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Currently I am working on a BeoGram 1500 (which is more or less a BeoGram 1000 with a built in amplifier and 2 speakers).
I have solved a lot of issues already, but have one left: starting the motor to spin.
QuestionDoes anyone have experience with this issue?
The speed selector has no electric contact function.The motor will run at all times, when the tonearm is out of its rest.
Have you checked the actual motor spindle, or are you merely looking at the platter, which you say the motor runs or not?My guess is, that the motor is actually running, but the speed selector mech, has seized in dry lubricants, only allowing the idler wheel to swing in and contact the motor pulley at certain speed selections (45/78).A bad belt (and indeed some of the sewer pipe gaskets sold in large numbers at Ebay as turntable belts) can also cause this, since the belt is the only thing pulling the idler towards the motor pulley.The original belt has very unique properties.
Martin
Thanks for responding Martin.
Yes to be specific, I am looking directly at the motor spindle. As this one should start spinning as soon as the tone-arm is removed from the rest.
First I had an issue with the contact switch underneath the armrest. One of the two contact strips was bend. I repaired this, so both strips make prefect contact now.
Actually, after having repaired this contact switch, the motor did run. Sometimes I had to turn the speed selecter back and front a bit. But it did run.
Now (just two weeks later) the motor spindle doesn’t run. So I am looking how to solve this.
Must be a lose wire or a bad switch connection.
You were right Martin.
I started measuring from the incoming power leads, the transformer, to the motor on/off switch (connected to the arm rest), to the motor.
By doing that I found out that one of the contact points in the on/off switch, still wasn't making good enough contact. Although I thought I had already solved this. I now used my Dremel to polish all contact points clean. But that wasn't good enough. Then I tried to bend the bad contact pint a little up. But that also din't work good enough.
After some trials I found out that I could get better and reliable contacts, when adding some help in the lever-effect of this switch. So I glued a small piece of a wooden match in the back part between the upper and lower plate of the switch (see picture). This creates the right pressure at the front for the contacts to come together, as soon as the the tone arm is taken out of the arm rest. There is also a positive side effect of this adjustment. Due to the wear, the upper and lower plate of the contact switch can get misaligned easily. So the contacts don't touch each other well, or worse they don't touch at all. The adjustment I made fixes both plates in the right alignment, so always perfect contact.
Problem solved.