ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
What soldering iron do you guys recommend to do proper electronics work?
I have a Weller Universal 140 watt gun which is great, but too crude for electronics.
I also have a small Weller SP23L 25 watt with a much smaller tip, but the last time I used it, the damn thing took forever to heat up.
Jeff
Beogram 4000, Beogram 4002, Beogram 4004, Beogram 8000, Beogram 8002, Beogram 1602. Beogram 4500 CD player, B&O CDX player, Beocord 4500, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 8004, Beocord 9000, Beomaster 1000, Beomaster 1600, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 4400, Beomaster 4500, Beolab 5000, Beomaster 5000, BeoCenter 9000. BeoSound Century, S-45.2, S-45.2, S-75, S-75, M-75, M-100, MC 120.2 speakers; B&O Illuminated Sign (with crown & red logo). B&O grey & black Illuminated Sign, B&O black Plexiglas dealer sign, B&O ash tray, B&O (Orrefors) dealer award vase, B&O Beotime Clock. Navy blue B&O baseball cap, B&O T-shirt X2, B&O black ball point pen, B&O Retail Management Binder
I use this one but buy a set of extra tips to it. not the best quality in the tips and a little fumble is needed when changing, but it heats up fast and with the extra tips your ready for nearly everything.
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
I'm using a Weller soldering station Jeff. Did many PCB's soldering SMD components at work.
Brengen & Ophalen
Hi Søren and Leslie,
You guys are just the very BEST! Thank you.
I looked that the Weller digital but it was $220, so I purchased a Kakko FX-888D. It is probably not the best, but works quite well.
I am thinking ahead as I was forced to replace capacitors in my Beogram 8000 and BeoCenter 9000 using that crude Weller Professional (not pretty) and I have these S-102.2’s to think about.
However today’s need was something entirely different. I have been “lusting” over the Franklin Mint 1/12 scale Rolls-Royce Barker body Silver Ghost AX201 since it came out, but I couldn’t get myself to pay the $600 they wanted for it.
This is a really cool model with working everything (steering, doors, etc.), Sterling silver plated bright parts, genuine leather seats, and working head, side, and tail lights.
I found one on eBay (where else?) that was dropped for $25. It had a broken off windscreen, sidelight, headlight, hood ornament, badge bar AA-badge, broken rear suspension, and a broken battery box.
TLC and super glue took care of most of this, but the battery box was a real problem, now solved by this new soldering station. There was NO way my huge soldering iron could be used with the TINY 9v wires, but with the soldering station the electrics are now fixed.
Fabricating the missing piece to the rear suspension remains for tomorrow.
Thank you as always for your advice!
Søren says I am wasting my time repairing the battery box on this 1/12 scale Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost, but I say this was good practice in preparation for re-capping my MC 120.2 speakers, and grueling HARD work to boot!
Here’s how it looks with the highlight soldered back in place and the battery box repaired.
I use the Hakko 936, which is the 888's predecessor. Over 10 years, now.
Reliable as a stone.
I have 2 corded arms - one with a tiny 0.8mm pointed tip, and one with a 2.5mm spade tip.
A world of spare parts are readily available - once every couple of years, I have to replace the ceramic heating element inside the arm. Normal, routine, 10-minute job.
You made an excellent choice - I wouldn't have any other.