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There is no available Service Manual for the BeoCenter 9000, so I am operating blind.
I need to know where the C2103 is located and how best to get at it? The archives reveal it is on the servo board. So where is the servo board?
Any direction will be appreciated.
Jeff
Beogram 4000, Beogram 4002, Beogram 4004, Beogram 8000, Beogram 8002, Beogram 1602. Beogram 4500 CD player, B&O CDX player, Beocord 4500, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 8004, Beocord 9000, Beomaster 1000, Beomaster 1600, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 4400, Beomaster 4500, Beolab 5000, Beomaster 5000, BeoCenter 9000. BeoSound Century, S-45.2, S-45.2, S-75, S-75, M-75, M-100, MC 120.2 speakers; B&O Illuminated Sign (with crown & red logo). B&O grey & black Illuminated Sign, B&O black Plexiglas dealer sign, B&O ash tray, B&O (Orrefors) dealer award vase, B&O Beotime Clock. Navy blue B&O baseball cap, B&O T-shirt X2, B&O black ball point pen, B&O Retail Management Binder
The servo board is bolted to the underside of the CD mechanism.
C2103 is clearly marked on the board. It is a Pilips Blue Electrolytic capacitor 33 UFarads/!6 volt. You will find it running parallel to the big chip.
It must be repaced with an identical component from the same manufacturer. Dillen can send you one included in a kit designed to replace all of the electrolytic caps on the board.
It is easier to order from Dillen than to try to source locally.
Regards Graham
Thank you Graham,
I really appreciate the information.
I can open up the BeoCenter 9000, no problem, and I can see the CD mechanism. However as I am just an amateur at this, is there anything I need to know about taking out the CD mechanism?
A step by step would be most helpful. At this point I don’t care if you tell me to unscrew four screws and it comes out, then at least I will know what I am doing. Sure, I will feel stupid, but I don’t want to break anything.
I am not good at step by step but I am sure Soren or somebody will be along soon to do one for you.
Basically you need to release the plastic suspension carrier at the right or inner end of the CD mech (2 screws) and lift the mech out, complete with cables. If I remember, the cables are slightly different depending on 14 or 16 bit mechs.
Forgive me as I have not done a 9000 for well over 5 years having moved to the slightly different 9500 and the like.
Jeff, now we are talking, My way to do it, when opening an item for the first time is to take good pics of each step. Second: Check, which screws holds what, which wires, cables and plugs goes with the piece to come out, if more wires or plugs, mark them. then unplug and loosen all wires if possible, before unscrewing the holding screws. After loosening and lifting out, check for more wires,plugs and what else may still hold it or is connected. Just go on slowly step by step, take pics, keep all screws and smaller items in a box, if needed 1 box for each unit, just keep everything organized, then its a lot easier to put it together again.
As Graham mentioned, Martin has kits, so if you have to change one cap, change all that Martin recommends, dont end up with a job half done.
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Just did one and it's alive! Number 7.....
Brengen & Ophalen
Jus a few penny's for one cap!
Leslie: Just did one and it's alive! Number 7.....
Lucky you
Søren Mexico: Jeff, now we are talking, My way to do it, when opening an item for the first time is to take good pics of each step. Second: Check, which screws holds what, which wires, cables and plugs goes with the piece to come out, if more wires or plugs, mark them. then unplug and loosen all wires if possible, before unscrewing the holding screws. After loosening and lifting out, check for more wires,plugs and what else may still hold it or is connected. Just go on slowly step by step, take pics, keep all screws and smaller items in a box, if needed 1 box for each unit, just keep everything organized, then its a lot easier to put it together again. As Graham mentioned, Martin has kits, so if you have to change one cap, change all that Martin recommends, dont end up with a job half done.
The pertinent information has been sent to Martin with backup photos.
Leslie, my BeoCenter 9000 is also still alive, but I have to comment these BeoCenters were never intended to be worked on by amateurs like myself…. especially as they age.
When you open up the BeoCenter, the adhesive holding the two glass panels has long since been rendered useless and they literally fly off. I caught one and then the other one went flying.
Then once inside the CD player is clearly visible but of the four screws holding it in place, only 2 are exposed. The remaining 2 are hidden under a plastic cover which much be removed with care as aging plastic breaks.
That said, it all went well and nothing was broken. Now all I have to do is wait for Martin’s kit and replace the erring capacitor, which will be relatively easy now that I know how to get at the CD player.
You can imagine my joy when everything was put back together and everything still worked.
