit. That way potentially you can limit collateral damage.
Then install new transistor and try to power up unit again. This time though power it thru old school light bulb in series on the mains side. Basically something like that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YWqWabXdbo
For unit that is fine you should see bulb lights up during start up and then light will go away when current draw is small. If there is an issue with your unit (which we suspect it is), light most likely will light up and stay on. This should prevent relay transistor from burring up again and might give you chance to check voltages after transformer. They will be lower compare to operation without light bulb and they should be lower (if there is an issue with power supply) compare to schematic numbers due to light bulb on the primary side of transformer. If relay stays on, using voltmeter go around board checking voltages. Looks for animalities at the regulator outputs.
Focus on power supply first. Once you figure out what is wrong with it, you can move to other blocks and then having glass panel on or remembering about hinges up is important. IR beam is in front of CD compartment (two glass-like triangles in the corner of CD compartment).
Yes, hold of will replacements for now. You might ended up with longer shopping list than just 4094B.
Good luck,
Thanks a lot for this, I'm afraid I am no further forward.
I changed the transistor and powered it up using the lightbulb method you laid out. The lightbulb behaved normally and went down again after the unit started up. The relay transistor seems fine now, I have started it without the lightbulb connected and the transistor seems fine - perhaps the first replacement i got was faulty.
I have my 5v and 12v lines, yet the device does nothing. I've tried operating it with the glass lid installed, and i've shorted the pins in the DIN sockets too. All that happens is the red light flashes for a moment and then goes solid red, after about 30 seconds the relay clicks and i stop reading 5vac on TR17 and instead read 5vdc. The eject button works in that it lifts the glass lid. If i free up the sledge's movement using the gear underneath it - it goes rigid again once power flows, so it's doing something there. While on, the relay clicks every minute or so and the unit sort of 'resets', going breifly back to the flashing red light and the sledge moving a tiny bit.
Nothing comes up on screen, remote buttons do nothing, buttons on device do nothing aside from Eject.
Would really appreciate any help anyone can give. I've tried following the flow chart in the B&O manual, but my problem doesn't seem to be covered by it - it seems to assume that if one has a red light they will also have display.
Thanks again.
Hi to all,
I´ve suffered from the same problem in last week, Stand by issue take control of my BS9000 MK3, after some tries to figure out the problem i´ve come here and found this Post. I´m a sound technician and not from electronic even had any formation in this area, so this post "saved my life" , first i´ve measured the 2 fuses on PCB34 and they were OK, so i gone forward to TR17, it was painful to me to get the PCB out to be true, behind a dinner table with my two very young kids always taking my attention (I took advantage that my wife gone to hairdresser and i don´t hear "again around and fixing B&O old stuff"), with Board off i saw that the transistor is bellow a processor (i´ve looked dozen of times to Schematic and never noticed that to be true), with Processor out i´ve measure the transistor with multimeter and seems all has it should, but after all that work i´ve insisted to substitute anyway, result... my BS9000 is back on life!!
Two reasons to come here again. First of all to thank to Henryk from sharing is knowledge! Many Thanks, really! Second reason, to talk a little about the pre-symptoms of the Player:
Thanks once again
Hugo
Thanks a lot for sharing your experience Hugo!
I'm afraid I am no further forward with mine. Does anyone have any ideas of what I could check next? Symptoms are...
Red light, but not turning on - have replaced TR17 twice.
Thanks a lot in advance.
Thanks a lot for sharing Hugo!
I still haven't gotten there with mine :(.
Can anyone help?
Symptoms are - Red Light, no power beyond that, except that eject button DOES open glass lid. I've replaced TR17 twice, to no avail.
Thanks so much in advance.
Sorry to read that!You could have a bigger problem, maybe the Main MicroComputer is faulty (8000513) . If you have access to some official B&O service they probably and easily can check that possibility.Hope to hear some good news from your BS9000 soon!
Regards
Hugo,
Great to hear that this forum helped you but I can’t take all the credit. We both got there thanks to comments left by other people. It is perfect example of team work in action. I hope your wife and kids appreciate BS9000 working again :)
passmore,
Sorry to hear that you are still far from getting BeoSound up and running.
To be honest my knowledge about fixing such unit is limited to just one that I worked on. I’m sure there are people there with much more expertise. With that in mind, I can offer few more suggestions from my side:
- Check and confirm all voltages in power supply unit. Compare numbers to the schematic one and make sure they do match.
- Make sure that unit you have is for correct region. Its PSU expects 100Hz for regions where mains are 50Hz and 120Hz for regions where mains are 60Hz
- Try 9000 with sledge motor driver PCB disconnected from PSU board. Maybe issue is with motor bridge transistors or some control circuitry around them? Maybe this is the reason why unit resets itself after ~30 seconds?
- Follow Hugo suggestion. If I’m not mistaking it is possible to start 9000 without firmware EEPROM installed. If this is the case, maybe try it? Pull out EEPROM and try to start the unit without it. Maybe this will make some difference to the overall operation and that way point you to faulty firmware EEPROM IC or its content.
- There are people on eBay who offer service of BS9000. It is costly and it is basically giving up on your side but it is another option I guess.
That is all that comes to my mind I’m afraid.
Hi Henryk,
apologies for reviving your old thread. Just wondering if your unit pcb 34 still have the same F1 and F2 125v fusses or were they changed out to 250v ones when the trafo were replaced with 230V version. Elvis
Hi Elvis,
To be perfectly honest, I’m not sure but reading service manual for Beosound 9000, they do recommend different fuses depending on type. Not sure though if type implies particular mains power rating or is it about power supply configuration. You will have to study UM a bit to get there.
Sorry I could not be of much more help here. It was quite some time ago…
Hello!
First, sorry for my english.
I red all your story with the Beosound 9000 problems..because i have a similar problem now with my Beosound 9000 MK1.
The ideea is that I.m trying to find the TR17 location..because i think this might be my problem ( When i power up my Beosound the red button is lighting, then i hear the relay click and the the red button is turning off..all this in 3-4 second, and then is cycling..again and again...and the equipment don't start )
And , with a friend of mine electronist, i am trynig to change the TR17 transisto..but i can't find it!
If you can tell me where to look..i would appreciate this very much.
Thank you!
Catalin.
PS: i am new in the beoworld forum..dont have much experience here.