Advice pls: Is BS3 still worth buying?

Asking for some advice. Is Beosystem 3 still worth buying now? I want to replace my non B&O amp with BS3 to control my LG TV and AppleTV (Via IR out). The BS3 will be used as sound processor only.

Another question is, the BS3 only have one IR out, does it mean all the external device must "see" the same IR extender?

 

Many thanks!

I think that the "IR out" that you're seeing is the socket for controlling the TV's on/off. The IR out to control source devices such as the Apple TV is the "control" socket in the area of the corresponding source input number.

I have a BeoSystem 4 and two BeoSystems 3. The BeoSystem 4 has the benefits of some custom sound settings and the ability to download PUC files yourself. However, the BeoSystem 3 is still very useful (and affordable). Since you're not using it for video, you will not be able to see the menu overlay. So you'll need to remember or write down what the menu commands are for some devices such as a blu-ray player or cable box. You can temporarily connect the BS3 to the TV for the purpose of seeing what the menu commands are in the menu overlay and write them down. The Apple TV PUC, however, is pretty straightforward and intuitive with the remote buttons.

Since the BeoSystem 3 does not connect to the internet to let you download PUC files, you must take is the your B&O dealer to have your dealer load the PUC files for devices that you'll need. The dealer will likely charge you for this service -- unless you have a really great relationship with your dealer. When you do this, you should plan ahead for various devices such as blu-ray players and common TV brands, etc. so that the PUC files will be there if you need them in the future. The Apple Remote PUC is pretty commonly loaded - so you might already have the Apple Remote PUC loaded.

For the more recent Apple TV models, you'll need to get something to extract the audio from the HDMI to send the audio to the BS3 while sending the video directly to the TV. I'm presuming that you're sending the video directly to the TV because you want 4K. I use an HDFury device to split the video and audio from the HDMI for the Apple TV 4K.

Beojeff,

Thank you for your reply. Indeed I plan to use one HDMI input on the TV as configuration page for the BD3. Having said that, I found out the Bs3 my seller has is a Mk 1. So unless he is willing to accept a very reasonable price I will have to pass. I still believe we will have a new center speaker with some sort of speakers connectivity ready.

Sorry double post

Imho yes. See flash your b&o

Thanks for the tips. Any idea what advantage Mk 2 has over Mk 1? I read in earlier post that Mk 3 has 3D over Mk 2, and suggest to avoid Mk 1.

Little search on the old fourm:

- mk1: not full hd

- mk 2: full hd, ok you need a dealer to program it bur fairly cheap to get

- mk 3: hdmi output instead of dvi-d and 3d (less and less screens providing 3d, so irrelavant imho)

the almando solution works if you don’t mind using different remotes and maybe usefull if no b&o sound system integrated

—-

Martin,

Besides the very large number of software updates which effected both versions and the introduction of "Adaptive Sound Technology", the only core changes provided by the mark 2 I can note from reviewing the spec are:-

1. Formats provide 24 pictures per second
2. FHD 1920 x 1080p
3. There are two system module outputs now with the addition of an "F" connector for the US market

The Mark 1 version has "Type" numbers 9600 to 9612 and was sold between June 2006 and Dec 2008

The Mark 2 version has "Type" numbers 9615 to 9628 and was released around October 2008

Many thanks. So it seems if using BS3 solely as sound processor I am good to go as long as I update it with my dealer (plus I will be missing Adaptive Sound Technology)….

 

May I ask why you use the Samsung remote instead of Beoremote?

-With the BS3 my needs in term of sound processing are satisfied, I know that for some Dolby Atmos is important but 5.1 is currently enough as did not want more speakers in the room. Also important for me was ML connectivity (beosound 5 in the room and serves also for sound for the guestroom next to it) just plug and play. No converters needed

- AST is impressive as a feature but has no added value for me

- samung remote: to turn TV on/off and select one time the video source (see picture) either

— B&O: is the HDMI/DVI-D output from the BS3 which manages the Settopbox (DTV)and the Kaleidescape (DVD) (puc control and sound levelis with beo4)

— Apple Tv: 4K video feed direct to tv, sound via optical out to spdif. Here I press VMEM on beo4 for puc control and sound (and soundlevelcontol).

VMEM is also the soundinput to BS3 for all the other in-TV smart apps (control of these apps is with the samsung remote, but for the acces to Netflix and Prime I use the Apple Tv as I prefer the subtitles beter on the apple tv then smart Tv app (they are less bright and in your face on the apple tv)

— Camera’s: a straight hdmi Input from my Camera system. No sound needed

Positive BS3: straightforward (no over-complicated BS4 menus) solid old school B&O and cheap to find. Also easier to connect as all the connections are in the front and then nicely hidden with the cover

Negative: you need a b&o technician to program it once (ie flash the puc, all the rest is self explaining)

I hope this helps

Grtz

Samsung remote is not the worst either:

All three BS3's can handle Full HD.

