ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi just got one of those CDX and when you plug it in an outlet cd motor is spinning for minutes and you cannot do anything else.
Once the cd motor stop you can put a CD and the CDX plays normaly.
Anyone encoutered that problem ???
I did not pull it apart yet, if someone already had the problem it would help to start from somewhere.
regards
Reflow the rivet vias.First step in any CD X repair. It solves a lot of unexplainable issues.
Martin
See photos here:
http://tvcaudio.com/tvc/Philips/JemCD104.html
It's a CD 104 but circuitry and PCB's are the same. In Philips language the rivet vias are called "griplets".
Jacques
Hi
Thank's for your replies, tried but no changes, found also cracks starting on the PCB 01 (power supply) but not cracked enough to make something going wrong.
As it is open I checked the diagram and saw that there is a PCB 07 (called Disc motor stop), but where is it located, as on the diagram I see it but not at the bottom od the CDX may be you have to go from the TOP ???
I am shure you guys that open them a lot must know how to get to that pcb 07, then I will be able to control all switches going to that card, must be somewhere there, as twice it workded without that motor spinning at plug in. Looks like a wrong or misadjusted switch somewhere.
Or else on the card itself.
I forgot : Happy New Year to all of you here on the forum.
You cannot tell if the rivet vias are bad by looking at them. They fail from cracks inside the rivet.You must suck out the old solder, feed a piece of wire through the rivet and solder the wire to appropriate nearby padson both sides of the board.
Dillen: You cannot tell if the rivet vias are bad by looking at them. They fail from cracks inside the rivet.You must suck out the old solder, feed a piece of wire through the rivet and solder the wire to appropriate nearby padson both sides of the board. Martin
I agree with Martin. Have you done all the griplets as shown here? Checked on all solder joints with a magnifying glass?
Yes I did... even re-did the ones that has already a strap on it they were 2 like them.
As soon as I turn the button play the motor starts to spin.
By checking around over the net I fell on this page : http://www.audiovintage.fr/?p=894
Well it seems that there is 2 boards to do, since I did not do the decoder, the one on the bottom, could be there too.
The biggest pain is that stupid resistance to take off each time to pull out the first board.
keep me posted but I am shure that you guys will tell me to do the second one too.
Peter on this site have posted nice images of the griplets to repair. It's now on the archiveforum:
http://archivedarchivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/28100/220727.aspx
Here's the images he posted. It clearly shows all the griplets to repair:
The servo has only 2 griplets. But, as you can see, the decoder pcb has much more griplets!! When I did mine, I first only did the servo ones. It has worked. But then, winter came and many intermittent problems came with it.. In fact, I had to turn up the heat of my house to make it work...
I did all the decoder pcb, 3 weeks ago which, if I remember, is more easy to access than the servo one....
...And don't forget to resolder that ceramic capacitor at the end... last time, after the repair I closed everything, tested, and became nervous and sad... I forgot to resolder that said capacitor...
Hi everyone
Did the servo pcb 4 and did not like to take out the card, I am used to more convenient access from B&O. So both pcb's are done.
On the servo PCB I redid also all griplets, even the one that are connected to a capacitor did not count but that makes about 6 to 8 griplets on the servo pcb.
Well so far so good. Tried twice and motor did not spin, pressed play and it looks like working well.
I will check again tomorrow while it has cooled down, then put back the bottom cover and post if it's fixed.
@hamacbleu : Thank's for the help but when I saw your post, I had finished, but I am shure it will serve well for the next that will have trouble and for google too.
[SOLUTION]
So, this morning pluged the CD player in the outlet and no problem at all.
Listen at least 5 times to a mickael jacson CD 15 tracks and no problem, not even a little shifting.
So if anyone sees this post and when you plug in your Bang & Olufsen CDX or your philips CD104 or any related cd player and the CD motor start to spin the problem is in PCB 4 servo you have to redo the griplets as explained in this post but since you have to take out the PCB 7 Decoder better redo the griplets too otherwise you could get into other problems.
Thank you to all of you that helped me out in this post, and again have all a happy new year and most important a healthy one.
Patrick
Nice work! congrats then...
I really love that cd player. It does sound good and it's stable (when the griplets are redone...). Also, When you open it, it makes people talk. then you say it's from 1985, you just touch the panel, everythings close. Then the people talk more...
Guillaume
Well you are perfectly right, I bought this unit defective on e..y around 30.00 euros, I said to myself well if I fix it I might resell it on e..y or else.
The biggest problem is that each time I did that with a B&O, I never sold anything back as each time with them it is a new experience of design and sound. Did the same with a beosound 9000 and it's still here and I think for a long time.
And when I see all those chinese, japanese, taiwanese stuff that after 5 years are dead or out of date because a new stuff came out nicer, thinner, bigger like some flat screen that go down after 3 years, that drives me crazy, and no way to repair as it cost over 1/2 price of a new bigger, nicer, flater one... I think I will stop there you all guys get the picture. Not talking of my HP computer mother board dead after 2 years, had to replace 14 capacitors, all cheap junk.
I bought myself on ebay a dead Beovision 5 for 300.00 euros and fixed it (its a panasonic professional flat 42" screen inside) and I am pretty shure that it will be still working in 10 years.
Even if some are saying that you get better for cheaper, for me then you do not get the design, and all the other brands are very rarely WAF compatible.
Exactly! I find it hard to part with painstakingly repaired B&O or other fine equipment!
Well I think it is definitely fixed, 2 days now without any problems.
I installed it near my 5500 and for now no one said anything so even if it is 30 years old it is still WAF compatible ;o)