ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hello All,
I am re-assembling the motor of my Beogram 2000 Type 5240. Everything went well apart from two uncertainties:
a) Whether I have centred the rotor correctly. I don't have the gauges that the service manual recommends using.
b) Not sure what position (vertically) the 'conical' stepped pulley should be fixed to the rotor spindle, i.e. using its tiny grub screw. At the moment I have it so that the idler wheel is level with the top of the stepped pulley. But this gives quite a lot of vertical movement of the stepped pulley after it is secured to the rotor spindle. In other words should the rotor sit as far down into the motor as it will go (as I currently have it) OR, should the rotor be pulled up by its spindle before securing the stepped pulley so as to remove any vertical movement? Doing this will mean the rotor will be closer to 'upper' main bearing and further away from the 'lower' main bearing that is attached to the motor body.
Many thanks, Carl
Assuming this is the same setup as the Beogram 3000 of a similar vintage that I've been servicing recently, then don't worry about the play in the rotor - just make sure the rotor is sat down into the motor as far as it will go when you align the idler. If the BG2000 also has variable speed, then set the control to its midpoint and set the idler height so that it is in the centre of the conical section of the pulley for whichever speed it is set on.
In addition, the bottom bearings are self aligning, so once you've got the motor back together, give the bottom of the bearing housing a moderate whack with something like a screwdriver handle (yes, honestly!) - this will align the bottom bearing.
Hi AdamS,
Thank you for that clarification and for such a prompt response. I doubt there is much difference in principal with my BG2000 and your BG3000. It did seem instinctively correct to have the rotor sat in its lowest position. Just hope all this work bears fruit! Good luck with your project.
Rgds, Carl
Can anyone advise please?
I have lubricated the motor bearings of my Beogram 2000 (properly by vacuum infusion) and have just put it all back into the turntable. I lubricated all moving parts of the idler wheel assembly. I also had to replace the LIFT button assembly as mine had broken. I'm as sure as I can be that I've put everything back correctly - I took many photos along the way.
I was hoping for a faultless re-commission but sadly that's not the case.
When I press the LIFT button I get a loud horrible 'spinning' noise combined with no rotation of the platter (unless I help it manually). Additionally when I press the LIFT button again to stop the motor, nothing happens, the motor keeps running, along with the noise, and continues to spin the conical stepped pulley that in turn drives the idler wheel. I have checked several times that the platter drive belt is seated properly and that the stepped pulley turns freely by hand. I fear if I allow the motor to run for too long with this noise present then I will burn something out.
MOTOR NOISE - The noise is either coming from the stepped pulley (do I have it too tight up against the metal frame, however, as stated earlier it turns freely by hand) OR is it the motor? I wasn't getting this noise before disassembling the motor. Obviously I have done something wrong but what? Have I assembled the Idler Wheel framework wrongly, i.e. do the 3 spring tensioners that secure the idler wheel framework need to go back in a certain way, perhaps in a specific order? That said, the noise occurs regardless of whether the idler wheel is in contact or not with the stepped pulley.
LIFT BUTTON NOT STOPPING THE MOTOR - I have checked the solenoid that the LIFT button engages and all seems ok, no broken wires or anything that I can see. Pressing the LIFT button does start the motor but the platter doesn't turn on its own. The 'base' platter that the main platter sits on spins very freely when the turntable has no power (and possibly when there is power but I haven't checked). I have also checked the thin connecting rod that runs from the LIFT button rotating ring, and that seems ok. I've 'visually' checked all electrical wiring and I cant see anything wrong. I've turned the speed selector of the LIFT button to each of its 3 speed positions and mechanically everything seems fine.
This is all such a shame after a lot of work, Does anyone have any ideas on the problems as explained above and what steps I might take to identify and rectify these problems?
Thank you for any help. Carl