ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
How do I fix this?
I have moderate repair skills can unscrew open up and use solder line, can change components, belts, bulbs etc
For changing the speed, the idler wheel has to move on its shaft. There is a lifting arm, that might be worn out at the tip.
Chris
Seized or badly adjusted speed change mechs.Missing part in mech.Incorrect belt.Any combination of the above.
Not a lot of electronics in there. It's all mechanical.
Martin
I'm good at mechanical stuff but what is a mech?
Mech - mechanism?
Shall I open it up and post a photo?
G7Trader: I'm good at mechanical stuff but what is a mech?
Mech=mechanism = mechanicals.The parts that together makes a more complex machinery work by performing each their small function.
......
We can't see if something has seized or not by looking at a photo.But it's not THAT complex.Watch what happens when you change the speed.The idler wheel is supposed to jump up and down the steps on the motor bushing.I'm sure, that you can see how it's supposed to work and why right now it doesn't.
Is it safe to open the top cover plug into mains then press the buttons and see which one is not moving correctly?
Is the voltage on those boards above 24V?
If my hand slips and i touch an electrical board will i die? Lolz
I seen guys open up their stuff and connect to mains on youtube I'm getting more skilled and moving in this direction.....
Well all electronics is safe to operate when it's open - as long as you keep your hands well away when it's turned on! Seriously though, if you're watching mechanical bits of a hifi moving there's little reason to be touching it anyway. Turn it on at the mains, press play, see what it does, watch it fail and turn it off before you touch it again. If you're that concerned maybe wear some gloves or film it on a phone for reviewing again afterwards.
I'm always way more concerned with the low-voltage level chip based electronics, the thought that I could get a static charge from the carpet and fry something accidentally is way more concerning than a moderate level shock from a capacitor discharging on me!
What got me way more confident about running open systems was laptops. It's such a pain to close them up that if you're fixing/replacing something it's easier to just become comfortable with turning them on when they're naked than spending 10 minutes reassembling it, only to maybe have to take everything apart again if you've not plugged a cable in properly.
You cannot take off the top cover. Beogram 1202 has all the business going on on its top so the majority of serviced is done from below.This makes it a bit akward to watch what happens backstage, because it will only function correctly in normal position, horizontal or at least close to horizontal , but raise it up on two thick pieces of wood, stacks of large books or similar and look in from below.
There are no circuit boards inside. There are no electronics to speak off. A simple diode and a capacitor, that you cannot touch because they sit inside the start relay.
There are no low-voltage parts. No transformer. Not even a fuse!It's all mechanical.
I understand that you haven't already opened it and looked inside.But why. now that you are so worried, haven't you googled the model to see what it looks like below decks?
- Or just looked around at Beoworld:https://archivedarchivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/41665.aspx
Hi,
I like to observe how the pulley/belt work from the top too.
I remove the platter and use five D-type big batteries instead to compensate. Don’t try to make the Beogram work without its platter : the belt will slip.
Jacques
Hello,
I came across the same issue with my Beogram 1202. I'm not skilled in lots of repairing but I did found out what the issue was in my case.
You can see the cog (idler wheel) with the rubber band sitting agains this gold plated pin (stepped pulley screw?) on the left. The pin is being turned around by the motor, but somehow the cog won't turn when it's against it in 33rpm mode, but it does turn in 45rpm mode. Maybe it needs a new rubber band? Or at least find a way to get him to sit tighter against the pin, and keeping it that way even when I change speeds. I'm not sure yet on how, but when I find a fix I'll post it here.