ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Does anyone know what the different type numbers mean for the Beogram 4002 - there seem to be a few - mine is a 5511
The quick and short answer is the type is kind of like a model number. In the case of the Beogram 4002 the outside appearance is pretty much the same between type numbers. There are subtle outward differences such as the lettering on the control panel. In the case of the Beomaster 6000 and the Beocord 5000 it is a different story where the difference in type number is a huge difference in the actual unit.
The early Beogram 4002 type numbers 5501 - 5503 have an AC motor for the platter motor. The platter is a heavy, single platter. The types after 5503 have a DC platter motor and a two piece platter system. There are also a number of electronic control differences that go along with those.
I have several Beogram 4002 types and when fully restored I think they all work equally as well. Interestingly B&O decided to change the model number to 4004 for the type 5526. The 4004 looks pretty much the same as the 4002 turntables though.
There is also the Beogram 6000 which originally looks (outwardly) identical to the 4002. Then there is a Beogram 6000 Type 5751 which is a radial arm style turntable. Not to be confused with the Beogram 6002 and 6006 which look like the Beogram 800x turntable. All rather confusing but demonstrates the importance using the type when referencing various B&O products.
The 4004 is really a different model to the 4002 and they were produced at the same time. The 4004 had the remote control connection so it could be controlled when used with a Beomaster 2400-2.
I have three Beograms 400x at the minute - a 4004 which I bought new in 1980, a 4000 which in my view in the best looking and also best performing despite being the oldest and a (cough) 4001 - the 'limited edition' (say nothing Martin! ) black version to go with my Beomaster 4401.
The final number in the type number often refers to the different markets that the model was going to.
Peter
Thanks - so my 5511 has a DC motor and would the main board from a 5521 work? only ask as there is one for sale on ebay and I thought it would make a good spare as the trimmer on the 45 section of mine has broken
I wouldn't do that. Unless your 5511 main board has severe physical damage it can be restored to full operation without any problems. On all of the Beogram 400x turntables I have been restoring I have the platter motors (DC & AC) restored by Beolover. He has done an excellent job of re-infusing the brass bearings with oil. To go along with that he tests the motors for at least 24 hours continuously and, in the case of the DC motors, determines the best capacitor value for 1C10. When I install the new motor and 1C10 capacitor I always replace the RPM selector relay on the main board and both speed adjustment trimmers (33 RPM and 45 RPM). I also replace the original speed indicator lamps with Beolover's replacement lamp modules as he has shown those to make a measurable improvement in the platter speed stability but that is a different story.
If all you want to do is the speed trimmer then just replace it.
-sonavor
On the relays, Beolover makes drop in replacement relay boards (for both the Siemens and National relay footprints) that have a modern, encapsulated relay doing the switching work. Those are great because there is no modification to the board. Just de-solder the old relay and solder in the new one...and it's done.
So the trimmer for 45 RPM on your Beogram main board is physically damaged? Can you post a picture? I'm sure Martin could source you a new one. The Beogram board is easy to get to so replacement of the trimmer is just de-soldering three leads, removing the trimmer and soldering in the new one. If you aren't comfortable with soldering you could also unplug the board and send/take it to a tech that can. That's the nice thing about the Beogram 400x turntables. Electronically they are pretty easy to work on. It is all the mechanical adjustments that could be out of whack that take most of the time getting set back up. So if the mechanicals are good then you are in great shape.