ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi to all, I am a new owner of a Beogram 6000 from 77. Very happy, all was working perfectly until... 2 problems came up. To avoid creating any new ones, I am reaching out to you.
When I press the play button:
1 - Everything lights up and the tray moves toward the plater but the motor starts rotating only for a split second before stopping. when the tray comes back to its original position and all turns off, the motor rotates a split second again. In between. Nothing...
2 - When the arm reach the platter the arm lowers even without any vinyl there (per problem 1, the platter stands still anyway)
In your opinion what could it be? I would incriminate the main capacitors (next to the motor). whatever the fix, can anyone tell me what to buy to replace? I am in Dubai with my beloved system and have little access to anybody knowing vintage stuff.
Thank you
Problem 1 is the key.Something is preventing the electronics from locking the power to the motor drive circuit.You will have to diagnose a bit.Is your deck an AC or DC motor version?
Problem 2 is caused by problem 1.The electronics look for the radial streaks running under the sensorarm.If no radial streaks (sensor pulses) are seen, the presence of a record is assumed.It will be fine again when problem 1 has been repaired and the platter is rotating.
Martin
Thanks for the quick 1st diagnose Martin.
I would not be able to confirm if it is AC or DC, my beogram is a 6000 type 5502. If that helps getting the answer.
QD: I would not be able to confirm if it is AC or DC.
I would not be able to confirm if it is AC or DC.
Safe to say, you will not be the one to repair this, then...And don't get me wrong, but this is not a simple deck, good electronic skills will be needed to diagnose and repair this - and sometools and instruments.
Serial number lower or higher than 260028?
I will not be the one repairing, but as skills are limited on vintage where I live (Dubai) I want to give as much guidance as possible.
I will limit myself to a simple intervention if it is.
Serial is 261455
It's an AC motor version.
Check the SO switch. It can sometimes lose its little plastic head or its small square spring plate. Check that it opens and closes correctlyas the carriage hits it.Check also that 0TR1 opens and stays open during PLAY. If it doesn't, check the circuit around 1TR1, 1D1, 1D2, 1D3.
Thanks Martin. Before I take it out to somebody with these instructions, I checked the SO switch, seems all is fine on this side. Now it is getting tougher with my little knowledge : where may I find 0TR1, not good at reading the diagram... A picture of where it is and how to check how it stays open would help.
Thank you again
0TR1 is the series regulator transistor (and power switch) to the motor supply.The 0 in the designation indicates, that it doesn't sit on a numbered PCB module.
Thus it would be the main capacitors sitting next to the motor ?
Thank you.
Filter and reservoir capacitors, yes, and also the phase shift cap for the motor.
Hello Martin,
Thank you for all the help, I found a competent technician, but I need to purchase the components myself. Can you tell me what are the references of the capacitors I need to purchase? especially voltage.
I noted the following:
- 2 main 4700uF Decoupling caps with Panasonic TSHA units (what voltage? 50V)
- the motor phase cap with a Nichicon 220uF Bipolar unit (16V?) and the 3rd 4700uF Decoupling cap with a Nichicon HE unit (25V?)
Isn't the original phase cap 150uF?
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Hi Martin,
I am still having a hard time finding the replacement parts:
The 2 main 4000uF 50V. DCW decoupling caps: cannot find any replacement parts that match these specs, by which can I replace? adapted specs and right size...
The motor phase cap that is indeed a 150uF 10v RMS capacitor, can I purchase the following one ?
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KEMET/A758EK157M1AAAE016?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YfL%252bxXsiOqZaPf1sdzpTvzY%3d
And finally the 4000 uf decoupling cap 25VDC can I replace by the following one ?
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UBY1E472MHL1TN?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YcvtqSXMoJz5jtmVxrUo%252bjM%3d
Thanks again
The 150uF:No. It has to be a bipolar type. It's used for an AC motor (phase-shifting).
The 4000uF:Note, that both 25V and 50V types are used in your Beogram.I suggest you fit some good quality 4700uF 40V and 50V types respectively.(And they really should be named filter/reservoir capacitors rather than decouplers, since theywork in the power supply circuits, not in signal handling).
for the the 150uF 15V bi-polar, it seems it is exotic... cannot find it anywhere, what could be the alternative? Can I go for a 220uF?
https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UEP1A221MPD?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YXDvQfnFeOrVVMtgTw5gIZs%3d
Or should I go for 100uF ?
I don't think the service manual states the tolerance on the 150uF capacitor but usually the designers use 20% if not stated. That means a capacitance value range of 120uF to 180uF would be within the design. So a 220uF bipolar is beyond the spec.
Instead, you could make a 150uF bipolar from two standard value, polarized, electrolytic capacitors. Use a 330uF and a 270uF (common sizes). Connect them in series where you join the each capacitor negative lead together. You will then be left with the two positive leads as your bipolar capacitor connection. Connecting capacitors in series results in a capacitance value of 1 divided by ( 1/C1 + 1/C2 ). So you end up with a capacitance of 148.2uF in this case. Note that you could also do it the opposite way and connect the two positive leads together leaving the two negative leads as the connection points. Either way should work.
- Or a 100uF bipolar and a 47uF bipolar in parallel.
- But I strongly suggest you diagnose and repair the current fault before upgrading and rebuilding.You may introduce new faults that would make it more difficult to repair the deck, and faults from "natural" causes aregenerally far easier to diagnose.
Hi Martin, I change all the capacitors following your precious guidelines. Unfortunately it did not solve the issue... no new fault has appeared, but my motor it still not running. Where would you suggest me to look next?
Thanks for your support.
Quentin
You never told us, if the transistor was ok.The one I suggested you check.
Indeed, can I ask you to help me by telling me where to find it physically inside the deck? the 0TR1 transistor is not on a circuit board: according to the service manual all the "0" components are near the motor, or is it somewhere else?
Than you for replying to my beginner questions