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English translation request and applicability comments?

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Doonesbury
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Doonesbury Posted: Sat, Jan 5 2013 3:54 PM

I saw this referenced in another on-line forum.  It appears to reference how to hook up B & O speakers to non-B & O preamps.

Unfortunately, it is not in my native language (English) which I have enough problems with as it is!

Can anyone provide a translation to English and/or comment if this is a suitable way to connect B & O speakers to non-B & O preamps?

 

http://www.hifi4all.dk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=71963&KW=peter+pan

2012martin
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2012martin replied on Sat, Jan 5 2013 3:57 PM

His David. Have you tried using google translate?

Doonesbury
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Doonesbury replied on Sat, Jan 5 2013 5:57 PM

Excellent idea!  I wrote the above early this morning (relatively speaking), hence not thinking of it.

Since reading your suggestion, I've tried Google translate some success.  Some of the technical words seem to have some variability in translation.  A "human" translation would still be helpful.

David

RussR
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RussR replied on Sat, Jan 5 2013 6:12 PM

Which speakers are you connecting to the pre-amp, and what connections are available from it?

 

Russ

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Magnus
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Magnus replied on Sat, Jan 5 2013 7:53 PM

It is indeed drawings explaining how to solder a cable to connect Beolab speakers to a non-beo pre-amp. It basically takes the 12V trigger from a preamp through a resistor down to 5V and then feeds it to the Beolab.

 

Magnus

RussR
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RussR replied on Sat, Jan 5 2013 10:05 PM

Again, would be nice to know which speakers, exactly, we're talking about.  Most Older BeoLabs have an RCA/phono connection which can be used right off the back of mast non-B&O pre-amps.  No adaptors, no issues.

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Søren Hammer
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Søren Hammer replied on Sun, Jan 6 2013 12:24 AM

I can translate for you; what info would you like?

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Søren Hammer
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Søren Hammer replied on Sun, Jan 6 2013 12:41 AM

" If you are going to use a Beolab speaker system with a non-B&O system, you have to put voltage on a trigger pin to get the speaker to turn on. The minimum voltage is 2.5 Volts DC.
Active B&O speakers are activated by a voltage between 2.5 and 5 volts; there are cables with built-in voltage regulators to protect the trigger system of the Beolab speaker. They exist in various versions, 1xRCA -> 8 pin DIN plug and a 3.5 mm jack. The converter cable is constructed to protect the active speaker's PoweLink module which normally is specified to maximum 5 volts (2.5-5 volts in "on"), 12 volts on the trigger module does shorten it's lifetime considerably. It's easy to use this cable with non-B&O stereo/surround gear with a standard 12V trigger system to turn external units on/off. The cable is available online here:  http://av-connection.dk/?PNo=AV-D8B-XXX&ML=17
You have to be careful, noting that one PowerLink adaptor is needed for every channel, there are different pinouts for the left, right and center channel.
An important part is to decide what kind of master control unit you would like - Stereo (2 channels) or surround (5.1 or 7.1)? Is it going to be a preamplifier unit and maybe a number of ICEpower modules, or an amplifier? It is easy to use a surround receiver and get a tuner to boot.
 
You'll find more examples concerning use of non-B&O gear with pre-out and some with trigger out. "

Vinyl records, cassettes, open reel, valve amplifiers and film photography.

Doonesbury
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Doonesbury replied on Sun, Jan 6 2013 2:26 AM

Right now, I'm only in the planning stages.  My current thoughts are as follows:

BeoLab 5 as front mains (no other subwoofer)

BeoLab 3 as surrounds (x4)

BeoLab 7-4 or 10 as center channel.

I do not have a preamp yet.  However, if I had to get one right now, the Integra DHC-80.3 would be a strong contender.  It is a preamp/surround sound processor.

It has pre-out RCA jacks and XLR outputs.  I see from the on-line back panel that it also has 12V triggers.

Doonesbury
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Doonesbury replied on Sun, Jan 6 2013 2:30 AM

Ideally, it would be nice to have the entire thing!  However, that might be too much to ask for.

I can get some of it by copying and pasting into Google Translate, but obviously that has some drawbacks as I've found.

Unfortunately, some of the text appears to be embedded in pictures so it can't simply be copied and pasted into Google Translate.

It would be nice if the original author of that page provided an English version (assuming he or she speaks English).

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