ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi y’all! Hope you had a great Christmas and New Year!
I recently came across the dream system that actually got me interested in audio many years ago at an estate sale, and purchased an entire “vintage” B&O setup consisting of:
Beovison 5 on motorized stand
Beolab 8000
Beolab 6000
Beo Remote 4
I was unable to test it so I took a bit of a risk buying it, but it has all functioned more or less. I did have an issue with the BeoVision television being properly controlled by the remote, and I am unsure of this is how they normally behave or not.
Question 1:
I press Menu. TV Menu comes up. I try and navigate with the Arrow keys but am unable to move in the list. I also have tried the number button that corresponds to the option I would like to select. Remote shows TV, powers on TV... no idea how to turn it off. I thought that I read that the”.” Button places it in standby but that seems to be turning on closed captioning. Rather seems like the remote is broken I took it apart and found corrosion on the button membrane I cleaned everything and reassembled but it behaves identically
Question 2:
On menu, stand is grayed out. Does this mean there is an issue of some sort?
I have poked around and I think I plan on retrofitting a modern TV into the Beovision5. It looks like a standard old Panasonic Plasma using the HD-15 input for video, and the DB-9 for serial control. Was thinking I could use that port to still get on the on screen control of the audio and stand options, and use an HDMI port for my Roku ultra. Anyone done something similar? I found a fella that did it on here, but didn’t find any details anywhere.
Thanks all!
Ryan
Welcome to Beoworld!
The BV5 usually asks for a password if it has been off the mains for an extended period. If a wrong (4 digit) password is entered 3 times the TV will go into 'Wait' mode. Of course a previous owner may have disabled the need for a password and that may not be the problem, but if you have proof of ownership a dealer should be able to give you a master code.
Graham
I don’t believe that’s the issue... it has not asked for a password at any point. I am able to hit tv multiple times and have it switch between STB and CBL so it doesn’t seemed locked.
Ok. I found the manual on here. Found that the motor was not plugged in at the base. Of course with my bad remote I can’t see if it works but I will get another remote and test soon.
Started the conversion to a modern TV yesterday. Bought a 43” Sony XBR-43X800G to fit into the cabinet. Did the initial fitting of the existing bracket to the Sony. It really is kind of a pain to get everything just so, and the Sony uses a more standard VESA 300x300 mount. Unfortunately the bracket has a cutaway about where the lower mounts would go. The TV is so light I may just go with two bolts, but I’m contemplating welding a piece of strap across the bracket to pick up the lower bolts. It really wouldn’t be an issue but I had to space the TV forward from the bracket an inch and a half and it’s kind of floating in space.
Also, trying to figure out a way to use a raspberry pi PC to control the stand. If I can ever figure that out, I’d like to ditch the Old B&O video controller inside the unit. This of course affects the audio processing. I need to give further thought to how I want to utilize this.
My original intent was to turn the speakers in the unit to a simple center channel speaker in a 3.1 setup to pair with my Beolab 8000 as the L&R, and my beolab 2 as the Subwoofer. I was going to utilize a Marantz 1510 to do A/V processing and switching. the advantage to this is I can utilize airplay audio with all the speakers, without the TV being on. I believe I can just use the amplifier board inside the beovision 5 to drive the speakers. This looks to have the crossover and all on the same board. My only issue becomes A) powering the amplifier board which is really a non issue, and B) figuring out the audio input to the board. It looks to be unbalanced stereo, can anyone confirm that? I would just use the center preamp of the Marantz to drive the center just like I do with the L&R.
Give me your thoughts please!