Beogram 80002 dust cover

Has anyone found a decent way to reattach the dust cover lid when the plastic tabs are broken on a Beogram 8002 etc?

I’m thinking to use the same automotive double sided tape I used on the top plates. What have you all had success with?

I think the double sided automotive tape might be a little too thick. It might work as a last resort. There are some thinner, strong double sided tape (Teva I think) that might work. On one restoration I did the Beogram 8000 already had broken tabs and someone repaired it with screws. I was surprised that they had done a good job and the attachment worked pretty well. With that type of fix you would have to study the back panel and scope out the screw locations very carefully. There are places you would definitely not want the screw to go through. 

Your picture shows the bottom lip of the back of the dust cover. When attached that has to snap to the underside of the cabinet. The tabs just helped hold the back flush with the back of the cabinet so the lip edge can stay in place. I think that the thickness of the 3M double sided automotive tape would prevent that. 

 

 

Sand the mating surfaces and glue it using 2-comp epoxy.
Araldite Standard (the blue slow setting one) is good.
Clamp it to the chassis good and tight. 

You should NEVER unclip that backpanel unless you need to replace that exact part.
Everything else is perfectly serviceable without losening the dustcover hinge (despite what's stated in the servicemanual). 

Martin 

Thanks guys. Ordered Martin’s recommended epoxy. The last two Epoxies I’ve tried were not so great and were the fast set type. This was a parts deck that was poorly shipped. eBay. But all my parts 800x decks seem to find themselves functionally fully repaired after awhile.

The back part that is lifting up is partly fractured by the socket opening, so the screw method wouldn’t work on that side very well without some reinforcement first. The fractured back is probably why the lip isn’t holding and not the little broken tabs. It probably isn’t firm enough for the lip to hold. I thought those flimsy tabs were more important.

The whole time I was repairing the Beogram, I was so careful with the fragile cracked back.

But it didn’t hold up to regular use. I should have epoxied it before it let loose.

I typically use Araldite and JB Weld. They have formulations with different drying times. However, a key thing is letting the glue cure. I try to let this type of thing cure for at least 48 hours before allowing any stress on it. I have always been reluctant to glue that dust cover to the back so it is good to know that is a viable option.

That worked nicely. If the lip was also broken on the transformer side it would have been more difficult to clamp.

Also, the lid no longer scapes while closing with the left hand. Looking at one of my other parts unit Beogram 8002s that is now turned fully functional, I think the lid that scapes while closing is bending up in the back and right of the center where the back of the cover moves away from the table while closing. I’m thinking of using epoxy to stop that movement to see if I can make that unit not scrape while closing. Takes away future options of lid removal but I don’t think it should ever need to be removed unless I am brave in refinishing the clear cover.

You can still take off both the dustcover and the metal cover.
Just punch and pull out the steel pin running the width of the Beogram.

The only thing you cannot easily detach is the backpanel itself.
If it breaks at the dustcover hinges and must come off it must be ground away mechanically - and in that case it was already to bad to use.

Martin

Here in red is the area I saw shifting and bowing while closing the lid,

I epoxied the plastic to the metal on this Beogram like I did for the damaged Beogram and now it doesn’t rub while closing! This seems like a good option.

To what metal?

Martin

Dillen:

To what metal?

Martin

Thanks Martin, I didn’t phrase that right. Plastic outer to plastic back just like the previous dust cover. Now the metal rod does not bow nearly as much, so the lid closes without shifting.