ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Time to get started again, some virus is bothering me just urging me on.
This is a BM 5000 classic from Henrik (Square 4), a couple of years ago he gave me a BL/BM 5000 nearly for free, it turned out that the transformer in the BM was gone, but as Henrik is who he is, a real Beoworlder, he had one more for me, this time for free. I wanted to pic it up in DK end of September, but Henrik was on vacation at that time. He checked with Martin, and delivered the BM to him, for me to pick up in late September, and a dark September night on a train station north of Copenhagen I met Martin ( thanks a lot Martin) he brought me not only the BM but also some very good LPs as a gift from Henrik, and Martin gave me some resistors needed that I never paid for (I will I will). Again Thank you guys.
I had the BM on my bench a couple of days ago and found the following. Powered up with my variac checking the 20 volt supply, came up nicely without problems, no lights, found a pair of lamps and lo and behold the lamps came on after connecting an antenna, the BL 5000 is stored away from my house so I couldnt connect the BM to it, but it seems like the BM is working OK.
Last year at some point I checked the BL and that one too is working without problems, apart from some distortion, I made an inventory of what needed and put it in saved list with Mouser, I now added what needed for the BM and ordered, it should arrive tomorrow 15.06.18.
The plan is to change all electrolytic caps some transistors and trimmers in both units, in this thread I will only show the BM 5000. Here some pics, more to come.
As you see the rectifier has been changed, but in the rest of the unit I didnt find any traces of repairs.
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Good stuff Soren!
Since I finished the Beolab 5000 restoration, while working, I never touched matching tuner.
You have at least one follower for this one LOL!
Charles
While waiting for parts I did some cleaning, in the BM just some dusting, both of of them are, apart from dust, clean. I then went to the fronts, as you see in the pics they are very different, the best one is a series 10 and the other one an earlier series (no number label on it) so at some point B&O changed something to the betterr.
Here closer
The sliders comes off easy but if you do a wet cleaning all the felt pads comes off, and after re gluing its a PIB to get the sliders back on
When I finish the BL and the BM I will decide to buy new fronts and sliders from Frede or not
Later today I will start with cap change
Hi Søren.
Good to see you are back again.
I am glad to hear that the second beomaster is okay,and i really look forward to following your thread.
Henrik
square4: Hi Søren. Good to see you are back again. I am glad to hear that the second beomaster is okay,and i really look forward to following your thread. Henrik
It is only possible because of you, best thing is that the BL 5000 is working without problems, i only bridged the main switch and then it worked perfectly, i used it after adjusting the currents at a party driving 2 sets of speakers for some 8 hours.
Nearly done, changed all the electrolytic caps and the 4, BC 114 to BC 559B
I used radial and axial caps whatever I had in stock and what came nearest to the original values
The bridge rectifier was glued with some very sticky glue and half lose, I desoldered the DC side to kip it up for cleaning and then glued it again with hot melt glue
Cleaned and glued and the big cap also in place
I then connected the BM to my variac and started up slowly, checking the 20 V DC supply with my DMM, no problems what so ever, connected the BM to the BL and everything working
Good reception, I will pack it away until the BL 5000 is ready, I want to do the final adjustment with tone generator and oscilloscope, but last time I used the oscilloscope is 2 years ago, and that was the first time I used it, will have to freshen up my knowledge about it.
I will be honest, it was more "exciting" when you had a LOT more to fix, with all those incredible step-by-step photos.
I was "glued" to my computer monitor looking for the next installment of progress.
I remember just hating it when you took a break from the repair.... I was impatient as to see what you would do next. The transformation was remarkable, as was the entire process.
I especially loved how you cleverly restored the finish on the power supply. Very artistic!
Anyway, there was a lot of up and down drama associated with your first BL/BM repair, so I am happy you found a pair that you could almost just plug in and use.
Glad to see you back at creating your B&O magic.
