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This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hope someone can give me a bit of help here. I recently aquired a CDX and a RX2 turntable for the princely sum of £55 at my local auction (cannot believe no-one esle knew what it was!)
The CDX had the common broken hinge issue but if the top was closed manually the CD played fine.
It sounded amazing I have to say (a direct comparison through a decent denon mini system and the sound from the CDX was infinately better than the CD within in the Denon) so I was determined to find the hinge and use it. After a lot fo fiddling (and thanks to the info from this site) I fixed the hinge. The plastic 'push rod' attached to the eject switch was also broken but I managed to fix that as well.
Problem now is that although the lid now closes as it should when you press play, it closes fully for 2 or 3 seconds, you can hear the CD tring to turn, but it doesnt then the lid pops up about a milimitre and the sound of movement inside stops. Pressing eject releases the mechinism but the lid does not lift and has to be pulled up manually. As soon as you press play again it goes down but repeats the same thing.
Very frustrating cos as I say the cd mechanisim was working fine before I got stuck in! Any ideas what is up or what i may have done? I have taken out all of the small multi pin plugs and re attached just in case I had inadvertantly loosened one, but no improvement. One thing I do notice is the little black 'magic eye' that the eject push rod slots into does not appear to do anything now although before I altered the hinge I tested this (with the broken push rod end) and this was working.
Any advice would be appreciated - or if you know of a decent repair person in teh notts leicester area?
Hi, and welcome!
First, you need the service manual, because there is a specific procedure to adjusting the lid.
A bad adjustment here will prevent the CD from being played at all.
Also, you don't say how you fixed what you fixed exactly. Pictures here are almost mandatory for us to see. So it makes it difficult for us to tell you what you missed or possibly did wrong!
Another thing to consider in any Philips player: bad solder joints, especially around the PSU - this gets pretty hot - and all the ground through PCB solder links (griplets in Philips language).
You might also want to replace electrolytic capacitors. Basically, if you are unable to test them, replacing them all is good practice.
Many things can go wrong, but whatever you do, don't ever touch the CDM!
Jacques
Dear Jacques
Many thanks for your help . I will try to post some pics tomorrow but I fixed the hinge using the method described by medogsfat on this site. This worked brilliantly but getting the whoel mechanism back in place was a fiddle and I fear I may have disturbed something (micro switch for example).
I will have a look at the PSU - there certainly is some 'heat discolouration' on the circuit board next to this, but as I say this must have been like this before when it was spinning. I am sure you are right on the adjustment side of things as I removed the plastic adjustment screw to be able to take out the push rod/hinge assembly - so clearly will not have gone back in exactly as before so will look at that. I adjusted this by eye when I put it back together but the ervice manual suggests this can only be done once the whiole this is back together.
Will let you know.
Craig
PS what is the CDM?!
The CD Mechanism (transport). Here a CDM1 made by Philips, which will virtually last forever.
Many thanks - I assumed thsi was what you meant. I am waiting delivery of a torq driver (my set is too thgink to get down the tiny tunnel to teh adjustment screw) and will try adjustment and let you know.
Many thnaks