ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Interesting new development with my Beogram 4000. This evening from completely “out of the blue” when the 4000 finished play there was this terrible screech/crackling noise. It was sufficiently bad that I ran from the far end of the house to see what was wrong. The noise was enough to register about 1 watt on my VU meters and lit up my MI-3 oscilloscope like a mini-explosion.
Suspecting a short of some kind I wiggled the output wire and the noise quieted down about 90%.
I tried play again and clearly noticed the screech/crackling noise virtually disappeared (99%) during play, even when the music was over prior to pickup all was essentially silent.
However the moment the tonearm picked up the screech/crackling noise was back and in full force.
I tired wiggling the output wire a second time but this time it had no effect.
Quick background for anyone unfamiliar with my “crown jewel” Beogram 4000, it was sold in Berlin, Germany set for 240v, imported to the US by the second owner who chopped off the DIN connection in favor of RCA plugs sans ground.
This Beogram 4000 has been remarkably forgiving of operating without a ground, distinctly unlike either my Beogram 8000 or 8002 which MUST have a really good ground or they sound almost as bad as my 4000 does outside of play.
I am at a total loss to explain this issue, any ideas?
Jeff
Beogram 4000, Beogram 4002, Beogram 4004, Beogram 8000, Beogram 8002, Beogram 1602. Beogram 4500 CD player, B&O CDX player, Beocord 4500, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 8004, Beocord 9000, Beomaster 1000, Beomaster 1600, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 4400, Beomaster 4500, Beolab 5000, Beomaster 5000, BeoCenter 9000. BeoSound Century, S-45.2, S-45.2, S-75, S-75, M-75, M-100, MC 120.2 speakers; B&O Illuminated Sign (with crown & red logo). B&O grey & black Illuminated Sign, B&O black Plexiglas dealer sign, B&O ash tray, B&O (Orrefors) dealer award vase, B&O Beotime Clock. Navy blue B&O baseball cap, B&O T-shirt X2, B&O black ball point pen, B&O Retail Management Binder
Piaf:This Beogram 4000 has been remarkably forgiving of operating without a ground, distinctly unlike either my Beogram 8000 or 8002 which MUST have a really good ground or they sound almost as bad as my 4000 does outside of play.
If I understood correctly, you still do not have the 4000 grounded?
Piaf:I am at a total loss to explain this issue, any ideas?
--mika
tournedos: Piaf:This Beogram 4000 has been remarkably forgiving of operating without a ground, distinctly unlike either my Beogram 8000 or 8002 which MUST have a really good ground or they sound almost as bad as my 4000 does outside of play. If I understood correctly, you still do not have the 4000 grounded? Piaf:I am at a total loss to explain this issue, any ideas?
That is correct.
The previous owner had the end of the cable chopped off and two RCA connections installed without a ground wire.
What's wrong with those people cutting off perfectly adequate, grounded DIN plugs to fit bad RCA plugs instead? This is really stupid.
I am always amused when some American hifi buff asks a question like, "What is that connector? I have never seen it before!" Just a plain ordinary DIN connector mate!
Could your problem be an arm wiring problem? Have you tried another MMC?
Jacques
chartz: What's wrong with those people
What's wrong with those people
It's called being an American. I don't mind the DIN plugs on the components, but I can't stand the DIN connector on the passive loudspeakers.
I wonder if the muting circuit is going wrong as it only occurs when not playing.
Peter
Peter: I wonder if the muting circuit is going wrong as it only occurs when not playing.
Quite possible - but Jeff, please try a separate grounding wire first. We can chase ghosts and speculate until the cows come home, but that won't fix the obvious problem in the setup. A working muting circuit would only mask the noise from the missing grounding when the arm is up.
chartz: What's wrong with those people cutting off perfectly adequate, grounded DIN plugs to fit bad RCA plugs instead? This is really stupid. I am always amused when some American hifi buff asks a question like, "What is that connector? I have never seen it before!" Just a plain ordinary DIN connector mate! Could your problem be an arm wiring problem? Have you tried another MMC?