Jeff
Beogram 4000, Beogram 4002, Beogram 4004, Beogram 8000, Beogram 8002, Beogram 1602. Beogram 4500 CD player, B&O CDX player, Beocord 4500, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 8004, Beocord 9000, Beomaster 1000, Beomaster 1600, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 4400, Beomaster 4500, Beolab 5000, Beomaster 5000, BeoCenter 9000. BeoSound Century, S-45.2, S-45.2, S-75, S-75, M-75, M-100, MC 120.2 speakers; B&O Illuminated Sign (with crown & red logo). B&O grey & black Illuminated Sign, B&O black Plexiglas dealer sign, B&O ash tray, B&O (Orrefors) dealer award vase, B&O Beotime Clock. Navy blue B&O baseball cap, B&O T-shirt X2, B&O black ball point pen, B&O Retail Management Binder
Rich:It is fun to watch our virtual friends working on their stereos, it’s true. But I got to tell you, I don’t miss working on stuff myself. I think the last thing I did was fix the motor of a Nakamichi BX-300, and that was at least 2 years ago.
Rich,
I gotta agree with you. I love watching Soren's work unfold and find it stimulating.
However, other than the simple stuff, like most recently replacing the belts and cleaning the spindles on my "new" Beocord 4500, I will remain content to watch Soren do it, and with style.
I decided to "service" my Tandberg 9000X reel-to-reel and I swore to myself, "Never again." I mean I did get it working a whole lot better, but the stress when rummaging around not knowing what I was doing got to me. All this made worse when the shop I hired to do a "proper" repair said I did manage to improve the "obvious" stuff, but I missed a lot too.
I still have to change the lid belt on the Beogram 4500 CD player, but keep putting if off, as the Beocord 4500 was a bear to get into. If Martin hadn't told me how, I would still be trying to figure out how you get in from the top, where the belts are.
Its quite understandable Rich, I started out with a BM 1000 from the US bay, just surfing there for an amp/receiver and bid 15.00 USD on the BM just for the fun of it, and won it, Found the forum and was hooked and thought lets try something new, with the kids gone its only me and my FS in the house, so we have time on our hands, I found it interesting, still do, and is hanging onto it. You did a lot of interesting repairs and experiments when active, but at some point you got the feeling "been there done it" and found other ways to use your time.
For me it is a way of relaxing and learning something new with every new item.
Somehow the dial string came off, trying to get it back on I broke it, found a cotton cord to learn how to. Inside the dial wheel there is a tension spring, the tension spring has to be placed below the peg you see below the spring in the pic, set the dial to lowest mHz, put on the string to all guide wheels, make a loop at the 1 3/4 end of the string (see manual) hook the loop on the spring and make the 1 3/4 turn, tighten up the string and secure with it with tape to the chassis near the dial wheel, make the 1/4 turn and mark the string where the top of the loop should be, after a couple of tries I got it right, hooked it to the spring and loosened the spring from the peg, moved the dial wheel to end points a couple of times to check it. The guide wheel mounted to the chassis at an angle was a little off line, thats why the string came off in the first place. I bend the chassis a little to get it back in line, maybe 0.5 to 1 mm and tried again moving the wheel to the end points a lot of times and checking the tension spring still held tension, when I get a real dial string I now know how too, the original must be around 0.4 mm thick I think, difficult to measure. the cotton string is 0.8 mm so no good fit.
Here the pics
Søren Mexico: Rich:It is fun to watch our virtual friends working on their stereos, it’s true. But I got to tell you, I don’t miss working on stuff myself. I think the last thing I did was fix the motor of a Nakamichi BX-300, and that was at least 2 years ago. Its quite understandable Rich, I started out with a BM 1000 from the US bay, just surfing there for an amp/receiver and bid 15.00 USD on the BM just for the fun of it, and won it, Found the forum and was hooked and thought lets try something new, with the kids gone its only me and my FS in the house, so we have time on our hands, I found it interesting, still do, and is hanging onto it. You did a lot of interesting repairs and experiments when active, but at some point you got the feeling "been there done it" and found other ways to use your time. For me it is a way of relaxing and learning something new with every new item.
I recently moved house and changed things around a bit, stereo-wise. One thing I did was to put my Beovox S-40's with refoamed woofers on to my desk, and the S-45-2's were going to go into the living room. A few minutes of listening to the S-40's, and I knew something was wrong. Turns out, the new foam surrounds for the woofers had already begun disintegrating. So, despite wanting to retire from the repair business, it looks like I've been pulled back in.
I will be using rubber surrounds this time. I don't care if that affects the sound, I've modified these S-40's so much now I should stop calling them B&O!