ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hey everyone, just wanted to pop in and ask the good people of beoworld for some feedback on my latest creation. I made it a year ago, so I guess you can say it's been through a solid year of testing.
Anyway, it's basically a signal attenuator, allowing you to connect your Beolab speakers to any regular amp through the normal speaker connections. I found some schematics online and sourced the components from my local electronics store, soldered them all together, and put them neatly into the black box. The great thing about this is, you can decide the length of your leads. Secondly, if the cables ever wear out, you can simply replace them with ease.
The level of resistors used will allow you to connect it to a regular amp that pumps out up to 300 watts per channel (I had it connected to a 60 watt/ch amp).
Anyway, I'm thinking of possibly putting them up on eBay or something the rather, but I'm not quite sure if there's an actual demand for them. Thoughts anyone?
I admire your skills in building something like this.
However, I'm not sure it's a great solution sound-wise to reduce the already massively powered-up signal back down to a watt?, then only to amplify it again in the Beolab...
Many affordable amps nowadays has a pre-stage out (Cambridge audio for example) where you can easily connect Beolabs.
Too long to list....
Hello,
I believe it's a great product and if it's good sound-wise i think there is a market for it.
Steve at Sounds Heavenly is offering a similar product which I was considering before I switched my receiver to a Cambridge dito.
My B&O products: Beosound 9000, Beosound 2300, Beosound Century, Beolab 8000, Beolab 6000, Beolab 4000 x2, Beolab 3500, Beolab 2000, Beolab 10, Beolink Active x2, Beotime, Beo5 x2, Beo4, A9 keyring x2, LC2 dimmer x6 and growing....
Very nice work!! Looks very professional!!!...... B&O provides such a solution in a wire that has an attenuater at the end of it. One side is a din connector and the other is a RCA. If connecting to a non-B&O receiver you would simply cut off the din connector and plug in the leads direct.
Ah, you know... A little B&O here, a little there
Well done!
As already said, it isn't the neatest solution. An amplified signal turning down to line level and then amplifying again...
B&O used to do that with speakerlink connections when eg connecting a penta onto a Beomaster 5500. The master didn't have powerlink and the speakeroutputs were used for the penta's.
I build similar for a general amplifier with RCA and trigger output.
http://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/5983.aspx
B&O is actually using that technique again in the new BeoLab 14 system when connected to a non-B&O amp. Old tech becomes new again!!
Ok, didn't know that.
Did not expect that as a surround system needs at least a digital connecting for Dolby Digital or DTS etc. Otherwise it will be an analog surround setup as we already had in the older avant, BV3, av9000 and so on.
with the BL14 kit your receiver does all of the decoding as usual and the BL14 simply strips the power from the amplifier signal then re-amplifies that signal to the satellites and the woofer using B&O power. There is also an LFE input to pick up the .1 in a DD or DTS 5.1 setup.
BeoMegaMan: with the BL14 kit your receiver does all of the decoding as usual and the BL14 simply strips the power from the amplifier signal then re-amplifies that signal to the satellites and the woofer using B&O power. There is also an LFE input to pick up the .1 in a DD or DTS 5.1 setup.
Unless that part is just a pass-through. Because it doesn't make any sense to me, to re-amplify an already amplified signal.
6 powerful class-D amplifiers ensure incredible sound performance.Delivering 5 x 140 watt for the satellite speakers and 1 X 280 for the subwoofer. - From the B&O BL14 webpage
My guess is to control the quality of the listening experience. If left up to the (brand x) receiver it could be perceived any problems that pop up would be the result of said amp (i.e. poor sound quality) and reflect poorly on the loudspeakers. This way B&O strips the power to get the raw signal then reamp it the B&O way to control the end experience.
Well, garbage in > garbage out. But maybe you're right in this case.