Sign in   |  Join   |  Help
Untitled Page

ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022
READ ONLY FORUM

This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022

 

BeoLab 8000's and interference

rated by 0 users
This post has 2 Replies | 0 Followers

bartman
Not Ranked
Posts 5
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
bartman Posted: Tue, Dec 31 2019 3:28 PM

Hello, my first post here because I have a problem :(

I have had a set of beolab 8000s for a year. These are connected to a non-BO reciever, these are connected to the pre-out outputs on a denon.

 

My setup:

A Denon AVR-3808 on which all my sources come:

- Telenet (digital TV in Belgium) via HDMI

- Raspberry Pi as a media player (netflex, etc.) via HDMI

- Music (Logitech Squeezebox) via spdif optical

 This goes via the pre-out to my BeoLabs and via an HDMI to my Panasonic plasma TV.

I used to have the BeoLabs connected to their line in via RCA-RCA. Sound quality was okay (not 100%, it contained a little buzz). The main problem was that if there was no sound input, the speakers would occasionally jump up (light green) to display some buzz, then jump out again (light red), on to zoom, several times per minute . If the reciever is on and the music has been paused, then there is no hum or annoying jump on / off.

That is why I had planned to work via Powerlink / DIN8 cables (they have an extra ground (is this correct?)) And have the trigger output of my Denon switch the speakers on / off. Then the disadvantage is suddenly resolved that the speakers stand out in (very quiet) scenes.

I did this with a "Stereo Audio Adapter Cable, Trigger to DIN8 Female" from powmascables link and some generic DIN8 cables.

This really worked perfectly for a few days. Afterwards I got a nasty 7000Hz tone through the sound (more to the right than to the left).

If I connect a source (via this trigger cable and the powerlink cables) directly (I tested it with my squeezebox) then the 7000Hz is not there.

I also have a cheap passive speaker on the amplified outputs, which also has the 7000Hz interference. When I remove the powerlink from the Beolabs, the passive speaker no longer has it. So the 7000Hz arises somewhere between the reciever and the beolabs. Together they create that 7000Hz, I deduce from that.

My options are: continue searching where that 7000Hz comes, or again (but with a high-quality) RCA to go to the link and hope that they will not jump if there is no sound.

Someone an idea or good advice? Because it drives me completely crazy.

 

Thanks in advance

KolfMAKER
Top 500 Contributor
The Netherlands
Posts 176
OFFLINE
Silver Member
KolfMAKER replied on Wed, Jun 23 2021 2:51 PM

Hi Bartman, has your issue been solved in the meantime?

I have experienced several times the ON/OFF switching when connecting something non-B&O. But I also noticed that cabling has influence. Anything not being B&O PowerlInkg or unshielded RCA cabling, can cause that the cable starts acting as an antenna for hum/noise.

If you try to connect something via the DIN, be aware that the pin configuration for the DIN connector is not as with other audio equipment. Pin 2, 3 and 5 seem the regular pins for GND, L & R. But pin 4 is used for the Auto Standby.

Concerning your buzz, did you try to connect for instande an iPhone via mini-jack to RCA with the BeoLab?
Did you still have a buzz? 

bartman
Not Ranked
Posts 5
OFFLINE
Bronze Member
bartman replied on Mon, Dec 27 2021 5:36 PM

Hello

 

sorry for my late answer. 
the problem is under control. But it’s starting to irritate myself again.

If I listen to my iPhone connected to the speakers - the sound is as clear and pure it can be. So the speakers are fine.

I tried another amplifier with a much used source (logitech media player). Same buzz in the sound.  

now I’m thinking of a problem of the mains (net) power? Maybe the 230V AC (I’m in EU) is “dirty” from some other sources. 
since my iPhone is net/mains independent - I think that’s the only posibility?

 

I’ve read somewhere that the 230V AC can be dirty from led-drivers, solar panels, washing machines, …

 

is a mains filter the solution? Not sure I want to buy another thing for 1-200€ to see afterwards it’s not a solution.

Page 1 of 1 (3 items) | RSS