ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Rich: ɓʋɾɑɳɫɘɮ: H6! I may drop my pipe and kick off my slippers for it! I'll wait until Jaff has six pairs, then express interest in them, and he'll offer a pair of his to me at the going used price rate.
ɓʋɾɑɳɫɘɮ: H6! I may drop my pipe and kick off my slippers for it!
H6!
I may drop my pipe and kick off my slippers for it!
I'll wait until Jaff has six pairs, then express interest in them, and he'll offer a pair of his to me at the going used price rate.
Umm yeah. That was before I saw the price!
BeoPlay? What the h3ll is going on in Struer?
I'll wait for the A3-style 1/2 price sale, maybe.
Beolab 50, Beolab 8000 x 2, Beolab 4000 x 2, BeoSound Core, BeoSound 9000, BeoSound Century, BeoLit 15, BeoPlay A1, BeoPlay P2, BeoPlay H9 3rd Gen, BeoPlay H6, EarSet 3i, BeoVision Eclipse Gen 2 55", BeoPlay V1-40, BeoCom 6000 and so much else :)
Gatex:Those look liek rebadged Sennheiser Headies, there're no real WOW BnO products anymore. We see only Beoplay products, I think the hidden Agenda is that Beoplay will replace in the future the Bno product range copletely. really I dont care about this company anymore
DoubleU: One solid anodized aluminium block vs white plastic! What’s to compare?
One solid anodized aluminium block vs white plastic! What’s to compare?
Exactly.
If these are properly machined on a CNC anything, even post machined, these are a bargain.
Unfortunately the labor of metal machining and associated work is unknown to most consumers and let me tell you, it isn't cheap.
You guys better thank B&O for saving cost by not choosing magnesium injection molding or 3D titanium printing.
Beo4 'til I die!
Beosound Stage, Beovision 8-40, Beolit 20, Beosound Explore.
Evan: DoubleU: One solid anodized aluminium block vs white plastic! What’s to compare? Exactly. If these are properly machined on a CNC anything, even post machined, these are a bargain. Unfortunately the labor of metal machining and associated work is unknown to most consumers and let me tell you, it isn't cheap. You guys better thank B&O for saving cost by not choosing magnesium injection molding or 3D titanium printing.
+1
Pocket-lint write about H6:
All in all, a decent addition to B&O's BeoPlay range. We have to say though, the Bowers and Wilkins P5s and P3s look and sound just as good and aren't priced anywhere near as high. If money is no object and it's the name you have to have, the B&O is a great choice, otherwise save the cash and pick up some P5s.
I'm looking forward to a real listening review of both of these, I really hope they measure up to "proper" headphone rather than Beats etc. At the same time I can't help feeling that (if they do meet the mark) I would rather they'd have been the B&O brand rather than BeoPlay - I'm not even sure why, it's more of a feeling than a conscious opinion!!
I don't really do much "full headphone" listening these days and so as interested as I am in reading a good, balanced, comparative review of the H6's I think I'd personally be more interested in the H3's, I'd rather be discovered dead in the street than be seen wandering around wearing "full size" headphones!!
I've pretty much given up listening to my A8's on the go because of the very poor ambient noise isolation and generally use some very inexpensive (but very good value for money) Sennhesier CX300 II's when travelling - they have some passive attenuation and good enough sound quality to listen to over the top of engine drone!
I'd like to think the H3's have good sound quality (please no boomy bass for kids)! with a reasonable amount of passive isolation - here's hoping!!
As a passing note, my experience of the Bose active cancelling phones are that they are definitely the best of all the competition at noise cancelling however I wouldn't/couldn't listen to them in a non-noisy environment as they impose an almost an "MP3" quality to music in normal, quiet environments. I think I would rather spend money on a decent in-ear passive set that give an acceptable "plane" performance and did well under normal conditions rather than the other way around. I'd like to think it could be the H3's although I confess to be slightly concerned about their "open-back" design - as I said earlier, here's hoping!
Ban boring signatures!
I know they are part of the Beoplay range, but they don't have Beoplay written on them. I feel this division is more about where one can buy the product rather than any quality issue. I imagine the H3 is quite a bit better than A8s - listening will tell!
Peter
As far as I know, none of the Beoplay products have Beoplay written on them. The logo you see on the side, is the Beoplay logo.
The B&O products have a "Bang & Olufsen" logo, while the Beoplay products have the "B&O" logo.
Beovision Eclipse gen2 (GX) w/ floorstand, Beolab 14.2, 4 speaker Shape and ATV4/Chromecast.
Beoplay A9mk4 GVA, Beosound 1 GVA, H2, H3, H8, E6, Beoplay EQ
I was wrong, apparently the H6 do have some sort of passive noise attenuation which works brilliantly.
Birthday present back off hold
I am looking forward to seeing the H6, they look good, just hoping they sound as good and are worth the money. Been waiting for a decent set of headphones for a while now
I heard the H6 headphones yesterday. Very comfortable to wear and they sound stunning. Please defer any decisions until you have visited your dealer for a demonstration when they launch in May.