Only the BS3 used in the first mk1 BV9 handled just HD-ready as the screen was HD-ready.

The BS3 mk1 is used in the mk1, 2 and 3 version of the BV9. From the BV9 mk2 FullHD was displayed.

The BV9 mk4 came with the BS3 mk2 with the extra AST feature. The difference was a different audioboard inside the BS3.

AFAIK is the BS3 mk3 with 2x hdmi out was only used with the BV4.

5.1 is good for me too, I have 5 speakers only anyway. Lol AST is nice to have but I agreed that it’s not a must. As for the remote, no saying there is anything wrong with the Samsung, but just curious why can’t or wouldn’t you use Beoremote to turn on Samsung and change input?

The BeoSystem is intended to have all video sources connect to it and to manage switching those sources to display in just one of the TV's HDMI input. Of course, this poses an issue with today's desire to take advantage of 4K sources since no BeoSystem supports 4K. For me, I have all of my 1080p sources pass their video through the BeoSystem 4. This includes the cable box, blu-ray player, and Apple TV (for 1080p videos, which are most of what are available throughout Apple TV apps). I have two devices for 4K that each use another of the TV's HDMI inputs: a UHD player and an Apple TV 4K (for 4K netflix and 4K iTunes movies).

Sadly, the BeoRemote cannot change the TV's HDMI inputs.

Do you happen to have a BeoLink Gateway? If so, there is a very inexpensive solution. What I did was to use a Global Caché iTach IR converter. It's only around $100. You can use your BLGW to send commands to it to emit the IR codes of your tv to change to the desired HDMI input. I simply use BeoRemote "Control" commands to trigger the HDMI changes and renamed those commands from what was on the BeoRemote (such as "Blinds 1.") to "HDMI 1" etc.

I think there are ways to use only beo remotes (like MLGW or Lintronic). I even looked at those little chips that you built in the beo4 ( https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69075--beo4-stb-flat-screen-tv/) but the remote does things i dont want (especially cd/radio...). And i dont want to add a ir control cable on the tv.

But for the moment I am happy

Beo6 might the best way to go I think. Especially that my wife loves the beo6.

I don't have Beolink Gateway, I intend to use IR extender to control TV, ATV with Beoremote 1.

chickenceo:

I don't have Beolink Gateway, I intend to use IR extender to control TV, ATV with Beoremote 1.

The BeoSystem 3 will only turn your tv on/off. It won't change the HDMI inputs of the tv.

So I cannot teach the BS3 to learn the code and command sequence to change HDMI input on the TV? Hmm, for me one of the benefit to switch from Pioneer pre-amp to Beosystem is to use the Beoremote, if I ended up using both the Beoremote and my Logitech I might have to pass. 

 

- Beo 6 might be able to learn Hex codes of your TV-monitor, and TV Hdmi Switching

- If you intend to us only 1080p sources: all can be done with the beo4 (apart from turning tv/off)

interesting read: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/28595/225163.aspx

Or google Beosystem 3 and non B&O Panel, 

Almando was not a solution for me, use of different remotes and complicated my Beosound 5 integration

But It might be interesting to ask a dealer what panels they can control and how.

I will not further look into this as I can live with the two remote setup. If I am really feeling couragous I might reprogram one of my beo6 but this is not a priority for the moment

An update: I finally got hold of the Beosystem 3 mk 2 and after wrestling awhile, I finally set it up with non-B&O TV, and Beoremote 1 IR. 

The result is exceptional. I don't know what crossover nor any equalizer treatment BS 3 used, but it gives a new life to my setup. I have used Onkyo, Lexicon, and Pioneer as a pre-amp and I have never have my Beolabs sound any better. In the past I have found my beolab sound a bit harsh and without mid-range. Not anymore. Sound is more solid and very pleasant to listen to, both movie and music. In the end, I would say its like a suit, its better to have the whole system from the same brand.

To save dollar upgrading PUC (my dealer charge me separately for each PUC update), I am using a Harmony 650 to control my tv, bs3, appletv without problem.

If you are on the fence for BS3, please go ahead, I don't think you will regret it.

You should consider getting a Lintronic box to use the B&o remote to control everything and get the full brand experience and be independent of your dealer for PUC upgrades.

Maybe next, but right now I am trying to get a floor stand for the LG and BL 10. Even though I will never get the full B&O treatment, ATV goes directly to TV and sadly I will never have the curtain effect. :(