ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
follow up on the thread:
http://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/2439/21021.aspx#21021
I took the advice from Mika and Martin for this DIY.
I skipped the MX and picked up a LX2802N insted
The separate enclosed speaker still inside the TV-set
The speaker cable is not equipped with a standard DIN connector but with a small one for PCB attachment, not a big issue though.
you also see the IR-module which was the only other part besides the speakers that I planed to keep, for an other DIY project, and the BL1000 off course.
and here the speakers yet to be cleaned.
before starting to plan on a box or new cabinet, there is some testing and listening to be done.
comments will follow
cheers /Goran
I'll be following this with great interest
--mika
okay so the first test tells that it sounds good, really good for what it is
I first foundt the highs sounding baffled and started fearing that the tweeter was gone in both speakers. Now I have tried to run some test tones from http://www.audiocheck.net/ with hight frequency "noise". they start at 20KHz and go down in steps of 1KHz and you can tell when you start to hear, so this one is more of a test of your hearing than the speakers
anyway, my girl friend told me to shut it off at 18KHz and I did not understand the complaint untill the tonetrack got to 14KHz
so now I wonder if this would even be possible with faulty tweeters, and if there is any other way to tell if they are faulty? I guess the cross over makes it impossible for the mid driver to reproduce the sound, but can a faulty tweeter still make it?
hope someone has an answer to that one, next will be back to back testing vs CX100 and MX6000
BeoLignage:so now I wonder if this would even be possible with faulty tweeters, and if there is any other way to tell if they are faulty?
Apart from teasing dogs and girlfriends just as you already did, not much than measure the tweeter with an ohmmeter. If it shows something between 3-8 ohms (not sure what impedance these tweeters actually are supposed to be), it is most probably working.
Usually they either work or don't work. The coil either melts together or burns out, and in either case you won't have any sound - but I don't think it's very likely if they have been in a TV.
Careful with those test tones, they can easily heat the tweeter more than any playing of (non-distorted) music could.
...so the set up for back to back testing is as follows:
Right and left input channel splitted to MB3500 and BV-MX6000. First the MX6000 speaker was compared to the CX100, this to get a base line, since this has been the actual 3.1 setup used for movies. It has appeared to me as a good match.
Shifting the balance from the computer from 100% left to 100% right in one single step gives a good comparison of the speakers, with the inevitable issue that the source goes through two different amps, one BM and one in the TV and those have different bass and treble setting. What I hear first in this test is that the MX speaker sounds "Boxy" like a TV speaker compared to the CX, but at the same time a soft, nice sounding box , with good punch to the bass.
next up is to repeat the test with extracted speaker from LX2802 vs CX100, this test without the amp difference issue. However, pretty much the same feeling but the difference is lesser, the LX does not sound "Boxy" but still more baffled than the CX, which appears really clear in the highs.
so from this I feel quit happy with the LX speakers, it will be a better match to the CX's if used as rear or center speakers.
but to complete the test I set up the LX and MX, now it gets interesting, because the first impression is that the LX is the better speaker, less boxy and less baffled, however, after that I have played several pieces, I find out that there are some high frequency sounds that disappears on the LX which can easily be heard on the MX e.g. in "Depeche Mode - Personal Jesus" at 2.55 there is a plinki plonk which is not possible to distinguish on the LX.
so this ads to my concern that there is something wrong with the tweeter... confused
I think that for more detail, you should experiment with a MX7000. This one has active filters and amplifiers per speaker.
Or you could use speakers which are extracted of a LX6000. This latest LX serie has special tweeters that differ from all the early versions.
Far more detail in my experience with the liquid filled tweeters.
toilet paper roll! i used it to listen to the tweeter, and it works, both the method and the tweeter. The LX speakers needs more volume or higher setting on treble, with that they actually work really nice.
I think this makes the LX speakers more suitable for a rear channel speaker than a center channel, but it also makes a good stand alone stereo pair...
tournedos: I'll be following this with great interest
I hope you still are and as a thanks for your help in other threads (and to others interested) I'll post a small update
I decided to build my own cabinets, and after experimenting with the original ones, blocking and cutting the bass port to different lengths I decided to make a closed speaker design.
It will consist of a round top and bottom and a baffle, all made in oak, and then a round cylinder which will act both as cabinet and fret.
Fixing the drivers... also with everything disconnected I got the chance to listen to the driver individually, checking their performance
Re-caped and cut to size crossovers, wood work waiting for treatment