Opman
Opman: ...Please defer any decisions until you have visited your dealer for a demonstration when they launch in May. Opman
...Please defer any decisions until you have visited your dealer for a demonstration when they launch in May.
That's no fun.
Hi Opman,
I have been looking for a good on-ear HP for while now.
One of my main criterias is that they should leak as little sound to the outside as possible, since I will be using them at home with my wife in the same room.
Best HP for this purpose so far is my AKG K550, which I like very much because it sounds very 'neutral'.
I have some Grado's too, that I like even better - but my wife complains, when I am using them and she is sitting nearby 💆
How are the H6 concerning this?
Gretings Millemissen
There is a tv - and there is a BV
Speaking of headphones, here's a concept I wish someone would make. Often, I know I would like to have both channels combined into one ear bud or ear piece, a stereo to one ear only, not two ear pieces, set. When at work or when I want to be listening to both music and also have to listen for the phone, conversation, or work stuff this would be ideal. I think I'm not the only one given all the people I see listening at work with only one earpiece in. Yes, you can setup your iPod to output monaural, but it'd be easier to have a relatively inexpensive single earpiece to use, then swap back to a stereo pair, then have to page down thru the multiple menus to go back and forth from mono to stereo.
Jeff
I'm afraid I'm recovering from the BeoVirus.
Just use a stereo to mono jack adapter
Apparently not a good idea! See next post!
Peter: Just use a stereo to mono jack adapter
Not so sure!
Either this will send either just the left or right signal to both ears and therefore half of the mix is missing or, worse still, it will short together the stereo output to a single connection. While there may be sufficient output impedance in the headphone amp to prevent this causing significant damage and you might get away with it I don't think it's a brilliant idea to try to combine two signals without mixing resistors. I certainly wouldn't attempt it on anything expensive.
Read below on Head-fi.org -
The pads are replaceable - but only with their own pads. They can be twisted off and you won't be able to fit other pads on them. But the ones they come with are VERY soft and nice leather. They are full size over-the-ear - not on-ear.
The sound is more clear and the seperation is better than the DT-1350 to my ears. Bigger soundstage and better overall clarity. My DT-1350 sounds a bit veiled in direct comparison and I have always liked them. They have angled drivers so I think that helps to broaden the perspective a little. I have to admit I am surprised by how good they sound because the house is very slim and it is closed design so I expected them to be either very bassy or congested but they are overall very neutral and opensounding.
Disclaimer; I work for B&O - not in Sales or R&D but in the quality department. I have been a headphone geek much longer than I have been working at B&O. I have to admit I was at first very sceptical about these from the beginning and I never thought the design was right because of the limited space but I am surprised by the result anyway.
Puncher:Not so sure! Either this will send either just the left or right signal to both ears and therefore half of the mix is missing or, worse still, it will short together the stereo output to a single connection. While there may be sufficient output impedance in the headphone amp to prevent this causing significant damage and you might get away with it I don't think it's a brilliant idea to try to combine two signals without mixing resistors. I certainly wouldn't attempt it on anything expensive. Ban boring signatures!
Yeah, forcing them to mix using an adapter with no resistive or active assistance in merging the signals seems risky to me, especially as I have no clue how the Apple iPod or iPhone outputs are designed. With my luck it would short out and trash the headphone outs on my phone or something. A DVC driver would be perfect, but as pointed out no one sells such. I may have to make a little active box but that is more bulky and complex than I'd like. So, I usually do without phones or music, which isn't as big an issue as it would be for some as I've never been that big a headphone fan. Still seems like there should be some market for this if someone would do it.
Actually now that I think about it, I think this could be achieved with some simple electronics..
Some small diodes on the channel inputs should solve the current direction and a basic voltage follower after that such as the BurrBrown OPA134 (single channel) and set gain to 1 to avoid impedance mis-matching. This should get what you are wanting to achieve and for very little $. Actually, you might need to raise the gain slightly in the opamp to overcome the loss from the diodes.
At any rate, you should ditch the phone calls and get a proper headphone amp and cans for work! I take my headphone amp and KRK cans to work when I know I will be spending a lot of time on the computer.
I would avoid diodes - if you intend to use an OpAmp then a simple inverting Adder/mixer circuit will add the signals but remember that you are driving headphones, an OpAmp will not drive a 32Ohm load!
Puncher: I would avoid diodes - if you intend to use an OpAmp then a simple inverting Adder/mixer circuit will add the signals but remember that you are driving headphones, an OpAmp will not drive a 32Ohm load!
Curious.. I have been driving some pretty high-impedance headphones with the OPA134 and with great results.
EDIT:
Just looked at some of the impedances of cans used:
KRK KNS6400 @ 36 ohmsaudio-technica AD900 @ 35 ohmsAKG Q701 @ 62 ohms
Remember, this is measured at 1kHz, which means impedance can rise much higher with a higher frequency.. Just checked a plot of the Q701 and at 20 c/s the impedance is passing 100 ohms.
evman140:I take my headphone amp and KRK cans to work when I know I will be spending a lot of time on the computer.
