ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi All,
I recently obtained a Beomaster 6000 Quad (2702) from ebay in non working condition. Geoff has helped me open it up and he gave me a lot of general advice (thank you very much!), so I had a look:
I posted more pictures on my blog (http://beolover.blogspot.com). The last several entries focus on the 6000. The good news is that the unit seems to work electronically as far as I can tell.
The damage report so far is this:
All five belts are gone.
The coupling between motor and potentiometer assembly is deteriorated.
Many light bulbs do not work.
The signal strength meter does not work, even if the tuner has a strong stereo signal, and the S-lamps are bright and equally lit.
The tuning 'string' has a knot in a position where it bothers the motion of the frequency indicator belt.
The tuner wheel pulley is broken out of its bearing, i.e. it came out with the wheel when I removed the nut at the bottom that holds the shaft in the pulley:
It appears there may be a part missing that connects the pulley to the bearing.
The front speaker jacks have lost their wings that hold them in the cutouts of the chassis:
Any help and suggestions regarding fixing these issues (and some spare parts...;-) would be much appreciated!
Best Regards,
Rudy
http://beolover.blogspot.com
http://beolover.com
I am happy to post already a first update:
Geoff sent me a pic showing the tuning wheel bottom end, and it made clear that my Beomaster is only missing a retaining clip to properly seat the pulley in its bracket. The bearing was stuck at the bottom end giving me the impression that there is something missing...pictures are posted here.
Bold project Rudy!
I have always wanted a 6000 quad to match my Beocord 5000... But they are rare in good condition. Or horribly expensive when they do turn up!
Jacques
Yes. Quite exciting! I actually was able to make some progress: I got the replacement belts from McMaster and put them in. I posted the details of the process on my blog. Here is a pic after I was done:
Unfortunately, it appears that the V-shaped retaining clips for the indicator tapes cannot be used anymore, they are very brittle. One broke immediately when I tried to put it back into its groove...If anyone has a great idea for a suitable replacement, I would be most grateful! The journey goes on!
Hi There,
I am happy to report that I made a bit of progress on the tuner cord side of things. Geoff guided me towards fixing the pulley issue (thank you very much!). A 5 mm external retaining ring from McMaster fixed it. After putting in the cord, I understand now why the pulley groove is a bit below the main potentiometer wheel...below is a picture after putting the cord (50lbs braided fishing line). I posted more detail and a ***tutorial video*** (recently learned how to make videos...;-) on my blog: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/04/beomaster-6000-4-channel-tuner-cord.html. Enjoy!
Great video. I hope you continue with them throughout your project.
Thanks for sharing your work,Sonavor
I've been watching this restoration with interest as I need to tackle mine at some stage. The video of the dial cord was really useful.
Keep going! Any ideas on the 'V' clips yet? Maybe find someone with a 3D printer.
Dave.
A 3D printer might work. I had a friend with access to a 3D printer make me a replacement knob for a vintage amplifier. The result required a little finishing work on it but I am happy with the results. This could be a good application of it.
I love this thread, because this was my first Beolove back in 1978.
Happy Easter, all.
/***
http://tinyurl.com/qj9cjsf
Yes! Definitely a Beolove! Unfortunately, like in any intense love affair there are sometimes painful moments!
In my case this meant that I recently accidentally fried the rear right output stage. Stupid me! I used an only partially insulated screwdriver to adjust the quiescent current, and during the adjustment I slipped out of the trimmer and briefly connected the lower biasing network resistor to ground via the U-profile that holds the circuit board, which, announced by a little spark, promptly killed the push-pull stage. The result: Potential cuff links...see below...;-).
I posted the details of my recovery from this disaster on my blog at: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/04/beomaster-6000-4-channel-output.html
I also made a video about the repair procedure: http://youtu.be/EWaO1C8dKQU
Enjoy!
Phew Rudy! It's all so tight in here... Ah the screwdriver mistake followed by a total mess! Rings a bell or two...