I totally agree. A RCA adaptor is available, so why cut off the DIN connector? The previous owner also chopped off the 240 plug in favor of a 120. Yuk!
Rich: chartz: What's wrong with those people It's called being an American. I don't mind the DIN plugs on the components, but I can't stand the DIN connector on the passive loudspeakers.
Rich, I am with you, I can't stand the speaker connections either. The DIN plugs are a different matter.
Peter,
The muting circuit is what I think is wrong. That said wiggling the wire should not have effected this circuit. I am contradicting myself, so this may require a bit more investigation. Whatever the problem, I appreciate your comments.
tournedos: Peter: I wonder if the muting circuit is going wrong as it only occurs when not playing. Quite possible - but Jeff, please try a separate grounding wire first. We can chase ghosts and speculate until the cows come home, but that won't fix the obvious problem in the setup. A working muting circuit would only mask the noise from the missing grounding when the arm is up.
Mika,
There is NO noise (or extremely little) when the arm is in play. The racket begins when the arm lifts at the end of play and doesn’t stop after the rest position is reached. It doesn’t begin when PLAY is selected, which I find odd.
In part it appears the 4000 series Beograms are not very sensitive to a lack of grounding. I have used my 4000 for 7 years sans ground with very little hiss to complain about.
Ditto the 4004 which I used with a DIN to 4 plug RCA converter (suitable for tape) but without a ground and it too was acceptably silent. Connecting the 4004 to the BeoCenter 9000 and using the DIN connectors eliminated what little hiss was present with my previous set up.
In start contrast both the Beogram 8000 and 8002 have a terrible screech without a really GOOD ground.
My first impression was a problem with the muting circuit, as Peter suggested. However in thinking about this; shaking the wire would have had no effect on a failed muting circuit.
Now I am thinking there maybe a problem with the cable itself or where it is connected on the inside.
So let me ask you guys how difficult would it be to source a proper cable with DIN connector AND how difficult would it be to replace? If it is just soldering 5 wires, I could handle that, as long as I knew which wire goes to which terminal.
Or failing that I assume that if I cut open the less than professional RCA replacement that I will find an unused wire that is the ground. Is this correct? If so I could solder on an extension wire and use it for a ground.
Jacques,
Anything is possible but the MMC20CL cartridge is my own old “discarded” cartridge that the dealer told me needed to be replaced, but now has the BEST sound of any of my 6 cartridges, including a NOS MMC20CL cartridge I have on the 4004. As such I would be very reluctant to replace it.
So as not to waste anyone’s time, let me be absolutely clear on my problem.
The minute I press PLAY there is no noise. The arm comes down and plays with NO noise, including the blank area at the end of the record.
The second the tonearm picks up the screech/buzz/hum begins and does not end even after the tonearm comes to rest and the platter stops.
This nasty BUZZ continues until PLAY is pressed and then it stops immediately. As such to don't think the lack of ground is the primary problem.
Must be something with the muting circuits.
//Bo.A long list...
BO: Must be something with the muting circuits.
I agree, but how do I proceed from here?
Please understand, if I knew the answer, I wouldn’t need to ask the question.
Okay Jeff, got that.
Not at home this weekend, but I will definitely have a look ASAP.
I dont know much about that machine, but,Like BO, I lean twoards internal circuit error, component fault, as to the provided schematics here on Beoworld of Beogram 4002, it has audio circuits for certain purpose.As the noise comes during certain arm movement, it is most likely electrical logcial terms involved from circuits that do something with the audio signal. Muting circuit error makes sence.
high crankling noise could be both a faulty capacitor or a transitor. Have had that happen to me over the years on different machines
My re-capped M75 are my precious diamonds.
Jeff,
A few suggestions;
Mechanical...
