ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hello,
I came across this wonderful forum while looking for a solution to my problem:A while ago I purchased a Beogram 3000 (Type 5228). The player itself was not in the best optical condition but since it was relatively cheap I wanted to give it a try.
After some cleaning I tested it only to find out that one channel was dead. I organized another SP-10 pickup to check on the original stylus – the problem remained. Then I checked all the cables using a meter and found something: one of the two cables for the channels between the black socket of the tonearm (where the stylus connects to the tonearm) and the point where it is soldered to the circuit-board (?) inside the player is at fault. I'm suspecting the connection between the cable and the socket and therefore would like to remove the socket in order to check on it. My question: is there any trick on how to remove socket without using brute force?
Many thanks in advance!Best regards, Matthias
Welcome to Beoworld !
A bad connection like this is almost always inside the DIN plug.Open the plug and check inside. If it's still the original plug, the grey plasticwill slide up the cable if helped a little over the small plastic lock.
Martin
If the 3000 is as I remember, there is a small screw fastening the socket on the underside of the tonearm. Remove that and the socket should slide right out. Just don't use brute force...
Sometimes the contact plates inside the socket just lose touch and a little bending is all it takes. However, just last week I fixed a Beogram where the wiring actually broke on the pivot point of the tonearm. Rewiring is not that hard, though.
Thanks Martin and ablaumeise for your Answers.Regarding the DIN plug: When I got the player, the original DIN plug was removed and extended with an additional cable with another DIN plug (to make the cable longer). I removed that "extension" and added a brand new DIN plug at the end of the original cable. So the new plug itself should not be the problem because the problem was there before I changed it (that was the reason to do so in the first place).I was able to remove the socket (thanks ablaumeise for the hint) after carefully rotating it with the old stylus back and forth. It was somewhat stuck at first but came loose after a while. I cleaned it carefully and checked the cables with the meter but they appeared to be fine. While I was at it I bent the contact plates a little as well.Still the problem with the dead channel remains. I will have another look at the player next weekend.Even though I changed the needle it could be that both have lost a channel. If so is it common to loose the same one? I still have a third brand new needle that is currently in it's original packing (and I am not eager to unpack it already but I apparently have to do so …).In case I am going to rewire the tonearm, could you tell me what cables you used and where you got them, ablaumeise?
The SP cartridges are not commonly known to lose channels.Most faults of this nature are found in the signal cables, solders and plugs.Put an ohmmeter to the signal path from the cartridge socket to the DIN socket.Remember that the deck should be in play mode or the mute function will short bth channels to ground (and eachother).
Did you measure directly from where the wiring from the tonearm (not the DIN-Plug!) connects to the board? As Martin said, the "silent switch" sometimes loses contact, too.
Also try cleaning the pins on your cartridge. I used simple enameled copper wire for the rewiring. No audible difference to the original shielded wire, most later Beograms also used only copper wire.
when you say one channel is dead, it could be loose suspension that causes distortion and that one channel is sounding different from the other. This normally means the voice coil is open and is a big problem.
If one channel is completely dead it does normally ( usually ) mean cabling is at fault on B&O kit, but there is a simple test to find out if the cartridge is defective or if the cable is bad.
1) find out which speaker is not playing.2) Then stop the 3000 and take the cartridge out and put it back in, BUT upside down. That means the diamond tip is now facing up
3) find any old record to put on the 3000 and press PLAY
4) let the tone arm drop and the mute relay click. Now with your finger tip gently touch the tip of the stylus. You should hear a noise from one of the speakers.
5) If you hear the noise from the same channel that was working, that means the cartridge is fine and the cabling needs looking at
6) If the channel that was not working before is making a noise, then you have a broken cartridge.
Ouverture,
You mean well and those are fine tricks to help diagnosing but the Beogram 3000 (5228) has theold round type tonearm and the SP cartridge will not fit upside down.The upside down trick will only work with the MMC1-5 cartridge range.
thanks for correcting me Martin, of course the 3000 uses SP carts, stupid me !
Hello everyone!
In the meantime I was able to fix my problem with the dead channel. I cleaned all the contacts (lift-Button, the relay in the middle of the player and the contacts for the cables) with the help of some anti oxidation spray and a q-tip and voilà the problem was finally gone.
I still have to work on the dust cover (some cleaning and polishing) but that can wait for now. Anyone any experience on how to refurbish the teak veneer?
Attached a picture of the player finally fulfilling its purpose. Thanks everyone for the help!
mgrottendieck:Attached a picture of the player finally fulfilling its purpose. Thanks everyone for the help!
Good job, nice pic, and now go shopping for BM 3000-2, and maybe corresponding speakers
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
mgrottendieck:Anyone any experience on how to refurbish the teak veneer?
If the veneer is without bigger damages, just sand with 200 grain until clean, the sand with 400 grain, soak with boiled linseed oil (Danish oil), leave for 1 hour, wipe of excess, leave 24 hours, sand again lightly with 400 grain, soak with oil, leave for 1 hour, wipe of excess, leave 24 hours, polish with dry lint free rag, done.
Soren, have you ever considered Tung oil ? It is supposed to give a more stable finish but needs to be applied over a longer time.I had some internal doors made and will be trying it on them. I have used boiled linseed oil on older (1930) doors to feed the wood after chemically stripping them.
None of my classic b & o has needed its woodwork refinishing so no experience except above.