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This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022

 

BeoLink Active 1636 with no IR Eye

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Raffaele Sgherri
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Raffaele Sgherri Posted: Tue, Sep 18 2018 8:45 PM

Hi,

Is it possible to use the 1636 BeoLink Active to convert a MasterLink into a PowerLink without the IREye?

Is wired a MasterLink from BeoSound 3000 (Option 2) with the BeoActive and then to a pair of BL4000 but they do not switch on at all.

I have no idea of the Option setting of the BeoLink. But I know t he wires are fine as if I connect them to a BV7 all works fine.

Ideas?

 

Millemissen
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No ir, no commands for turning on, no sound!

Why use it in that case?

Or why use it without the ir-eye?

MM

There is a tv - and there is a BV

Raffaele Sgherri
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I have a complex wiring with MasterLink, and I have an input source as PowerLink into my Almando. In same room, I have the BeoSound 3000 I'd like to use for CDs without re-wiring to pass a PowerLink cable in place of actual MasterLink.

 

I assumed that the BeoLink Active behave with the IR eye being an optional controller - if not, why have an Option 0 setup possibility on it - inheriting control for on/off from the MasterLink data coming from the BeoSound 3000.

 

When I had the BV7 wired in same location, he powered on when I turned on the CD automatically, even if using the buttons and not the Beo4 remote, is not the BeoActive able to the same?

 

Steve at Sounds Heavenly
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Hi Raffaele,

Unfortunately, Beolink Active won't work at all without the IR eye.  Option 0 is to let the Active work only from manual commands on the buttons of the IR eye, instead of accepting remote control commands.  Without the IR eye connected, the Active will remain silent and will never turn on.

Your best option here is to run the correct cable from the Beosound 3000, even if this does mean some redecorating......

Kind regards, Steve.

Steve.

www.soundsheavenly.com

Founder of Sounds Heavenly Cables and Brand Ambassador for Bang & Olufsen

Sounds Heavenly are proud to sponsor BeoWorld!

Please check out my YouTube channel at https://youtube.com/soundsheavenlycables

Raffaele Sgherri
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Hmm... sad news, will return the unit and work out the re-wiring. :(

RaMaBo
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RaMaBo replied on Wed, Sep 19 2018 11:27 AM

Why don't you set the local Beosound 3000 to Option 6 and connect it to the masterlink.

This allows you 'local' CD playing and 'local' radio and also the masterlinked sources.

The Almando Powerlink Switch is also not needed this way.

 

Ralph-Marcus

Raffaele Sgherri
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Hi,

I have in same room 2 BL8000, 2 BL4000, 1 BL2 and 1 BL7.2. Those are connected to my Samsung TV through HDMI-CEC using an Almando 5.1 Decoder appliance. The device has an additional PowerLink input where I'd like to add the BS3000 input, therefore it's either I use the PowerLInk cable (re-wiring it) or as I tried to do I try to use the existing MasterLink cable converting it to PowerLink to avoid rewiring the room.

The Almando kit is needed for the TV, nor just for the audio of the BS3000.

 

I used to have a BV7-40 (MasterLink + TV), but it's panel broke. :(

 

Hope this clarifies the setup.

RaMaBo
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RaMaBo replied on Wed, Sep 19 2018 2:44 PM

Hi,

 

this clarifies it a little bit.

What is on the other end of the masterlink? Are there any TV's or Beosounds which can act as a video or Audio-Master? Or are there 'only' Link rooms with Beolab2000/Beloab3500/LCS9000/beolink active...?  or in other words: in which direction does the music flow? Smile  From the TV /Audio room to other rooms or from other rooms into this room?

 

Ralph-Marcus

Raffaele Sgherri
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I have B&O appliances only in this living room, hence the music would like to make it flow from the BS3000 (CD and Radio) to the loudspeakers. The Audio Master would need to be then BS3000, all the rest are speakers. No link rooms, I had only the BV7 and the BS3000, MasterLink used to integrate them and use same speakers for both audio sources.

My idea was to use a BeoActive to "convert" the MasterLink into a PowerLink signal, and use it for the Almando box with no need for rewiring. My assumption was that the MasterLink would send a "on/off" command to the unit as I started the CD player or the radio, as the BV7 behave. In some ways, this would replicate the existence of a BV7 (or BS3) with the loudspeakers able to play music from the TV or the CD/radio.

The easy going is to wire a PowerLink to the input PowerLink of the Almando (rewire necessary, as I have now a MasterLink cable in the wall) but the rework is kind of painful.

 

RaMaBo
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RaMaBo replied on Wed, Sep 19 2018 3:51 PM

Ah, okay. The masterlink cable was only used to interconnect the BV7 _and_ the BS3000.

To avoid recabling you need two a very special handmade adpater plugs: powerlink DIN plug  to masterlink female plug. You masterlink cable in the wall has male plugs on both sides.

This is a very special case may be Steve from Soundsheavenly can make such two adapters for you. The main problem are the two female masterlink plugs!

 

The Beosound 3000 has to be programmed to Audio Option '1' to be controlled by your Beo4. You can use the A.Mem button of the Beo4 for an additional Audio source connected to the AUX connector if wanted (convieniance factor).

 

Ralph-Marcus

Steve at Sounds Heavenly
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Hi RaMaBo,

Thanks for the suggestion, however I regret that I don't have any way to make a Masterlink to Powerlink cable, as there are no female Masterlink sockets available.  This would be best to be done on site by a local B&O installer.

Kind regards, Steve.

Steve.

www.soundsheavenly.com

Founder of Sounds Heavenly Cables and Brand Ambassador for Bang & Olufsen

Sounds Heavenly are proud to sponsor BeoWorld!

Please check out my YouTube channel at https://youtube.com/soundsheavenlycables

Raffaele Sgherri
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First of all: THANK YOU ALL.

Sincerely, this is why this forum exists over the years.

Back to business: I'm getting from you both that I can avoid the re-wiring by making the MasterLink cables be a neutral media to transfer a standard PowerLink signal as I plug at both extensions a PowerLink DIN plug with exact same wiring. This way, it just behave as a PowerLink cable with lot of wires unused.

Clever idea, indeed. To make around the missing females, an alternative may be for me to use the MasterLink cable but remove the males and attach a PowerLink DIN directly; I mess up the cable and is no more a MasterLink, but I'd not care. Anyhow, as soldering is required I may as well do the rewiring with PowerLink cable. WIl just take more time and some work, but the ultimate result appears cleaner (as Steve suggested above already).

 

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