Nice work then. Your videos are superbly explicit too, and you should be warmly thanked by our community.
However I think that you should replace the no-load (quiescent) current trimmers. An unnecessary risk!
Excellent advice! Today, I replaced them with 25-turn types. I like how they fit in between the 100n caps...;-).
Details at my blog at: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/05/beomaster-6000-4-channel-trimmer.html
Keep up the great work. I am really getting the urge to find a Beomaster 6000 (quad) of my own to work on now.
-sonavor
Well done Rudy!
Sorry for having sewn the seeds of doubt, but you can now sleep on both ears
And get rid of those cobwebs between the fins!
Time for another update! While playing with the output amplifier, I could not help noticing the almost daily noticeable worsening condition of my recently installed O-rings in the motor unit. The Buna N rings from McMaster apparently are not able to withstand the tensile strain after installation. Here is a picture of the dying Buna N rings:
A sad moment...this meant I had to do everything again. I read up on o-rings and it turns out that EPDM rubber is the material of choice for drive belt applications. I was able to find the correct size at TheOringStore.com. I installed everything again...I made another video about the entire procedure. It is posted on my beolover YouTube channel at: http://youtu.be/tvzT4PIxKOo
Further details about the O-rings etc...are in my corresponding blog entry: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/05/beomaster-6000-4-channel-rebuilding.html
BTW: I was able to 3D print replacement clips for anchoring the indicator bands to the potentiometer wheels. This worked fairly well...Though I did have to Dremel the printing related grates off to prevent damage to the bands. Here is a pic of the new clips...I thought yellow makes a nice contrast with the purple potentiometer wheels...;-).
Another nice, instructional video. That is really great how the 3D printer was able to reproduce the clips. Great work.
I've got 2 6000 Quads to look at and the video and this thread are a great help. Not all of my ideas work but I'm glad the 3D printing helped with the clips. As you will have the file to make these, any chance us fellow Beoworlders who will encounter the same problem can have a set?
Keep going.
Yes of course...It will be my pleasure to supply some clips if yours are brittle. Just send me an email at beolover<at>gmail.com. I also posted the STL file for the clips on my website at www.beolover.com. Just follow the menus under 'restoration and repair'. You should be able to print the file at any local 3D printing shop (they are probably mushrooming somewhere near you, they definitely do around here...;-). If they have ABS as material, I would probably prefer it over PLA as it is more elastic and temperature resilient etc....
I live in rural France where they haven't even heard of 3D TV let alone 3D printing! I may be able to get my son in Birmingham to print some at Uni.
I'll look back through your site - I have been looking at it regularly.
Tut-tut!
I live in a rural area too and we know all about those things!
Rudy's weblog is an excellent reference, and he should be warmly thanked.
I couldn't open the STL file. I'm guessing I need some free open source software?
I am using Inventor by Autodesk. Educators/students get it for free...if that does not work for you, you can try Google SketchUp...never used it, but I heard a lot of good things about it...no problem to send you a set of clips. I printed a few more. You may also find that you do not need them...maybe my Beomaster was just stored in a hot place or similar causing the plastic to degrade - I have no idea about its history since it came from ebay.
Another idea: Download the Makerbot software...you can directly load the file into it and look at it, but not modify it.
About the o-rings: they are either an old stock, or come from a bad asian source. Those cracks say "old" to me. Get your money back!
Time to celebrate!! The 6000 is back in service! I finally put it back together and set it up with my Beogram 4004 and a Beocord 5000 (not working right now, but looking sharp...;-). And everything seems to work! What a beautiful design!
Some more impressions are on my blog: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/10/beomaster-6000-4-channel-first-test.html
Great job Rudy and well done.
Next in-line is a retoration blog on the Beocord 5000 and very good luck withthat one! Seeing it all set-up as it should be inspires me to do likewise. I have all of the components and remote but they are spread out as I haven't a long enough space to put them all together!