Take the two metal plates off the deck. Start the unit running without a record on the platter and watch the arm move along the platter to the center and return. Check the belt from the small DC motor in the top right which drives the arm carriage is not slipping. Check the round wheel on which the belt travels (connected to the long threaded shaft) is securely attached and not wobbling.
The arm carriage travels under the platter as it gets towards the center of the record, check the arm carriage is not contacting with the platter as it moves towards the center (you'll need to have your eyes almost level with the side of the turntable.
Check the long threaded shaft has enough oil on it, usually something a little heavier (but not much) than sewing machine oil is best. I have seen these squeal when the arm is moving quickly if they dont have enough oil.
Electronic
I would check the muting relay as my first stop, it may need a squirt with de-oxit or something like that. The muting relay on the 4000 is up in the top right hand corner of the deck near the DC motor which drives the arm (if I remember correctly). You can see it move and activate the sound signal a few seconds after the arm drops on the platter.Give it a bit of a squirt with a contact cleaner such as de-oxit.
I have always found with these decks, take the two metal plates off and just watch them as the arm moves along and you can usually see the issue pretty quickly.
Hope this helps
Andrew
Hello Andrew,
I am sure your suggestions will help. I will take a look tomorrow and see what I find.
I have six Beograms and appreciate each and every one, but the Beogram 4000 is by far my favourite.
It arrived UPS in shattered condition, as the owner did not know how to pack it. It was only with the help of two BeoWorld members that I got it back in the condition that it is.
I will report back what I discover.
Thank you!
Andrew,
Problem Solved!
Thank you so much…. and it was SO easy. My Beogram needed a bit of lubrication, which it now has, and there was a wobble in the belt driven wheel that moves the tonearm, also corrected.
But what solved the problem was the detoxification/contact cleaner spray and like magic, transport is again silent again. (OK there is that slight hum from the lack of ground, but it is very, very slight.)
I really appreciate your help!
Very happy to hear that you sorted it out Jeff, the old Beogram 4xxx series are fun to work on.
Make sure that you pay attention to all those things I mentioned on the linear tracking decks :) The other main thing to check for lubrication are the two shiny metal rods on which the arm assembly slides, they should have a thin coating of grease on them.
The pulley which has the small belt on it is prone to crack, I can only assume from plastic ageing or fatigue from the effort required to move parts that are no longer lubricated.
Glad all is well again.
Drew
Hi Drew,
I agree, I enjoy working on the 4000 series Beograms. Everything gets attention, but occasionally I miss something. The 4000 is set, but my 4002 and 4004 could use a bit of lubrication.
The 8000 series is different, but the 8000 and 8002 have been good for so long I don’t remember opening them up, which is a good sign.
I really, really appreciate your help! With time I would have figured this out, BUT your advice put me on target and made for a 10 minute repair!
All the best!
I forgot to ask, with your precise knowledge of the Beogram 4000, does that mean you have one?
I ask because I was under the impression that the Beogram 4000 was not exported beyond Europe and I see that you are in Australia.
Mine was originally sold in Berlin, purchased second hand, and later shipped with household goods when the owner moved from Germany to New Jersey.
I can not tell you how often I have been “corrected” when talking about my 4000 and people saying (to the effect) “You mean a 4002 or 4004 don’t you?”
Even the people who act as my B&O and electronics gurus have only seen pictures of the 4000.
Hi Jeff,
I have a Beogram 6000 type 5503 with the AC motor which shares many things in common with the 4000. I have been restoring the 6000 and have read over the service manuals many times and therefore am pretty familiar with the 4000 and 6000 decks which are covered in the same manual.
There are a number of 4000's in Australia, I have had the opportunity to pick up three over the last 18 months but have resisted because I already have a 4002 as well as the 6000. I love the preamp in the 6000 and its overall feel. I love the 4002 (DC motor version) because it has a few changes such as IR and LED lamps instead of traditional tungsten lamps which make it more reliable generally speaking.
