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ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022
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This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022

 

Beogram CD 7000 overhaul

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ruir
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ruir Posted: Wed, Mar 7 2012 5:37 PM

 

Grettings

 

I'm new at Beoworld and B&O Smile

I bought a CD 7000 and i want do a overhaul on it. I like the aesthetic and i read it have an good implementation of the TDA1541A chip.

It works although not flawlessly Tongue Tied I noticed the disc spinning after turning it off...

There are several threads about modding/overhaul this model and his older brothers but i can find them now, only cached in the Google. I understood:

- that is need good cleaning and lube in the CD tray rails,

- change the LM 833N OP-AMPS. Maybe with OPA 2132, AD823 or AD712,

- change the C2103 33uf 16v axial blue Philips capacitor with another  axial blue Philips 47uf capacitor,

- change C111/211 22uf 10v with WIMA MKS-2-5 10uf 10v

- C2159 1.5uf 25v with WIMA MKS-2-5 1.5uf 25v

- C2104/2107 47uf 25v with 100uf 25v Low ESR capacitors.

Thinking in replace all electrolytic capacitors i founded, 23 in the main board and 6 in the power board, with fresh ones with the same capacitance and at least with the same voltage rating. There are two i dont know if i should replace because the case looks different: Tongue Tied

- C13 4700uf 25v ROE

- C18 2200uf 25v ROE

 

Any thought/remark would be great Cool

Regards

 

Rui

 

 

tournedos
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Welcome Rui!

The only thing you need to do is replace C2103, and even that only if the deck has problems playing a record.

But while you're in there, it makes sense to replace the power supply filter caps on the same board (C2104/2107 on your list) AND C2136/2140 and perhaps the C2159. Do not touch the adjustments unless you are sure of what you are doing - too easy to kill the laser!

Replacing the opamps goes to territory that I personally don't believe much in - LM833 was a good audio op-amp, and it is generally accepted that the B&O engineers knew what they were doing when they designed these decks. But as I recall they are in DIP cases so not too difficult to replace - if you want to do it, I'm sure OPA 2132 (or 2134, specialized for audio applications) is a good choice.

I don't think replacing C111/211 with a value half the original can be a good idea, it might limit the low end of the frequency response. Perhaps just replace them with good quality fresh electrolytics of original value.

The rest - including the big power supply caps C13 and C18 - I would just leave alone unless they are faulty. There's always the chance of messing something up during the work, and very little or no benefits to expect.

Cleaning the tray rails is a good idea if it seems to move at all sluggishly. Dillen can supply you with a correct new belt for the tray motor if needed.

--mika

ruir
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ruir replied on Thu, Mar 8 2012 9:30 AM

Thank you mika for helping out. It was appreciated Smile

Probably should be better leave the LM 833 in place as they are soldered to the board and not in cases and the money in my pockets don't burn...

C13 and C18 i will leave them as they are, the others ones, hmmm, i'm strongly inclined to replace them, and yes with their original capacitance.

Regards

 

Rui

 

 

joeyboygolf
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I "overhaul" the CD servo board on every CD player that I sell.

I used to change all the electrolytics but I now change C2103 only ( for reliability ) as changing the others was not making a jot of difference.

In most cases, the headlong rush to change components, especiallly capacitors, is dictated by forum fashion and not by necessity!

Regards Graham

ruir
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ruir replied on Thu, Mar 8 2012 12:09 PM

Thank you Graham. That's why i asked, so much info and sometimes contradictory that a newbie like me founds himself lost Embarrassed

Definitely i have a problem... the CD player after turning it off starts to spin backwards at a higher speed than when reading :(   

Regards

Rui

chartz
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chartz replied on Thu, Mar 8 2012 1:10 PM

joeyboygolf:

I "overhaul" the CD servo board on every CD player that I sell.

I used to change all the electrolytics but I now change C2103 only ( for reliability ) as changing the others was not making a jot of difference.

In most cases, the headlong rush to change components, especiallly capacitors, is dictated by forum fashion and not by necessity!

My little experience : http://archivedarchivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/9684.aspx?PageIndex=4

Jacques

joeyboygolf
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ruir:

Definitely i have a problem... the CD player after turning it off starts to spin backwards at a higher speed than when reading :(   

I have not seen this fault on a stacking system CD5500, 6500, 7000 type and I have sold upwards of 50 examples.

However, I have seen this fault on the Beocenter 9500 types and it would appear to be associated with the interface board rather than the servo board. I assume this because changing the interface board has cured the fault in all cases!!

I admit that I have not got to the real cause having tried extensively with varying results. From experience, temperature is involved somehow as I have solved the problem only for it to re-appear when warm.

Perhaps Dillen or Die Bogener will be able to shed light on the problem.

Regards Graham

joeyboygolf
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Ely, Cambridgeshire, UK
Posts 4,188
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chartz:

joeyboygolf:

I "overhaul" the CD servo board on every CD player that I sell.

I used to change all the electrolytics but I now change C2103 only ( for reliability ) as changing the others was not making a jot of difference.

In most cases, the headlong rush to change components, especiallly capacitors, is dictated by forum fashion and not by necessity!

My little experience : http://archivedarchivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/9684.aspx?PageIndex=4

I am afraid that the "noisy" cd mechanism is a new one on me so I am unable to comment.

 

Regards Graham

ruir
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ruir replied on Mon, Mar 26 2012 8:47 AM

Hi.

 

Thank you all. I sorted it... well i think i did. I ended replacing all electrolytic caps i could find with the exception of the 1.5uf non polar (ordered a wrong one) and the CD player still work Big Smile  Initially in the first days it reproduced the spinning problem a couple of times but now, two weeks later, it is working flawlessly. Don't know why but it's fine Cool so thank you all for the help given Wink

Best regards

Rui

 

 

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