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This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi everybody,
now that the Beomaster is fixed, I started work on my also newly arrived BG 5005. After opening it I found that the rails the tonearm uses for the horizontal movement came loose, so I fixed that. Now, the problem that I can't fix is that the tonearm is very loose, it just wobbles around actually and is a lot lower than the indicator arm (which is perfectly tight). I'm not able to bring it any higher, as the screw that should be tightened for that purpose always manages to get away from my screwdriver (sounds weird, I know...) And I also have the feeling a simple tightening of said screw isn't gonna solve that problem.
Another problem is that once I push play, everything starts as it should (apart from the stylus that is sometimes so low I have to lift it on the record manually, and I guess I'll need a retipping soon like that...). The stylus then just stays in place and plays the same part of the LP over and over. I can't even move the tonearm using the buttons, and I also can't lift it with the buttons (which might very well be because the loose fit of the tonearm).
But when I start the record by pushing the 'turn' button, it acts just like when pushing play, but now I can at least move the tonearm pushing the directional buttons (bar the 'lift' option, of course). Still, the same section is played infinitely. The 'stop' command works as it should in both 'modes'.
Anyone having an educated guess?
You probably got the lifting arm at the back of the carriage on the wrong side of thewhite nylon bar at the rear, that tilts forward and backward when lifting/loweringwhen you put the rails back in.
Martin
Brengen & Ophalen
Well, that's just the way I had it mounted, still, the tonearm sits very loose on its pivot point.
The white bar that was mentioned has a return spring under the outer end, part # 1638 in the service manual. It's tiny and slips off very easily when the other mechanics aren't in place limiting the travel of the bar.
The arm not advancing is probably an unrelated problem, but check this first.
--mika
Could also be that the tiny point holding the massive inner part of the tonearm assyhas broken off. A replacement carriage is the only fix really, in the given case.
Spring checked, it's in place. I don't think the problem has to do with the lifting bar, or any of the springs. I really think it has to be something in the way the tonearm itself is mounted on the head of the carriage.
Dillen: Could also be that the tiny point holding the massive inner part of the tonearm assyhas broken off.
Could also be that the tiny point holding the massive inner part of the tonearm assyhas broken off.
Do you mean the point marked 'T' in the service manual in chapter 6-3, fitting of the tone-arm?
That's how it looks mounted.
Okay, I'm again replying to myself...
Could it be there's an integral part missing in the tonearm mount? In the service manual, it looks as if the tip protrudes from top to bottom, or at least that there is something mounted on the bottom too. If so, is there anything I can do about it? I apologize for the quality, the Samsung Galaxy is the only cam small enough to get down there, but the lack of a flash is quite obvious in low light...
I had a similar problem in two decks, it was proken pin underneath tonearm assembly. I´ll send pictures later.
Itś later.
Here is how it should be, pin on the middle. Below it has broken off.
It is one piece with cone on top side of arm assembly and removes by pushing from bottom . I did drill 1,5mm hole in it and put piece of round steel axis in it, it did work, better than without anyway. Main thing is to be very carefully and precise on drilling, otherwise it will lead to wrong angle of arm, it isn't anymore self centering like triangle shaped original.
blah-blah and photographs as needed
Thanks for answering and especially for the pictures, it helps a lot to see how it actually should look like. I was able to get a tonearm and carriage (not for cheap I have to say, shipping especially... ) but I'm positive I'll be able to at least sort out the 'limping' of my tonearm. Then, I hope I can do something about the non-movement of the carriage during playback. If not, there's another post coming
Sounds like photoconductor part on left side of arm is malfunctioning
Sorry for the late answer, I didn't have the time to see after this thread last week.
As for the photoconductor part: you might very well be right, but when I had the chance to get another donor (a Beogram 5500) for quite cheap, I decided to extract the central parts from it (I would have liked the complete unit to fit the turntable better to the rest of my Beosystem 5500, but it wasn't in the best of shapes visually) and now the turntable works flawlessly.
At least, that's what I assume not having connected it to the Beomaster (it's midnight, after all), but since turntables still make a tiny little sound of their own during playback, it plays fine, the arm moves and lifts just as it should, so I can happily go to bed now and dream of the hours of vinyl listening that lie ahead
So thanks for all your help, and good night.
Being a knife edge bearing, so to speak, the replacement piece should come to quite a defined point, otherwise there will be too much lateral friction. This could damage your stylus / stylus suspension prematurely. At the very least I would think it would effect the sound to some extend.
I used a bit of tin plate to repair one once. Took ages to get it perfectly set up but my mum still uses the player to this day and it works very well :) The major issue was getting the correct glue to stick to the plastic!
Olly
Step1: Being a knife edge bearing, so to speak, the replacement piece should come to quite a defined point, otherwise there will be too much lateral friction. This could damage your stylus / stylus suspension prematurely. At the very least I would think it would effect the sound to some extend. I used a bit of tin plate to repair one once. Took ages to get it perfectly set up but my mum still uses the player to this day and it works very well :) The major issue was getting the correct glue to stick to the plastic!
You mean that "pin"? Yes, you are right, I was thinking that too, and that's why I did not use some screw there (as in end point of cord in carriage).
Steel axis I put there was, if I can remember, saved from some old cd-rom, it is polished steel, so minimium fraction there, also it is positioned as good as I could in a way that contactpoint to pivot leads to original position.
Would be intresting to see picture from your solution, but you don't have one?
Yes I have Ovara, the first attempt I used a stanly blade which had its edge blunted and round off slightly, just to prevent cutting into the plastic!
This wouldn't stick unfortunately, so I cut some sheet metal, same treatment to the edge but this time more securely attached - I wasn't happy with the appearance but it works (still to this day) well enough...
Obviously things were trimmed and tidied a little bit even so it looked rough, works well though!
I also had to rebuild the lip that stops the arm being able to lift off the bearings. Interestingly, while the bearing had been trashed in transit there were no other signs to show it had been roughly transported which was a bonus!
That looks like a good idea. Maybe I have to try something based on this for that other, not yet fixed, arm.
First thing comes in mind is to find alternative for glueing...
I'm glad to see my thread is helping others too
Some of you really know how to work with tools, I wouldn't even have the tools to do such delicate work (I do have accumulated quite a variety of tools already, but none for such fine work, as I don't have a room to do such work anyway).
But I wondered if anyone knew who made those triangular pins, as I would be surprised - though it might be possible considering the pricing - if they were made exclusively for B&O, as there might be some other use for them too (I admit, I can't think of any, but then I'm a cartographer, not an engineer ). So, if the manufacturer could be found out, there might be a source for those pins, or at least some surplus production or something. I'm just curious because I'm somehow sentimental about those things, I don't like the idea of donor equipment too much, as it means, another device has to be definitely put out of possible working condition. Yeah, I know...
Almost certainly made specifically for these decks! Not exactly an exotic part and quite easy to make... Your best bet might be to look for a scrap deck but why not get some tin metal, a file, some scissors and glue and give the repair a go yourself!?! It is fiddly to get just right, but if you are on a budget this method works very well!