Andrew: Hi Jeff, I have a Beogram 6000 type 5503 with the AC motor which shares many things in common with the 4000. I have been restoring the 6000 and have read over the service manuals many times and therefore am pretty familiar with the 4000 and 6000 decks which are covered in the same manual. There are a number of 4000's in Australia, I have had the opportunity to pick up three over the last 18 months but have resisted because I already have a 4002 as well as the 6000. I love the preamp in the 6000 and its overall feel. I love the 4002 (DC motor version) because it has a few changes such as IR and LED lamps instead of traditional tungsten lamps which make it more reliable generally speaking. Drew
Both your collection and knowledge of the 4000 series turntables are impressive!
In all candor I never intended to have a “collection” of turntables, B&O or otherwise. My only goal was to repair my Beogram 8000, but all efforts both local and taking the 8000 on the ferry to Vancouver proved unsuccessful.
I had never liked the Beogram 8000 as much as my original Beogram 4002, which I found more handsome…. but it was struck by lightning ages ago.
Unable to repair the 8000 I began looking on eBay for a top notch 4002 and found a claimed flawless one that came with a Beomaster 2400.
Buyer’s remorse set in with the unfounded fear that after this long, long ordeal, the 4002 was going to disappoint upon arrival.
I did a bit more research which is where I became “intrigued” with the iconic Beogram 4000. None the less what I found, prior to the arrival of the 4002 was another claimed flawless 4004. Bought that one too.
Both arrived damaged in shipment, the 4002 being far worse off, shipped with the platter in place. It might have arrived in one piece had Customs Canada not mistaken the Beogram for a “bomb” (So noted on the shipping box in BIG red letters and a lot of yellow “caution” tape.) They attacked the box and the 4002 suffered accordingly.
Eventually I got both 4002 and 4004 operating properly along with HOURS of wet sanding the dust cover, returned it to essentially its original pristine condition. The 4002 was especially difficult as I’d fix one thing and then something else would go wrong.
Only then did I find a Beogram 4000 for sale on eBay. In the 10 years that I have been looking at B&O on eBay I have only once found another 4000 and it was in Switzerland.
My Beogram 4000 was sadly packed and arrived shattered making the combined damage to the 4002 and 4004 look like nothing. It took “all the King’s men and all the King’s horses” to put that one back together, with a lot of help here at BeoWorld.
About this time I was befriended by a seller on eBay who shipped me enough parts that I was able to cobble two Beogram 8000’s into one really nice looking one that worked.
Plus since I was having such a devil of a time with my 4000 series turntables, this seller gifted me with a Beogram 1602, as a back-up.
With five Beograms there is no explaining why I just had to have an 8002, but I purchased one of these fine turntables as well.
So which Beogram do I like the best? Hands down, the Beogram 4000. Although the 4000 looks a good deal like the other 4000 series, a look inside and the rest suffer by comparison. Then there is the strobe and the useless but entertaining arm position indicator.
But which turntable sounds best? I thought you’d never ask, the Beogram 4000. Now the experts here on BeoWorld will tell you there is little reason for this other than the MUCH heavier platter, the endless possible speed adjustments, and very different drive motor.
Whatever the 4000 just is a stand-out. Now the 8002 is almost as good, but it doesn’t quite match the 4000. If I was rating them as objective as possible, I’d give the 4000 a 10, the 8002 a 9, and the 4002/4004/8000 a 8.
So is there a point to this long-winded bit of trivia? Yes, you really might want consider adding a 4000 to your fine collection.
Hi Jeff, Hi Andrew: I have here, BGs: 1202, 2404, 5000, RX, TX2, waiting for pick up in TX another RX (tonearm on the first one came bad), waiting for pick up in DK BG 1000. ( for sentimental reasons, was my first ever B&O buy)
Was looking for a BG 4000, a classic, but after consulting Martin he told me to get a 4002 or 4004, easier to service and repair, and no big difference in sound, I never found, as Jeff pointed out, a 4000, over here, the 4002 and 4004 comes up frequently, but at the moment the prices are crazy.
