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This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022

 

Beosound 9000 - How to manually move the arm?

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notwist
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notwist Posted: Sat, Feb 19 2022 2:22 PM

Hi all, 

This Beosound is another one from an inheritance. On powering on the only thing that happens is some clicking of the relays. Then all CD lamps light up, afterwards another click and it reboots it's sequence. It does not respond to anything (remote is dead also). Now I want to check several pcb's but there is a problem. 

You see to get at the pcb's you need to move the cd arm to a specific position. Otherwise you can't remove the plastic cover. But my machine won't let me input any codes (SHIFT + numbers) to release the arm. It won't let me do anything at all for that matter. 

As far as I can see the service manual does not say how to move the arm manually. There has to be some sort of mechanism seeing that servicing the machine would be rather impossible otherwise. 

Does anyone know the procedure to manually move the arm to the central position? 

Many thanks, 

Bert

Bill Briscoe
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Hi,

you can manually turn the large plastic gear on the very bottom of the sledge (assuming the sledge is in position #1 and the unit is in front of you, it will be on the right side). It's a little tricky, but with a mirror and a small but somewhat long screwdriver you can do it. Carefully turn the gear clockwise unit it stops, the sledge should now be released.  If you can get a small mirror down there, or take a photo from your phone you should be able to figure it out.

Good luck,

Bill

notwist
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notwist replied on Sun, Feb 20 2022 6:09 AM

Hi Bill, 

Many thanks for your reply!

I've tried your suggestion but I don't see any option to get at any gear within the housing of the arm. I've seen the arm disassembled and the gear I think you are talking about is way deep in the housing. It would not be accessible without disassembling the arm. I've looked at this from every possible angle but I just don't see how that would work :-(. 

Bert

Bill Briscoe
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Hi Bert,

I'm assuming that you have removed the glass door, is that correct?  That's the first step.

With the glass removed you will need to access the large white plastic gear that is indeed at the very bottom of the sledge just above the bottom of the tray.  Clearance is very tight. You should use a mirror or a phone to take a look at what's there.  Moving the gear is actually rather easy if you have the right tool.

I have done this myself more than once, it's not very difficult once you remove the glass and take a look under the sledge mechanism.

Bill

Weebyx
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Weebyx replied on Sun, Feb 20 2022 5:28 PM

If you don’t have any speakers connected, the remote won’t work. You can use a powerlink connector with pins 2 and 4 shorted to simulate the speaker. This will allow for remote commands to be received.

 

/Weebyx

 

Weebyx
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Weebyx replied on Sun, Feb 20 2022 5:28 PM

If you don’t have any speakers connected, the remote won’t work. You can use a powerlink connector with pins 2 and 4 shorted to simulate the speaker. This will allow for remote commands to be received.

 

/Weebyx

 

Weebyx
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Weebyx replied on Sun, Feb 20 2022 5:28 PM

If you don’t have any speakers connected, the remote won’t work. You can use a powerlink connector with pins 2 and 4 shorted to simulate the speaker. This will allow for remote commands to be received.

 

/Weebyx

 

Beobuddy
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Beobuddy replied on Sun, Feb 20 2022 5:44 PM

Or just start with an A-opt 1 instruction. If that doesn’t work, then you won’t get it into servicemode either. 
If the BS9000 responds to the option instruction, but not to servicemode sequence, but then the BS9000  can’t finish it’s startup routine. 
But if you’re having troubles with above procedure, then I’m wondering with what you expect to find on the inside.  

notwist
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notwist replied on Sun, Feb 20 2022 6:06 PM

I was able to get it to move manually using the instructions above from Bill. It was finicky indeed. 

What I can see inside is that the power supply has several capacitors that are either dead or out of spec.
The tiny SMD electrolytic capacitors are all dead. 
Also the solder work is really bad, dry solder all over the place.
It is a common problem. 

Whether or not that fixes the issue remains to be seen.
There are no obviously damaged or dead components after testing. 

From my perspective the machine wants to start but is stuck in a loop. Sometimes it gets further in that loop. 
But never is it able to complete the loop nor maintain that phase. It will shut off after two minute. Then it will restart the loop. 

I will also remove, clean and reseat the different IC's that are in a cradle. 

Lastly, I do not know what "A-OPT-1" is or how to execute this. 
I am not knee deep in B&O from this era sadly. 
I can fix them, but secret codes and stuff I do not know. Especially if they are not in the service manual. 

Bert

notwist
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notwist replied on Sun, Feb 20 2022 6:09 PM

I got it Bill, thanks. I was looking at it the wrong way. 
Now I have bene able to lift the two primary pcb's and put them under the microscope. 
Mostly it is dry soldering and bad capacitors, rest seems to be ok. 