Evan: Puncher: I would avoid diodes - if you intend to use an OpAmp then a simple inverting Adder/mixer circuit will add the signals but remember that you are driving headphones, an OpAmp will not drive a 32Ohm load! Curious.. I have been driving some pretty high-impedance headphones with the OPA134 and with great results. EDIT: Just looked at some of the impedances of cans used: KRK KNS6400 @ 36 ohmsaudio-technica AD900 @ 35 ohmsAKG Q701 @ 62 ohms Remember, this is measured at 1kHz, which means impedance can rise much higher with a higher frequency.. Just checked a plot of the Q701 and at 20 c/s the impedance is passing 100 ohms.
Not saying it won't make a noise but it won't be ideal. Much better to follow it with something like a BUF634 who's output is properly specified to operate at the impedances you mention.
Beofan53: evman140: I take my headphone amp and KRK cans to work when I know I will be spending a lot of time on the computer. Hi Evan, During the late hours I use my Form 2 or Stax headphones for listening to my music. When I am on my way with with my work I use my Macbook. The sound could be better. So I am curious what kind of headphoneamp you use while working on the computer. By the way, the new brown H6 will be my next one!
evman140: I take my headphone amp and KRK cans to work when I know I will be spending a lot of time on the computer.
I take my headphone amp and KRK cans to work when I know I will be spending a lot of time on the computer.
Hi Evan,
During the late hours I use my Form 2 or Stax headphones for listening to my music. When I am on my way with with my work I use my Macbook. The sound could be better.
So I am curious what kind of headphoneamp you use while working on the computer.
By the way, the new brown H6 will be my next one!
Hi Beofan -
My headphone amp is one of my own creation. Its a true dual-monoblock that I designed and built between 2011 and 2012. It started as a project to supply music while I repaired my dead receivers of the time. It evolved into an engineering project without any limits and something I thought had never been done before.
If you are interested in what it sounds like, read some reviews of the Chu Moy DIY amp, my amp is based on this circuit architecture.
Here is a link to some more info and pics about my amp - http://www.bunneraudio.com/Products/headphoneamp
If you are interested in building one, I'd be more than happy to help. I can of course also recommend available consumer amps.
At some point we will need to start a new thread about DIY headphone stuff to avoid from hi-jacking this one.
No problem Bert, I am happy to help. Feel free to email/pm me any questions you might have.
I can also provide the component list and board files to make it easier.
Earlier this spring I made a revised version of the board. Someone interested in my design wanted a version that is more compact and can support an additional 9v cell (now for a total of 4!). I haven't made it public due to the fact that it is untested. The main difference is that the power section and amp section are now combined onto a single pcb. If you are interested in this particular version please let me know.
Hi Millemissen
Sound leakage out of H6 is virtually nil. I stood next to people who were listening to them and couldn't hear anything. By contrast a pair of Beats headphones were also being used for comparison purposes and the level of sound coming out of them was very distracting.
Thanks for the info.
yesterday I had the opportunity to try the H6 for a couple of minutes.
i used my own iPod Touch with (FLAC)music, that I know well.
The iPod had to be at full volume to have a resonable level in the H6 - nice and detailed sound but not powerfull enough.
That is not nice - like having to push your car 100% just to follow the traffic-flow.
Honestly I was not impressed, knowing how my Grado 80i's and my AKG's work.
But I am willing to give it one more try - maybe at home with my 'stereo' they are better?
Greetings Millemissen
A lot of EU iPods have a volume limiter on them which can be removed. It is done so you don't damage your hearing but with less sensitive headphones, it can be a pain. Have you removed this on yours?
I used an earlier version of this for a few years - very good sound. Not sure about the specs etc, but it worked well with various headphones, inc Grado, Form 2 and Beyer .
http://www.rega.co.uk/html/Ear%202012.htm
I will take a closer look at the H6 once they are available at the B&O dealer. However I am not interested in buying headphones that are designed specifically for portable devices since I am going to use it on my V1 or Beosystem 7000.
@Peter: no, I did not remove the limiter.
Mostly I use the small headphoneamp E1 from Fiio.
Firstly it pulls the sound ut of the line-ot of theiDevice (through the dockconnector).
Secondly it gives me more power to the headphones I use.
I recommend the Fiio E1. Although it gives you more cable to deal with, it improves the sound in an easy way, and it draws only minimal power direct from the iDevice.
But...of course I was campairing what I heard with the H6 and headphone-out of my iPod Touch to what I know with the headphone-out connection to my own HP's.
I would like to try out the H6 at home, since I - as Hubbe - would prefer the H6 for home-listening.
By the way, the H6 is not specially created for a portable device. You can use any minijack to minijack cable you like, since it is detachable.
Kef joins the party!
Tks Puncher ! Really nice products which won Reddot Design Awards 2013 !