Sonavor was refurbishing a BG 8000, and the direct drive got me hooked, Chartz told me if you buy a BG 8000, you will have to get a BM 8000 too.
As I have a lot to do items in stock, and more coming in. I decided to stop buying for the moment, (only the gods and the Beovirus knows for how long) and do my stock items before buying more. But I will continue searching for 4002 or 4004 and for sure for a 8000.
And Jeff: Fix that ground connection. No Hum is allowed.
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Hi Søren,
Always so very good to hear from you!
I’ve been fighting the BeoVirus as well, but as you know, there is NO known cure.
I don’t know what to say about your future Beogram. Lord knows that Martin has forgotten more about Beograms than I have ever known, but just having spent a brief period of time in my 4000, I don’t know that it is much more difficult to service than a 4002.
As you know, I love all my Beograms and they are all slightly different:
The Beogram 4002, that endless nightmare of adjustments that never seemed to end. Get the pickup placement right and it is wrong at the end of play. The arms come down too fast, then too slow. Oh I thought I’d lose my mind, but once I got it right, I haven’t to touch it since.
The Beogram 4004, the good Beogram. In 7 years, once I found the internal plug that popped out during shipment, I haven’t had a single problem with this little gem.
The Beogram 4000, the quantifying masterpiece that put B&O on the map. Aside from how busted up it was and let us not forget that I had to send it back to Martin in Denmark for a fuse, no less. The 4000 is special and I wish you had one.
The Beogram 8000, my original. They are great, get one.
The Beogram 8002, probably better than the 8000 in several ways, but I wouldn’t change one for the other.
As for the hum. Man, you don’t cut me any slack do you? Yea, I gotta deal with that. I kinda hoped that someone would tell me how best to do this. I would prefer to replace the entire cable with a new one, but failing that, if I don’t hear from anyone, I plan to cut open the existing cable hoping to find an unused wire going to the RCA plugs….. and that should be the ground. I hope.
Hi Jeff and Soren.
Soren and Jeff FYI, the Beogram 6000 early versions with AC motor are very similar to the 4000. They share the swiss made AC motor and heavy platter which make the 4000 seem so 'fluid' for want of a better term.
The main difference between the 4000 and 6000 (and early 4002) is the keyboard, the strobe, position marker and the fact that the 4000 uses contact switches to determine the position of the arm carriage rather than the 'special ruler' with its optical sensor. The contact switches have been criticized for making noise by some Beoworld'ers. I think B&O went to the rule to try and remove the necessity of extra contact between the arm carriage and the stationary switches. Aside from those differences, in my opinion, its much of a muchness between them. My 6000 spends much of its time running on a Marantz SR7002 amp which has no phono preamp, the one in the 6000 is magnificent and out performs my Parasound phono preamp which is worth about $400 - and it removes an extra component from the chain having the preamp in the Beogram. On my Beomaster 1900, the preamp in the 6000 outshines the one in the amp itself.
The early 4002's are the same as the 6000 but without the quad amplifier (unless it was added as an after purchase option).
The later 4002's and 4004's went to the DC motor as you know which meant they had to have a lighter platter. They had several major improvements such as putting IR on the special ruler rather than tungsten bulbs which would go out of alignment or blow, they removed the additional switch required to tell if the arm was lowered (which when it fails as they sometimes do, burns out the arm drop solenoid) and converted the detector arm and (I believe) the arm position sensor lamp to LED which results in a much improved life.
The early AC motor units (4000, 6000 and early 4002) feel better made, despite being heavier, when the arm drops it does so more gently, when the arm raises it comes up quickly but gently, on my DC 4002 the mechanism seems more abrupt, louder and when the arm raises it shoots up abruptly, both are adjusted correctly, it just seems the earlier models are more 'dampened' and better constructed for want of a better word.
Hope this helps anyone interested.