Piaf: There is no available Service Manual for the BeoCenter 9000, so I am operating blind. I need to know where the C2103 is located and how best to get at it? The archives reveal it is on the servo board. So where is the servo board? Any direction will be appreciated. Jeff
At least now you and others know where the servo board and C2103 is, that was my intention showing you the pictures. That was your question wasn't it?
The CD assembly is fixed with just two 2 screws located on the left side. Once removed the CD can be taken out.
Søren Mexico: Leslie: Just did one and it's alive! Number 7..... Lucky you
I am
What pictures? Did I miss them?
Picasa
Excellent photos Leslie.
Some defective capacitors still measure 33 uF so don't be surprised by this!
I change this capacitor in every CD player that comes into my workspace. I now use 47 uF 25v on the grounds that it will probable last longer and be more effective.
joeyboygolf: Some defective capacitors still measure 33 uF so don't be surprised by this!
Thanks Graham! Probably this is not the way measuring caps but it will give me an idea that there's hope
Leslie,
Great photos indeed, looked frighteningly familiar. And now I know which capacitor to replace.
Thank you.
The other photo...
Leslie: joeyboygolf: Some defective capacitors still measure 33 uF so don't be surprised by this! Thanks Graham! Probably this is not the way measuring caps but it will give me an idea that there's hope
Apparently not the way to measure caps.
I bought an ESR meter,because it was being talked about at the time, I don't have a clue what to do with it really! Perhaps someone can enlighten me, in simple terms!!
Maybe this clip may help?
I have an ESR meter and use it frequently, the best way for me was measuring a new good cap, and then compare with the old cap, there are tables available on the web, I used them to begin with, but now I hardly use them. Only thing to remember is the lower the uF the higher the ESR Ohms, and if the ESR meter shows nothing, the cap is open circuit, The uF measurement is OK but as you measure cold, the values may change if warm and working.
If you have a cap out why not just replace it regardless ?
Martin
Dillen: If you have a cap out why not just replace it regardless ? Martin
With the ESR, you can measure in circuit, just for failure finding, if the cap is small and out, I change it, but with the bigger ones it runs into money.. Just changed 2, 3300 uF 63V in a subwoofer for a friend, USD 11.00 a piece.
Søren Mexico: Dillen: If you have a cap out why not just replace it regardless ? Martin With the ESR, you can measure in circuit, just for failure finding, if the cap is small and out, I change it, but with the bigger ones it runs into money.. Just changed 2, 3300 uF 63V in a subwoofer for a friend, USD 11.00 a piece.
I don't want to make subjective judgements!
I want a meter that says "this cap is knackered" even when measured in circuit.
Does such a meter exist?????
joeyboygolf: I want a meter that says "this cap is knackered" even when measured in circuit. Does such a meter exist?????
No.
As with all electronic measurements, a fancy instrument won't get you very far, unless you a) understand what you're measuring b) understand how the measured parameters affect the circuit around it c) understand how the component in case will age in that particular application & environment (which isn't usually taught in basic level courses & books!).
For this particular cap, one has to spend 15 minutes to one hour (or more on the first time) to get at it, and afterwards 15 minutes to one hour to put the Beocenter back together. It makes absolutely no sense to spend more time measuring the old cap, when it will certainly be ripe for replacement anyway.
Elsewhere, an ESR meter can be useful when searching for problematic caps. But again, knowing that a cap has e.g 1.2 ohms ESR is useless information, unless you know how that particular cap should measure! And even if a cap has degraded, in many cases you may safely choose to not care - if you understand enough of the circuit to make that judgement.
The measured open-circuit capacitance of the cap is usually the last parameter to go bad. At that point it will probably be visually leaking or cracked already.
--mika
I received Martin’s excellent kit and replaced the five capacitors. Unfortunately this took a 90% functioning BeoCenter 9000 CD player to one that does not function at all. This is certainly NOT the fault of the kit, but the end result remains the same.
Correction, the CD player functions, the laser engages, the lens comes in and out, and nothing.
In a Rube Goldberg fashion I “solved” my CD problem by attaching my now useless (because my Beomaster 4500 is non-functional) Beogram 4500 CD player with its 7-prong plug to the BeoCenter 9000.
Then it occurred to me that I could (possibly) take the CD unit in the 4500 and install it in the BeoCenter 9000.
Is this possible?
And a better question, does anyone have any other better ideas?
Send the CD unit to me and I will check what's wrong with it.
Or ask member Blackrix (our Dutch expert) who has lots of experiences fixing these units.
Kind regards, "dealer and lucky me" Leslie
* If you want I can send you a copy of the schematic diagrams BC9000's
Hello Leslie,
A copy of the schematics would be much appreciated.