Looks great Harry. You need a lot of space for that 6000. (and correct lifting technique )
Nice!
When you tackle your Beocord 5000, I'll be around as well. I have two of those, both working and not chewing any tapes!
chartz: Nice! When you tackle your Beocord 5000, I'll be around as well. I have two of those, both working and not chewing any tapes!
Ditto on that. I also have one of the 47xx type Beocord 5000 decks I want to restore.
HarryPierce: Time to celebrate!! The 6000 is back in service! I finally put it back together and set it up with my Beogram 4004 and a Beocord 5000 (not working right now, but looking sharp...;-). And everything seems to work! What a beautiful design! Some more impressions are on my blog: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/10/beomaster-6000-4-channel-first-test.html Enjoy! Rudy
So very nice! This is my absolute favorite!
Yep, the 5000 must work, too! Just ebayed a service manual for my 4716 type. Were does one get the belts?
Thanks!
HarryPierce: Yep, the 5000 must work, too! Just ebayed a service manual for my 4716 type. Were does one get the belts? Thanks! Rudy
Most likely Martin.
Yes, try Bonanza.
Hi Jacques,
I found your posts from 2013 at http://www.audiovintage.fr/leforum/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=45094
Do you have some more pics of the disassembly steps to get to the main belt (the one you show in the posted video clip). I definitely need to replace this one. My downloaded manual is missing a few inches from the exploded views, i.e. it is difficult to follow the list of steps in disassembly section.
Nice pic of your bench on that blog...when was that? BTW: I also have a A77 - used to be my main tape deck when I was a kid...definitely a 'bon ami'...;-)
Thanks in advance!
I have an original, hard-copy of the 47xx service manual if you need a page rescanned. Looking at that service manual again, I remembered that the manual calls out seven Bang & Olufsen adjustment tools in the Beocord 5000 adjustment procedures. I have never seen any of those tools for sale. Has anyone tried to reproduce them? Are there easy workarounds so they are not needed? Or, are the adjustments skipped?-sonavor
Hi Sonavor,
I was thinking about these tools! I could probably make 3D printed/laser cut reproductions of the tools if someone had them and could loan them to me for a week (or send me some precise drawings/measurements). I'd be happy to post the design files for everybody to use.
Thanks for offering to scan the manual page...if it is not too much of an effort, I am lacking the far right end of the exploded drawing of the mechanism (after pg. 1-4 in the download I have)
But I should get my original manual sometime next week from Canada...seems the seller already put it in the mail...just got impatient, so I proceeded with the one that is widely available on the net...
sorry...I meant I am lacking the left side of the exploded drawing.
Hi Rudy,
I too have the original manual, with the bit you miss.
Very difficult to describe with words, you really need the views. I should have taken more pictures, sorry.
I'll email you the scans today (edit: done!).
Next step, pull up the PCB at left. Unscrew the solenoid at the front, the two screws underneath. There is a connector at the rear of the mechanism, it is tight! Then hopefully the whole mech can be removed.
Do be careful when you turn the deck around, the PCBs are on the fragile side. Make sure the command panel is secured with all three screws (I see you haven't done that).
A word of warning: there will be two small steel balls under the carriage and they want to live their own separate lives, away from you!
The special tools aren't needed provided you don't mess about with the original settings—or somebody else didn't
By the way, the worshop picture is from a B&O catalogue brochure... If it were me, how old would I be?
Good point that with the age consideration...;-). My French is spotty at best...;-). I got your email. Thanks much, very helpful! Now I have more clarity.
Great idea to bolt the command panel on reverse...see below.
One question, though: I did not entirely get your comment about the 'small steel balls under the carriage'...are they alignment balls that align the recorder mechanism relative to the enclosure?
HarryPierce:One question, though: I did not entirely get your comment about the 'small steel balls under the carriage'...are they alignment balls that align the recorder mechanism relative to the enclosure?
--mika