Piaf: As for the hum. Man, you don’t cut me any slack do you? Yea, I gotta deal with that. I kinda hoped that someone would tell me how best to do this. I would prefer to replace the entire cable with a new one, but failing that, if I don’t hear from anyone, I plan to cut open the existing cable hoping to find an unused wire going to the RCA plugs….. and that should be the ground. I hope.
Connect a wire from a screw on the steel chassis of the BG to steel chassis of the BM.
Wow, yes wow do you ever know your stuff! I have to agree with everything you said, word for word.
The DC motor and all the countless Swiss-made components do add up to a formidable turntable in the Beogram 4000. The strobe, and position marker are wonderful eye candy, but there is more to this turntable.
Unlike the 4002/4004, the Beogram 4000 has ONE switch for forward (not two, like the 4002/4004) and the harder you press, the faster the arm goes. Just one of so many niceties that set this turntable apart from the rest.
Keep up the excellent work….. I am interested, and no doubt, I am not alone.
Søren Mexico: Connect a wire from a screw on the steel chassis of the BG to steel chassis of the BM.
Small problem with that one, the Beogram 4000 is not connected to any Beomaster, as my BEST turntable it is connected to the McIntosh 2255.
Now the big Mac has an over-sized ground connection BUT I also have my Beogram 8002 grounded to the McIntosh. I have tried grounding two Beograms to one Beomaster with less than stellar results.
However, if you think it would work, I am more than willing to connect a screw from the bottom of the BM 4000 to a screw on the metal back of the McIntosh 2255.
Back home, I was glad to see that you had solved your problem. Well done!
Did you know that the 4000 can also play reverse groove records?
chartz: Back home, I was glad to see that you had solved your problem. Well done! Did you know that the 4000 can also play reverse groove records?
Hi Jacques,
Not only didn’t I know that the 4000 could play a reverse groove record, I also don’t know what a reverse groove record is.
Apparently something was gravely missing from my education.
Søren Mexico: Hi Jeff, Hi Andrew: I have here, BGs: 1202, 2404, 5000, RX, TX2, waiting for pick up in TX another RX (tonearm on the first one came bad), waiting for pick up in DK BG 1000. ( for sentimental reasons, was my first ever B&O buy) Was looking for a BG 4000, a classic, but after consulting Martin he told me to get a 4002 or 4004, easier to service and repair, and no big difference in sound, I never found, as Jeff pointed out, a 4000, over here, the 4002 and 4004 comes up frequently, but at the moment the prices are crazy. Sonavor was refurbishing a BG 8000, and the direct drive got me hooked, Chartz told me if you buy a BG 8000, you will have to get a BM 8000 too. As I have a lot to do items in stock, and more coming in. I decided to stop buying for the moment, (only the gods and the Beovirus knows for how long) and do my stock items before buying more. But I will continue searching for 4002 or 4004 and for sure for a 8000. And Jeff: Fix that ground connection. No Hum is allowed.
I am kind of, sort of changing my vote (advice). Listen to Martin, buy a 4002 or 4004.
I don’t know what to say about the Beogram 8000….. they are very good, just not all that pretty. Plus they growl with age with initial play and return….. at least mine does, and I have been told this is “normal.”
I am changing my vote as I managed to “disturb” my most beloved Beogram 4000 and now the return action is a micro second before the lift action. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!
That means the MMC20CL catches the last groove of the record before returning.
A minor adjustment, I just have to try to remember how to do it.
The 4002/4004 need this sort of adjustment, but just not as often.
Piaf:Did you know that the 4000 can also play reverse groove records?
Reverse groove records are made in Norway, also the Norwegian clocks goes "backwards"
Have had them all . They are all a bit tricky to service but the 4000 is clearly the worst. However the 4000, in common with most B&O, shows the benefits of being the first of its type. It is massively over engineered and is also (IMHO) by far the most beautiful. Later models were got at by the bean counters who stripped out the superfluous fripperies (That is for Martin!) and made the decks simpler. Did it make much difference to the sound? - In my experience none. But the 4000 is a Rolls Royce of turntables, feeling hewn from solid, whereas the later 4002 and 4004 are just excellent. I have never regretted getting a 4000 - even though it does need a different arm belt - I clearly have the wrong one as it lifts too soon on long records and its detector circuit has always been a bit iffy. One day i will go and visit Martin with my 4000, 4001 and 4004 and ask him to get them all working as they should! But till then, I will just enjoy them.
