ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi All,
I recently started restoring a Beomaster 8000, and it turned out that it had a broken link to the controls lid damper. I 3D printed a fairly well-fitting replacement with a Makerbot II.
I printed a few more, i.e. if anyone needs this part...beolover@gmail.com
Details as usual on my blog: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/06/beomaster-8000-3d-printed-controls-lid.html
Enjoy!
Rudy
http://beolover.blogspot.com
http://beolover.com
It is interesting to see 3D printing starting to come into play in vintage audio restorations. How did you make your model of the original part?
-sonavor
Hi Harry Pierce,
Congrats for your work around the 8000, it looks fine.
I am discovering 3D printing and wondering if this tech could be used to build up the following part I am looking for.
It is the "preset frequency cover" missing on my recently restored Beomaster 3000 and Beomaster 4000. It seems to be the same part on the Beomaster 4400.
If yes what is needed for doing so?
Thanks a lot
Alain
Excellent work!
//Bo.A long list...
Hi Alain,
no need for 3D printing for the preset cover. Get an old Cassette housing and proceed here.
Hope it helps :)
Ralph-Marcus
I suggested 3D printing a while ago for a part for a BM6000 restoration and I'm glad it's taking off for some of these 'no longer available' parts
3D printing hasn't really taken off where I live - unlike in the UK where you can now find 3D print shops on the high street. I contemplated buying a 3D printer and setting up an online 'shop' to print items such as these. There must be a massive market for something like this!
Maybe if more Beoworld members create these parts, they can either offer extra parts for repairs by other members, or make the files avialable for others to use - possibly on a B&O 3D part database..
Dave.
And one more link to the archived forum to a different thread.
It would be nice to print the BM3000/4400 preset cover! I could easily produce a STL file for it (I have a 3000 that came with the cover). There are some companies that now offer clear prints...this definitely needs a more professional printer than a Makerbot II...the issue is that the surface of an optically clear object needs to be very smooth, i.e. the printed material needs to be liquid at the point of deposition. The printers that can do this right now work more like inkjets.
I hit another issue with a Beomaster 8000 that I am currently restoring: The signal meter does not work. I unsoldered it and measured the resistance. It is open circuit, i.e. something came loose inside.
I was wondering, if anyone had some experience with opening it up and checking things out and could give me some advice...
Thanks much in advance!
BTW: To follow up on the previous discussion about 3D printing the Beomaster 3000 preset cover: I made a 3D model of the one I have and sent it to a few stereolithography (SL) companies for pricing. It would be possible to have it printed clear with SL, but the cost would be about $150+S/H...I guess we have to wait a few more years until the prices come down. Also a question that looms is the mechanical stability of the SL prints...they may be slightly brittle, i.e. this may be an expensive experiment...
Hi,
Well in my experience, if they are open circuit they are toast. The only ones I managed to repair had a loose magnet, but the coils were fine.
By the way, those Mundorfs are available in Europe too, England, France and possibly Germany too. Seems a shame to order that far away.
Anyway, the customer rules, but they won't improve the receiver's sound in any way! Total waste of money.
Jacques
hmm...this is too encouraging...I take it you opened it up to fix the magnet issue? Is there anything to be nervous about when opening it up?
Mundorfs: I like their 3000 hrs 125C rating...it gets warm back there. I am in Tampa, i.e. it was convenient to get them from Canada.
Thanks for your input!
Yes you can open it. The major risk actually is breaking off the coil leads!
Why on earth did I think you were in Germany?
Here a quick update on my current Beomaster 8000 restoration:
Martin supplied a pristine signal strength meter (Thanks!!), i.e. this is working now. Details and a video here: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/08/beomaster-8000-replacement-of-broken.html
Then I focused at the main reservoir caps. I ended up putting in Japanese caps. The $25/piece Mundorfs had to go back since they were out of spec (7400 uF, 22-26 mOhm). I hope that is just a bad batch. I matched the smaller 35x50mm form factor of the Japanese caps with 3D printed adapters that gave them the same size as the original ones. See pic below. More details at: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/08/beomaster-8000-replacing-main-reservoir.html
Hi Rudy, I really enjoyed watching your videoinstruction but there's one thing I've noticed. Did you do any ESD precautions cause I didn't see you wearing ESD wriststrap?
