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ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022
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This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022

 

Re: How to remove drive wheel from motor rotor in Beogram 1200

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simonholland44
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simonholland44 Posted: Mon, Jan 4 2021 7:08 PM

Hi All,

I'm new to trying to recondition and lube my motor from a Beogram 1200 and after much fun trying to remove the motor itself, I'm now stuck trying to take the rotor out as I don't know how to remove the drive wheel.

There seems to be a very small hole which may use some tiny kind of allen key or do I just use brute force and then re-attach somehow?

Any guidance on the how or type of tool to use greatly appreciated as I don't want to break it.

Also, I've seen lots of different answers on the best lube to use from Lithium to sewing machine, again any guidance greatly appreciated.

Thanks, 

Simon

PS For anyone who can't understand why their motor won't come off like in some of the great videos out there, I discovered that my screws were upside down to those in the video I saw - with screw heads atop the motor rather than nuts, so I didn't remove them completely until I took the whole assembly out and then removed the nuts from below.

 

 

 

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Mon, Jan 4 2021 7:59 PM

The pulley is held by a tiny countersunk (grub) screw. Use a small flat-bladed screwdriver (watchmakers type).

Motor bearings MUST have a correct sinter oil infused under vacuum after cleaning out the remains of the old oil.
No grease or any other nasties in the motor bearings!

Martin 

simonholland44
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Thanks Martin, very helpful. 

Not sure I'll be able to do the vacuum unless there are some tricks to this that can be done at home but will certainly aim to use the correct sinter oil.

Thanks again, Simon

simonholland44
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Thanks Martin, very helpful. 

Not sure I'll be able to do the vacuum unless there are some tricks to this that can be done at home but will certainly aim to use the correct sinter oil.

Thanks again, Simon

simonholland44
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Posts 4
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Bronze Member

Thanks Martin, very helpful. 

Not sure I'll be able to do the vacuum unless there are some tricks to this that can be done at home but will certainly aim to use the correct sinter oil.

Thanks again, Simon

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Wed, Jan 6 2021 2:39 PM

Oil needs to be sucked from the pores in the metal bearing material by capillary action from the rotation of the spindle in the bearings.
Any oil added from the outside (dripped in etc.) will be pressed out and away rather quickly. It will not create the very thin film of oil needed to run smoothly.
Actually, most of it would merely be in the way.
If oil is simply dripped in (as you would conventionally do with many other things) typically the motor will run fine just when put together, but come
back next week or month - or even next morning, and it will be back to running slow again.

It's a rather delicate construction, but also incredibly long lived when cared for. Due to the thin film of oil forming on the spindle, there is no metal-metal
contact from the spindle to the bearings, and the motor can in theory run forever without ever wearing down.
But it uses oil and it needs to be replenished every 20-30 years or so, depending on use, and remains of old dried oil must be cleaned away.

Martin

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