ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi alls,
Hope i'm not gonna hurt anyone's feeling here !
I add the opportunity to have some Beocom 6000 handsets and parts : 3 handsets, 2 keyboards, 2 bases and a free bottle opener !
One handset only is functioning with his base, the others seems to have the dead RF chip symptoms, no comms at all with the base.
Well, all in all it helped me to do what i did buy them for which is to implant an bluetooth handset into it.
So i bought a second hand Native Union bluetooth POP handset and start the surgery.
I'm pretty bad at taking pictures while the work table is a mess so forgive me if some steps are missing.All in all it was easier than i imagined and -Spoiler Alert- it worked
So here we goes…
So the goal was to replace this
With This
First thing was to strip off he BT handset.
Quite easy. At the end you stay with a little pcb board connected to a mic, two speakers (ear and bell) and the USB socket and battery.In the process the speaker for the ringtone was disconnected, so i cut it out.
The Beocom was also dismantled, just keeping the front part+keyboard and the hull.
BeoNut since '75
The things did get quite well:
- The POP BT Mic did fit perfectly in the little ribber that keep the become mic in place.- I removed the BT POP speaker and use the original Beocom one thus preventing the use of any glue or something to fix it.- I plan to also use the ringtone speaker but didn't try it yet.- The main BT POP PCB can be installed inside in a way that the main button (hang in, hang off) stay in front of the center wheel button.The other buttons (Volume +/-) are lost.- USB socket is two wire, so they must be a way to connect it to the original charging pins of the Beocom (to do). - Appart from the central wheel button, anything else is non-working. The BT POP status LED can be seen through the LCD screen. - Two screw holes are conveniently placed to secure the BT PCB with a little plastic strap. I use a o'ring to adjust the PCB height in order to not have the button continually depressed. that was the most difficult part.- The hull will need a little cutting to give room for the PCB. Nothing difficult as the plastic is quite soft.
Here is what it look before closing it.
Now, the "replace that by that" shot was made this morning, that is with the work done !
So it works ! Now i need to connect the ring speaker and manage the handset to charge when on the base.
For people who are alarmed by this, i would like to say that the working handset and the base are untouched (just disconnected the wire).
I just screw up a non working beocom PCB and a hull (internally).
(Guy, special dedicace, hope you'll find this post !)
Yes - following with interest - looks great so far!
Is the silver piece (up near the speaker) the battery?
Hey, Happy, you see it !
Yes it is the battery. it's secure by it's original double side tape.
Are you going to modify the charger to produce 5V (usual USB output) or accept the 5.6V that it usually produces? Perhaps add a series diode inside the handset?
I'm not that skilled !
But how i see things; the charging is provided by two wires. So i just need to convey those two wires to the beobase contacts and then to a usual USB wire.
The two wires could go to a regular USB computer socket, or any USB out charger…
I have two base. One pyramid silver base, i refrain myself to work on it too much because dont want to screw it up.One black little pyramid charging only one, which is good candidate for twists but less interesting in design terms…
So the work is more on making things "cancellable" that the difficulty to bring +/- 5V to the handset !
I always try to stay away to definitively modify original components forever
That makes sense and I fully understand your wish to leave things reversible!
There's no electronics inside the pyramid charger base, so you should be able to simply solder the two USB-lead wires on. You can even leave the original wire connected and tuck it inside.
Here's a picture of a pyramid charger that I bought as a 'dummy' shop display charger; I opened it up to find the cable inside!
I saw that picture before, yes.
Bt when i opened my base, things were a little bit different: there's a PCB covering almost all the surface, and a connector to the main wire.I tried to tuck the wire inside but felt like i was close to break the PCB when closing the base. As the connector is a simple click in thing, i choose to take out the cable. Maybe to replace it by a USB simple one.
Anyway, My base is quite different,
That's a PSTN base station rather than just a simple charger. Presume that it had a label on the bottom with ' 'PARK: 36 - 000 XXX XXX' on it?
But if you have disconnected the lead then it should be fine for what you are trying to do.