Peter: Have had them all . They are all a bit tricky to service but the 4000 is clearly the worst. However the 4000, in common with most B&O, shows the benefits of being the first of its type. It is massively over engineered and is also (IMHO) by far the most beautiful. Later models were got at by the bean counters who stripped out the superfluous fripperies (That is for Martin!) and made the decks simpler. Did it make much difference to the sound? - In my experience none. But the 4000 is a Rolls Royce of turntables, feeling hewn from solid, whereas the later 4002 and 4004 are just excellent. I have never regretted getting a 4000 - even though it does need a different arm belt - I clearly have the wrong one as it lifts too soon on long records and its detector circuit has always been a bit iffy. One day i will go and visit Martin with my 4000, 4001 and 4004 and ask him to get them all working as they should! But till then, I will just enjoy them.
Søren, I really admire your collection of turntables. Interesting and well thought out choices.
Peter, you really hit the nail on the head: The Beogram 4000 is indeed the Rolls-Royce of turntables and in the words of Frederick Henry Royce, “The best is the enemy of the good.” Everything about the Beogram 4000 speaks of the highest possible quality with little regard to cost, which is why I just had to have one.
Once the statement was made and the audio world took notice, the bean-counters got hold of the design and we got the 4002. As you said, there is little difference in the sound reproduction which IS the point of a turntable.
Still, the 4000 is a better turntable with the pressure sensitive left and right movement buttons, the strobe, which is handy, and the infinite amount of adjustments possible vis-à-vis the record speed, and weight of the platter.
Then there is the esthetics in that whereas the 4002/4004 are handsome, the 4000 is drop dead gorgeous.
Lastly, if one were not completely convinced as to the difference between the two turntables, just open them up, side by side, and the discussion will end. The over engineering is beyond impressive.
Yes, and go visit Martin, it is worth the little trip. Besides, Denmark is a beautiful country, well worth the voyage.
I just sold my most-treasured restored pristine BG4000, but only because I have located another non-working one.
For me, the greatest pleasure is restoring them, as opposed to actually owning them.
That's why I don't have a large collection. If I've worked on it, it's better than having owned it.
Menahem
Menahem Yachad: I just sold my most-treasured restored pristine BG4000, but only because I have located another non-working one. For me, the greatest pleasure is restoring them, as opposed to actually owning them. That's why I don't have a large collection. If I've worked on it, it's better than having owned it. Menahem
Hi Menahem,
Interesting passion you have, restoring Beogram 4000’s. While I like “messing” with mine, my greatest pleasure is when it works flawlessly…. which is thankfully the case, most of the time.
Tell you what, since you come of these treasures from time to time, if ever you find a 4000 that for one reason or another needs to be parted out AND has a near flawless correct dustcover, for goodness sakes, please keep me in mind.
I have polished my dust cover to the best of my ability and it is good, maybe even very good, but it isn’t remotely flawless.
I love my Beogram 4000 and I would really like to make it as good as is humanly possible.
I'll keep you in mind. But that's a tough order - I've already replaced 2 BG4000 covers with 4002 covers....Check out this last one.
Do you have any idea of the satisfaction when a previously dead or non-working BG tangential works flawlessly, after investing an average of about 20 hours of work? It's like an addiction
Of course, I know them like the back of my hand by now, so I have very few of those frustrating moments of not knowing what to do.....
Love them......
That's how I feel about loudspeakers, but nothing else. The greatest pleasure is in getting them back to working, especially a job like stuck P45 woofers. When the novelty is worn off, most listening ends up going back to the S45-2s.