Could still be a microprocessor failure though. That is much more difficult to trace. 

Thanks! 

Bert

notwist
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notwist replied on Sun, Feb 20 2022 6:11 PM

That is one really stupid design in my opinion. 
And also not described in the service manual.

The wonders of B&O design :-(  

Bert

Bill Briscoe
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Hi Bert,

good to hear you've made some progress. With respect to option programming, A.OPT=1 means audio option=1, which enables remote control, option=0 disable remote control operation. BS9000 will default to option=0 when there are no PowerLink speakers connected.

The methods for setting the options depend on the remote you have, generally Beo4 or Beolink 1000. You can find all the very useful instructions for setting the options for the various remotes here on Beoworld.

Good luck, I hope you get it going again.

Bill

Beobuddy
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Beobuddy replied on Wed, Feb 23 2022 8:35 AM

notwist:

That is one really stupid design in my opinion. 
And also not described in the service manual.

The wonders of B&O design :-(  

Bert

That's a rather strong allegation from someone who has never heard of "A-option 1", never entered BS9000's servicemenu with all its potential and thinks that the solution will be found in leaking capacitors and dry solderjoints.

This, again, is an example of an assumption made by ones who think that often the culprit might be found in bad capacitors and solder joints.
Sometimes even I can get bored with these thoughts and  yet again have to convince another customer who has read these opnions/thoughts/possible culprits on the internet and will be surprised to hear that the cause of the malfunction of his or her's treasured device isn't just that.

Just keep looking through your microscope.

Sorry, just sometimes a bit fed up with the generally ones who think they can easily "fix" things and the ones that pronouce their products "Refurbished" after changing some caps and some polishing.

Ah, luckily, looking throught the window and the sun starts to shine again.

 

notwist
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notwist replied on Wed, Feb 23 2022 8:55 AM

Oh please. What is it with the personal attacks all of the sudden, did I personally attack you? 

It is a silly design: let us disable the remote control if there are no (powerlink) speakers attached. Only to use a code that is NOT in the service manual to activate it again. If you take this personally then please by all means. 

And yes, having close to 12 dead or out of spec (I mean REALLY out of spec) capacitors on a damn power supply WILL in fact create oodles of havoc on said power supply. A dead cap (two dead shorted ones here) WILL in fact cause problems to no end. Having broken solder joints on the through hole components WILL in fact create all kinds of issues. If you do not see this then what can I say, 

And I EXPRESSLY stated that it remained to be seen whether or not that would actually solve the issue. 
Power supplies being notoriously fickle and difficult to work on. 
I NEVER said that it would fix the issue as if it were some sort of magic repair. 

Listen man, I did not attack you.
I did not hassle you. 
I did not provoke you nor did I make statements about you or your technical prowess. 
I am not here to get into silly fights. 

Regards, 

Bert

Beobuddy
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Beobuddy replied on Wed, Feb 23 2022 9:36 AM

And again this proves that you are not familiar with the concept and/or design.

If you connect speakers to it, it will listen to remote commands. If there are no speakers attached ,then the BS9000 thinks that it will get its instructions by  ML (Masterlink, wide connector). It is a logical ratherclever thing and makes sense. What's silly about that?

From all the BS9000's/PSU's I've had  over the past 10 yrs (there have been several hundreds by now), none of them had a shortened capacitor.

Unless you're measuring them when they are still on the board. Then I suggest looking for a shortened schottky diode and/or mosfet.
Broken solder joints, no, never. Only broken via's from traces from one of the multilayers. Sometimes caused by using to much force to bend the end of a capacitor or too much heat when getting the ones from the board.
If you look more closely you can find almost broken solder joints. For that you have to take out the software and eeprom and look at its socket. But by removing them you just  might trigger that.
The other place you might find is the place where 2 diodes comes togehter to supply the 100hz.

notwist
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notwist replied on Wed, Feb 23 2022 5:16 PM


Perhaps you are indeed some B&O Guru, I don't know. Many people say  many things online. 
But being condescending, supremacist and attacking people personally, that doesn't make you a someone I would listen to. 

You don't know me nor my background. 
I did not once say I am an expert on this machine. 
I came here for insights not to be bullied. 

I inherited several B&O machines (all of which are working now), I do not intend to sell it. 
I checked all components out of circuit where applicable using the right tools. 
All basic semiconductors were tested in circuit (of course). They are fine. 

In this case it was simply an improperly seated cable that caused the new situation with the blinking LED. 
Now it is back to it's original cycling. 

As I said before, it was never a given that this small repair would solve the problem.

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