Yes it has a Park label.
I thought all the silver bases were PSTN and the simple charger were only the little black ones with the metal holder.
matador43: Yes it has a Park label. I thought all the silver bases were PSTN and the simple charger were only the little black ones with the metal holder.
No, I have several pyramid bases that are just chargers. They do not have the charging light on the front.
Good morning to you alls,
A little update about my project: In short, it failed!
After having it very well working for some week, it get tired of charging it through the usb socket i left in the battery compartment.So i started the handset and base work to setup usb power to charge when the handset is on its base.At the same time, i connected the ring speaker to the BT PCB and it worked well too (adjustable ringing is loud enough).
But in the process à lot of wires get constantly out of their soldering point and I have to solder them again.And i dont know what happened but at a certain point the pub refuse to charge and even power down as soon as i connect usb power to it.The system is still working but as the battery is very low now I'm just able to power on the handset a few seconds before it go off.
And as i'm unable to charge the battery again, it seems the full project will never see the light!
Anyway, just to say that even if my skills and knowledge ruined it all, theoretically, it works.The BT Beocom 6000 was functional for some weeks and the usb power is just two wires, so, easy to connect from both ends (handset and base).
Just know that the handset cannot be reused after that (glad i had a dead spare one) and it need à little fiddling, but all in all, not a complicated thing to do.
Hope it helps someone, someday…
matador43:In short, it failed!
Hi Alls,
Today I received this, so the project active again !
Good morning guys,
The surgery went well and the handset is now working and charging since yesterday ans has received various calls! (see picture: red light is charging, blue light is bluetooth connection).
Some detaisl on the process. What you need is:- A native Union Pop Bluetooth handset, It's the most difficult part to find, second hand market only. Other handset may work but they need to have a central button to take the call OR very good skills in electronics :-)- A 12/17 flat ring, in any hardware store. Cheap.- A piece pf plastic.
Once you've stripped off the POP handset you'll have that board and his connections:
The red and black wire on the right (top of the board) are for the ear speaker, you must unsolder the POP one and use the one in the Beocom.
On the left part (bottom of the board) you have various connections:
- MIC +/- are connected to the POP mic. It can be used as it and will fit into the little rubber piece in the Beocom.- BATT +/- Is the battery and stay as it.- DC +/- should be soldered to the golden pins at the bottom of the Beocom. Carefully note the polarity for later.- SPK +/- Must be soldered to the ringer speaker. Use the one on the become after removing the one from the POP.
You will have to do a little bit of sanding and cutting in the battery compartment of the Beocom parts but nothing visible from the outside.
Then you have to fit the POP board in the Beocom front panel with the central POP button in front of the wheel button in the Beocom and the flat ring in-between.
Don't forget to put back the screen WITHOUT the transparent plastic spoon. You can use the foam removed from the original handset to pack the pieces. Tuck all the cables inside. Secure the board with the plastic piece using the two screw already present in the Beocom.
Add some foam to pad the empty space. Check the central button, you should feel the click, if not, adjust the thigthening of the screws. When its all good, close the Beocom and wait for a call! In the meantime, grab an old USB wire and strip the side opposite to the USB connector. You should see 4 wires: green, white red, black. We'll use the red and black. Open the Beocom base and solder the red and black wire on the brass springs which connect with the pins on the phone. Carefully check polarity and bare in mind the phone is reversed when sitting on his base.
My base is a full one with Park Nbr. I was able to mod the base leaving the original PCB untouched so this should be non destructive.Charging only bases should not be a problem at all (see Guy's pictures in previous posts).
When done, the red light of the POP PCB should shine red through the Beocom Screen indicating the phone is charging. A blue light should also blink, indicating Bluetooth link. If not, try to pair your phone again.
When a call arrive, the Beocom ring, you can pick the call and hang up by pressing the wheel button.Double press, trigger redial or Siri (on my iPhone). Volume is set by the phone.
Sound quality is… Vintage but totally acceptable (not worse than the original POP). Style on the other hand is… Well, no need to mention :-)
Regards.