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This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi,
I bought a pair of S45-2 last week and started with posting pictures in "what are you working on.." thread and others. But now I have more and more questions so I thought I just start a new thread to gather them.
Magnet is now secured with epoxy, and cap-kit is soon to be ordered.
So now to question #1 does anyone have a spare 2-pin DIN terminal, the male plug that should sit in the hole on the back? it is missing on one of the speakers, and it would be nice to get close to original design. otherwise any suggestions? what I have found so far is a female chassis plug.
#2, were the inner walls of a S45-2 covered with fabric from factory? only one of mine has this brownish fabric on all inner walls, even the tube around the phase link driver has it, and it looks very neatly done so I start to wonder if it is original and have been removed on the second speaker. any suggestions?
No cloth in any of the ones, I have looked inside.(And that's quite a few).
Martin
Rich: As for the internal cloth, my pair does not have that. Sounds like a modder may have experimented with yours.
As for the internal cloth, my pair does not have that. Sounds like a modder may have experimented with yours.
That's what I was afraid of, however I think the cloth makes little or no difference to the sound (guess "he" noticed when comparing to the untouched speaker and therefore did not continue with that one) and regarding modding, it seems that the drivers and crossovers are untouched. thankfully
What was your background for changing the plug to the five-way type Rich? my alternative would be one of the below...
Thanks for your comments!
…regarding the stands, the part screwed to the speaker should work as a hinge, am I right? Was the design intent to loosen the two screws just enough to let them pivot?
I see in the service manual that there should be a small sleeve between stand and speaker, have to check if it is still there.
One of the reasons why many home theater enthusiasts smile upon the 5-way binding post is its flexibility. Like the name suggests, the 5-way binding post is capable of creating connections in five separate ways. They are able accommodate speaker wire connectors that require a clamping action in order to transfer a signal. Such speaker wire connectors include bare wire, spade lug connectors, and pin connectors. The 5-way binding post also has the necessary parts to allow for both banana plug and dual banana plug connectors. Another reason the 5-way binding post is looked on favorably is quality of the connection it provides. The 5-way binding post has a large contact surface compared with some of the other terminals available in the home theater market. The large contact surface improves signal transfer between home theater components, resulting in better audio quality.
//Bo.A long list...
BeoLignage:I see in the service manual that there should be a small sleeve between stand and speaker, have to check if it is still there.
The "sleeve" is a bushing with OD 2 mm smaller than the hole in the stand and about 2 mm longer than the hole, the bushing with 2 washers are attached to the speaker with a 5 mm Allen screw, tightened hard. The speaker can the pivot free around the bushing.
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Thanks a lot Søren, that makes sense! From the service manual I thought that it maybe was a rubber bushing with larger diameter than the hole, sitting in between stand and speaker, so you put me on the right track. Will need to find a new pair of bushings then, as my speakers are rock solid bolted to the stand.
Thanks Bo, for your extensive reply. The five way is superior to the small contact are DIN connector, but I rather wouldn’t cut a big hole in the back plate of the speaker. And the externally mounted variant pictured above is almost too small to cover the DIN hole. BTW you live in the same town as my parents, so if you at some point want to sell anything of BeO, you could send me a PM, and I may arrange an easy pickup, although I will try to calm down buying now after the S45s…. hmm or maybe… virus…
It's a piece of cake with a hole drill. Takes a minute. But to each his own.
EDIT
This is the terminal cup I use. Perfect fit for a hole drilled with 2.75" hole drill.
As expected, I did find a pair sitting in the top of my Bitz Box. These are likely from the recently refurbished P45 thrift store rescue (the rebuilt woofers thread). Perhaps Martin or Soren can confirm, but they appear to be the same as the ones I've removed from most every pair of Beovox I own (with the possible exception of CX50).
PM me your name and address and I will get them in the mail on Monday. No charge.
Hi Rich,
That is very kind of you to offer to send the plugs to me, it shows that some people on this forum really care!
Since the P45s have the composite/plastic back I assumed the plug to be different and checked the service manuals on site. Item number 7210071 is the socket, identical on P45 and early S45 with the mentioned composite back, however the S45-2 have a wooden back which I expect to be thicker and therefor the 7210022 socket is used.
Not sure if the socket can be adopted, looks like it attaches in a different manner, but not sure.
I will not see my speakers until Thursday so can’t measure the hole until then, but will do so then. Thanks again for your support!
Cheers
/Goran
Thickness may or may not be different. The "wood" back of the S45-2 is pretty thin particle board.
Method of attachment is identical: a bit of adhesive. The S45-2 and P45 (and S40, P30, M70 x 2) plugs were all removed in the same manner. Stick a screwdriver inside the "exterior" side of the plug. Then one sharp rap with a hammer on the srewdriver pushes the plug out of the speaker back wall. They all have come out pretty clean.
As long as the diameter of the plug is correct, the thickness (or rather, depth) of the plug shouldn't matter much if it all. Except, perhaps, if you're wall mounting and the plug extends out the back. In that case, you could grind/sand the thing flush I suppose.
At any rate, send me a PM if you want them once you get the speakers.
Søren Mexico: BeoLignage:I see in the service manual that there should be a small sleeve between stand and speaker, have to check if it is still there. The "sleeve" is a bushing with OD 2 mm smaller than the hole in the stand and about 2 mm longer than the hole, the bushing with 2 washers are attached to the speaker with a 5 mm Allen screw, tightened hard. The speaker can the pivot free around the bushing.
I measured the stand and the mounting holes, thickness 6mm an hole dia 8mm. so the bushing should be 8mm long and 6mm OD, and still fit a M5 screw. that yields a wall thickness of 0,5mm approximately. have some hard time finding one and thought there must be other options.
so I put a couple of turns of wire isolation tape on the screw to increase the OD and added a nut 8mm from the screw head to be able to tighten firmly. In addition a couple of washers to make it neat and save the speaker and stand. works a treat. pictures will follow but for now I add some pictures of the incline adjustment screws that I "made" one with original finger nut and one...
BeoLignage: ...so I put a couple of turns of wire isolation tape on the screw to increase the OD and added a nut 8mm from the screw head to be able to tighten firmly. In addition a couple of washers to make it neat and save the speaker and stand. works a treat. pictures will follow but for now I add some pictures of the incline adjustment screws that I "made" one with original finger nut and one...
...so I put a couple of turns of wire isolation tape on the screw to increase the OD and added a nut 8mm from the screw head to be able to tighten firmly. In addition a couple of washers to make it neat and save the speaker and stand. works a treat. pictures will follow but for now I add some pictures of the incline adjustment screws that I "made" one with original finger nut and one...
so here's a tip for all of you who have stands for your S45s but are missing the screws and especially the bushings.
I changed the Allen screw to a Hex type to match the nut used to tighten to the speaker, and I think the rest is made clear by the pictures
Hmmm...
Brengen & Ophalen