ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I recently received a very tired Beogram 8000 that I am attempting to make right. The first issue (I'm sure there are many more) is that the markings on the plastic tachodisc are peeling off. Can I still get a new tachodisc? Is the replacement stainless steel disc that I see online a good substitute for the original? I'm pretty experienced working on 4002/4002 turntables, but this is my first go at the 8000. Any advice is appreciated.
Kevin
Hi,
Our very own Martin sells them here:
http://www.bonanza.com/booths/dillen_de?item_sort_options%5Bper_page%5D=48
Jacques
Perfect. That is what I found, I didn't realize it was Martin who was selling them. I just placed my order.
Besides the trashed tachodisc, the tacho-sensor lamp seems to be out. The main bearing is in fine condition, and there is no interference between the rotor, stator or the tacho sensor, but when power is applied the rotor doesn’t spin. Would one or both of these conditions prevent the platter from spinning under power? I was expecting it to spin with no speed control. When power is off, the platter rotates very freely, but when I turn on the power it stops rotating and kind of vibrates in place. Is it waiting for me to repair the tacho disc and sensor lamp, or is there another problem? I am very familiar with the B&O belt drive systems, but this is new to me. Thanks again for any advice.
Thanks for ordering a tachodisc,If the capacitors are still the original ones, I suggest you also grab a capacitor kit and replace the lot.Check also for bad solder joints, they typically crack at the edge connectors, in the power supply areas,at the CPU socket and where the socket for the flat ribbon cable from the CPU housing is soldered to the main board.
The drive motor is depending on the subplatter to run and it won't run, start and brake correctly without the platter.
Martin
Thanks, Martin. The 8000 is really in quite rough condition, so I don't want to throw a bunch of money at it until I can determine if any of the issues are terminal. I'll check all the joints and wait for the tacho disc. The tacho sensor seems to be working as I am getting switching current across the terminals when power is on. There is no visible light coming from the sensor, but now I'm assuming that is normal.
BTW, what happened to my older messages? I haven't posted for a few months, but I should have more than 4 posts. Did I miss something?
Keiko5: There is no visible light coming from the sensor, but now I'm assuming that is normal. BTW, what happened to my older messages? I haven't posted for a few months, but I should have more than 4 posts. Did I miss something?
There is no visible light coming from the sensor, but now I'm assuming that is normal.
Yes, it's IR.And yes, a server replacement. Your old posts can be found in the archives out there at the right side >
While waiting for the tachodisc from Martin, I have been assessing other issues, including the arm movement. I cleaned the screw shaft, replaced the belt, corrected some stiffness in the cueing solenoid, and repaired the tonearm carriage holder (part 14) which was cracked. I was able to get good lateral movement and cueing action, and the micro sensor for arm position seems to work well.
Thanks to Martin's tip, I found that pin12 from the transformer had a cracked solder joint, so I corrected that. When I plugged in the unit and pushed the play button the arm moved to towards the center. I pressed the << button to stop the movement and then pushed play again and the arm descended. The red dot-light on the sensor arm was blinking, which didn't happen before. After about 5 seconds ,the arm raised and the power shut off. Now I can't get any power to the unit. I checked the fuse and it is good. There was no pop or other indication of fault. Is there a a reset procedure, or another issue I haven't found?
Thanks for any help or advice.
Most likely a shorted capacitor.The processor will stop running (or being to run uncontrolled) if the powersupply isn't clean.It has been a long time since last I saw a Beogram of this series with good original capacitors andit's quite typical for older units that stood unused for years for caps to fail shortly after power up.
There are two fuses. Both are dimensioned very good and none of them blow without reason.
Thanks, Martin. I located the other fuse in the transformer housing and it has blown. I just placed an order for a cap kit with you (email). Thanks again for the help.