Brengen & Ophalen
Hi Leslie:
I wear the strap on my ankle, keeps things more organized while shooting video...;-).
Here is another update:
I designed laser-cut adapters allowing the use of modern encapsulated switches as speaker switches in the 8000.
Details at at my blog: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/08/beomaster-8000-replacement-of-speaker.html
I am having an interesting phenomenon in an otherwise well-working Beomaster 8000. It will not turn the outputs on when switched back on within a 10-50 sec window after turning it off. This effect only occurs when the speakers are disconnected, or the speaker switches are in off position. I did some measurements, which show that it is the 'fault switch' circuit that is responsible for this. For details, see my latest blog entry at:
http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/09/beomaster-8000-standby-issue.html
I was wondering if anybody had found a solution for this, or at least knew the root-cause for the transient signal at the fault switch.
Thanks!
Great works Harry! 3D printing is the wave of the future and I see it as a prototyping tool for restoring artefacts and vintage cars. We've been playing around with our Makerbot II. Some of our latest 3D printed models are car parts and a Lightning McQueen toy car for my son. Anyways, you used black PLA right? Have you also tried this high grade PLA filament? Some of my colleagues say that this is better than the standard PLA.
Hi Miguel,
PLA prints much better on the Makerbots...less warping, no need to heat the build volume etc...
ABS is really only worthwhile if you want to print multicolor, or you need something that can withstand >90C temperatures....
Cheers,
Hi Guys:
Another 3D printing effort. I fixed a broken Beomaster 8000 Phono jack that lost its tabs with two 3D printed inserts that fully restore its functionality (and looks at least almost...;-):
Details and a video as usual on my blog: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/09/beomaster-8000-repair-of-broken-phono.html
The STL file for the part is on www.beolover.com with printing instructions.
Excellent! Get me two of those please!
Rudy you are the Master of the Masters.
Yes. Of course! I can get a few more printed. I'll be happy to supply them. Just send me an email to beolover@gmail.com.
A brief update: I redesigned my laser cut speaker switch adapters for a more satisfying fit without the need for glue. I also made them from thinner plexiglass to avoid the Dremel thinning-step...Details at my blog:
http://beolover.blogspot.com/2014/10/beolover-8000-speaker-switch.html
Here is a little update on my recent progress in the Beomaster 8000 department: I recently refined my method to restore the damping of the volume wheel. I am now using a 3D printed 'paddle wheel' together with damping grease to affect the damping. More details on my blog.
Here is a picture of the stereolithography part:
Thought I would share this one on my 8000 thread: I created another 3D printed part for the 8000. Three weeks ago I had the strange occurrence that the spring of the control panel lid broke out spontaneously, sending a piece of plastic shrapnel past my head, while I was sitting next to the unit...never knew that Beoloving could be dangerous!!...;-)
Here is the link: http://beolover.blogspot.com/2015/05/beomaster-8000-broken-out-control-panel-lid-spring.html
And a couple pictures:
Very nice one, Rudy
Soon we'll have a completely 3D printed Beomaster 8000
As an aside, I also admire your work on the Beogram 4000.
A good time to thank you ruby, I followed your blog step by step for weeks on end to fix up my bm8000 with great success , has been performing brilliantly for a couple months now thanks
and until reading this without the use of safety googles😂
thankyou it's been invaluable
Jason
and a special thankyou to Martin for doing the led displays which is the only part I chickened out of doing
This is great! I am glad you got your 8000 up to spec! Beolove is in the air...
Here is another interesting part I recently developed for the 8000: SMD LED boards as replacements for the indicator light bulbs:
http://beolover.blogspot.com/2015/04/beomaster-8000-display-repair-iii.html
Picture:
Very nice indeed, and professional looking ,
I had followed your first fix with red LEDs and resistor and currenty doing the same on the beocord 9000 , I'd been toying with using white then making some replacement plastic filter covers in either white or green to match the green on the beocord display that I thought may look good