ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I finally had a chance to set up the BS9000 and other than once AGAIN having my ears and the poor BL1s nearly destroyed by the volume being defaulted to "54" (WHY DO PEOPLE DO THIS?!), it's a pretty cool machine. One problem...
I am getting an extremely annoying "POP" noise every time I turn the unit off, mute it, switch discs, or change sources. This pop is coming from the speakers and my connection currently is the BS9000 connected via power link to speaker 1, then daisy chained from speaker 1 to speaker 2. Other than this, the only other thing connected is a power link to AUX input cable which I had on the BM7000 as well.
The BL2 is most likely going away. Once I adjusted the BL1s with the treble and mids flattened to zero on the potentiometers, with the woofer at 4, they just seemed to come much more alive and more comfortable to listen to. At that point, the BL2 was just adding more boom without much substance. Very very nice sub, but I think the BL1s will suffice as they are.
I would suspect the problem is a cable issue. If you use powerlink from the 9000 to bl2 and plug in both speakers from the bl2, do you still have a problem ?
I actually have a few mark 3 powerlink cables now. A pair I ordered and a really thin pair that came with my BL1s. When I noticed this was happening I attempted to connect the subwoofer all by itself with the fatter cables I ordered and even with the subwoofer all by itself you can hear the pop from the sub when muting, standby, switching inputs or changing CDs. To a more minor extent, a light pop can even be heard when performing these actions over headphones with NOTHING connected to the powerlink sockets.
The strange thing is that there is no sound problems at all once the source is playing. Everything works fine other than the pop. There's no amplifier in this thing so I'm not sure why it's doing this.
Why have you got a powerlink cable in the AUX input socket.?
Powerlink cables are for speakers.
Have I misunderstood you?
Regards Graham
No, sorry. I meant that I have a DIN to RCA cable connected to the AUX input socket. However, even when I unplugged that the pop is still there.
Hi:
I had a similar problem crop up with my BeoSound 2300 a while back. My symptoms were very much like yours in that I would hear a "pop" when I changed stations, changed CD tracks, etc. When I finally got down to the troubleshooting process, I noted that the "pop" was only coming from my right speaker (thus, a right channel problem) and I also noticed that the "pop" was not altered by an increase or decrease in volume. It was at the same volume whether I had the unit volume set high or low.
I'm no electronics guru but I decided to give it a go and referenced the service manual for the BeoSound 2300. After some study, I noticed on the preamp board a P-L MUTE circuit that was in some way connected to the HEADPHONE output and interestingly, fed back to the PowerLink socket without having any involvement with the VOLUME control circuit. For good measure, I plugged in my headphones and noted that there was something not right on the right channel... If I remember correctly audio was absent but I could still hear the "pop".
On this particular unit, the P-L MUTE circuitry is made up of two tiny SMD transistors and two 8.2K ohm resistors which are mounted on a very small 4-pin sub-board which stands at a right angle to the main board. After carefully desoldering and removing the small 1" x 1" board, I tested the transistors in circuit with my DVM and, low-and-behold, the Right SMD (surface mounted) transistor had a short between the junctions. Just to be sure, I probed the other (left) transistor and it read - as best I could tell - healthy with no shorts at all. I further measured each of the two resistors - also in circuit - and they read fine.
The SMD transistors for the P-L MUTE circuit are 2SC4213 as TR1 and TR2. I was only able to find them on eBay from a China based seller. I ordered a couple and they arrived about 2 weeks later. I used Chip Quik to remove the right channel 2SC4213 SMD transistor so that I didn't damage the traces. I tested it one more time out of circuit and it was definitely shorted at the junctions. I then mounted my smallest solder tip and proceeded to carefully solder mount a new 2SC4213 checking after wards with a 10X loop to make sure that the joints were good and that no solder shorts were left behind. I then re soldered this P-L MUTE board back onto the Preamp board.
My problem was solved as the repair worked perfectly. No more "pop"!
After reading about your issue, I referenced the BeoSound 9000 Service Manual and, although not identical to the circuit layout of the BS 2300, the BS 9000 does have a P-L MUTE circuit and as part of that circuit has two 2SC4213 SMD Transistors. But, not being an electronics technician, I am unable to problem solve any further.
Hopefully, some of the other more knowledgeable Beoworld contributors can chime in here and help you along.
Good luck!
Michael
Lowell, Massachusetts, USA
I faintly recall this issue with something else. Try plugging the speakers into different wall plugs, or the bs9000 different plug from the speakers. Total trial and error at this stage.
BV11-55, BS9000, BL1, BL19, Transmitter 1, Beo4, Beocom 6000, BeoTalk1 200, Sennheiser HD600, McIntosh MHA100
*Sigh*... Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I'll look into those things. If it's the suggestion for the repair, I'll have to leave that one to the experts, this thing is NOT fun or easy to take apart.