Passive

Ok I need a bit of help from you guys.

My setup consists of beosound 5 beomaster 5 with beolab 6000 on the wall and penta's in corners sounds great but I want to add.

I have a passive amp and this was on my old overture connected to my cx50 and cona which I've had for many years.

I plugged my Powerlink cable into my beomaster (fully wired) and the amp comes on immediate even though my beomaster is in standby

so I turn my beosound on and plays great but when I turn off or should I say put my system to standby the amp stays on so I push the button on the amp to force into standby.

but when I power my beosound 5 on my amp stays in standby and I can't get it to power back on again.

Unless I pull the the Powerlink cable out and push it back in then it will come on again.

I'm very confused and hope someone will point me in the correct direction 

Thanks all

Tony 

 

Hi Tony, you may well have read about the specific cabling requirements when using the BeoLink Passive with modern sources that have RJ45 Powerlink sockets. I doubt that would be the issue in this case, but I could be wrong.

I suggest that you start by checking the continuity for each pin in the Powerlink cable you’re using to connect the BM5 to the BL Passive. Check that applying a voltage to one pin at one end will only conduct to the corresponding pin at the other end and no other.

If I’m wrong, I’m sure that Steve from SoundsHeavenly will be along soon to either offer a cable or advise which pins (if any) need to be shorted.

Lawrence

Thank you Lawrence.

I will check my cables as I have 2 at different lengths.

And believe it or not my Powerlink splitter cable was purchased from sounds heavenly.

This worked great on my overture so I'll get my leads tested as a priority 

Thanks

Tony 

I think you should be using a Masterlink cable and not Powerlink with the Passive.

See bottom if this page in the manual. Manual

Stoobie

Hi stoobie

I have the masterlink setup in my other room and works perfect. 

The masterlink is primarily for link room.

So still not sure.

Just tried all cables again and still doing the same I could just leave the amps on continuously but sure amp will burn out eventually 

Thanks 

Tony 

Tony70121:

I could just leave the amps on continuously but sure amp will burn out eventually

My Carver cube amp (M400-t, from the 1980s!) has been turned on most of the time, for years.  The passive kit I played with (for BS9000 to drive B&W CM2's) barely got luke warm except when amplifying a signal.  Sure, over time heat will kill the components, a board can get brittle and pop a solder joint, but... such time -- even for this amp wedged into a compact, sleek case --  is really long.  (Anybody with experience burning up their passive kit, tell me I'm wrong.)  In the meantime, report to @SoundsHeavenly *all* the equipment (incl. Type#) connected as a single system *and* with which cable types, so he can suggest maybe why his cable or your equipment is, or isn't, carrying the power on/off signal correctly.

Stoobietoo:

I think you should be using a Masterlink cable and not Powerlink with the Passive.

See bottom if this page in the manual. Manual

Stoobie

A Passive will accept either PL or ML as the input, but not both at the same time.

It should work with PL in the usage case described - it's just a matter of having the correct version of PL cable.  Steve will advise I am sure!

 

Thanks trackbeo.

I will ask sounds heavenly for a bit of advice 

It's really baffling to me and quite annoying to everything worked perfectly on my overture.

Thanks 

Tony 

Thanks guy

As I said it does work but when I power down my beosound the amps don't trigger off and if I manually turn it off it won't power on

Very confusing 

Thanks 

Tony 

Tony70121:

everything worked perfectly on my overture

Older equipment turned on pin 1(Pwr) in the PowerLink DIN connector, then (either with or without a brief delay) cycled on pin 4(~Mute).  Newer equipment just turns on pin 4.  Not being a true B&O-ite, I dunno if there were older and newer Passive kits, which did need, or maybe intentionally didn't want, pin 1 -- thus why you should tell-all, including your Type#, when asking for assistance.  Good luck, and don't forget to post your diagnosis/fix for future search'ers.