I also have a couple of questions. It was suggested to me that the laser in my CD may have faded to the point that it is no longer able to read CD’s. If this is accurate would not changing the lazar be the natural next step? And if so is this something I could replace myself? Lastly, if it is, can you provide a lazar for me?
If you don’t think a fading lazar is the likely source of my problem, or that changing the lazar is beyond my probable abilities, please give me your address and I will ship the CD unit to you.
I just want the CD fixed.
Questions I cannot give you an answer to it Jeff, sorry. Again, please send member Blackrix a PM if he has an alternative for the laser. I'm sure when he reads your post he will reply! He really knows a lot and has helped me many many times. The only thing I can offer you is to send the unit to me and I can test it with my other BC9000 units.
Shall I send you a soft copy (not on Beoworld?????). I have to scan it first though!
Hi Leslie,
Thank you so very much!
I have sent blackrix an email….. I just hope I explained my problem properly.
And if Blackrix van't help I surely can help you with a donor (if and I repeat, if the CD unit is the issue).
Therefore I need yours to check. Your glasspanels are still ok?
The CD player functions in ALL respects properly, except that it does not recognize CD's
The doors open and close correctly. The CD engages when CD is pressed, the CD spins, the laser lights, and the lens moves in and out. Then the CD player shuts down and the door opens.
Did that answer your question?
I guess so! How do you know the laser moves when a disc is on it? I did once adjust two potmeters on the servoboard according to specs of the service manual but you need a multimeter to do that.
But you need some knowledge in order to do that, and I don't have that, but I still managed to fix it
Let's wait for Blackrix....
Check Part 4 of the service manual Beocenter 9500 page 5-14. Not sure if it's the same board though but there is where I did start doing the adjustment for the laser current! Blackrix told me about that and I succeed!
I was attempting to condense my stories. The CD spins and then stops, then the door opens as described.
In order to see the laser and lens function the CD unit has to be opened and no CD in place.
I do have a Fluke multimeter, but with not a lot of experience using it.
That's weird, I did lots of Beocenters and in most of the cases, in fact all cases, I just had to replace the famous C2103 cap for a few cents!
According to the BeoCenter 9500 service manual the laser angle is adjustable and can get out of adjustment.
I am now thinking that maybe it is an improper angle on the laser.
As long as you know what you`re doing ....but be carefull
As long as I know what I am doing? Well that pretty much let’s me out. I will read the manual carefully, but if I don’t think I fully comprehend the instructions, I will err on the side of caution and not try it.
Leslie: As long as you know what you`re doing ....but be carefull
Two posts back you said this situation was weird, we it just got a LOT WEIDER!
All this talk about weak lasers and lasers out of adjustment got me thinking. Martin had several questions for me and as this BeoCenter resides in a living room not on a workbench so each question required opening up the BeoCenter and then putting it back together.
With all the commotion I thought just maybe the lens might have got dirty so I cleaned it thoroughly. The initial cleaning had no effect so I cleaned the lens again and this time, as one would a British car I gave it a moderate tap.
I pressed CD and the player began spinning, making all sorts of soft squeaks, groans, and assorted other noises…. but it didn’t stop. Then the lights came on for search arrows, the noises stopped, and the counter lit up and began counting….. and the music started.
So it works, but only after a fashion…. it isn’t fixed. The CD player does not recognize all the tracks as it should at the beginning of play and it missed playing track 1. Yet it played every track thereafter.
I look forward to your reaction and suggestions for how to really fix this unit.
Piaf: Leslie: As long as you know what you`re doing ....but be carefull Hello Leslie, Two posts back you said this situation was weird, we it just got a LOT WEIDER! All this talk about weak lasers and lasers out of adjustment got me thinking. Martin had several questions for me and as this BeoCenter resides in a living room not on a workbench so each question required opening up the BeoCenter and then putting it back together. With all the commotion I thought just maybe the lens might have got dirty so I cleaned it thoroughly. The initial cleaning had no effect so I cleaned the lens again and this time, as one would a British car I gave it a moderate tap. I pressed CD and the player began spinning, making all sorts of soft squeaks, groans, and assorted other noises…. but it didn’t stop. Then the lights came on for search arrows, the noises stopped, and the counter lit up and began counting….. and the music started. So it works, but only after a fashion…. it isn’t fixed. The CD player does not recognize all the tracks as it should at the beginning of play and it missed playing track 1. Yet it played every track thereafter. I look forward to your reaction and suggestions for how to really fix this unit. Jeff
Do you mean mechanical or speaker noises, some time ago I had a little problems with my CD50, not reading first 15-30 sec. of the first track, it turned out to be the motor, clean and lub fixed that, I think Jacques had a same problem but he had to change a cap or 2, and adjust the focus V.