ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Good evening,
I want to dismantle one of my LC1 dimmers in order to replace capacitors. I saw that Leslie has repaired one recently. What is the "trick" to open the housing without damaging it?
Thanks in advance,
Best regards,
Jean
Just 4 screws at the bottom Jean. The rest is quite obvious I guess. Protect your bling bling toppanel with tape (scratches). Good luck!
Brengen & Ophalen
Leslie: Just 4 screws at the bottom Jean. The rest is quite obvious I guess. Protect your bling bling toppanel with tape (scratches). Good luck!
If I remember correct, then the original screws actually was "one way" screws.. They could only be turned clock-wise.. When trying to un-screw them, the screwdriver could not get a grip.
I had some difficulty with one I had a looong time ago, but I managed to get the screws out by using a very sharp screw-driver, it took some time as I remember :)
Replaced the one-way screws with normal one's when assembling again :)
/Weebyx
Can't remember I've seen one-way screws. For what reason?
Leslie: Can't remember I've seen one-way screws. For what reason?
"Don't tamper with it" reason I guess :)
I am 98.99% sure mine had these screws, But I can be 1,01 % wrong off course... :)
I have 3 or 4 LC1's here so I can check :-)
Thank you very much for your replies and sorry for the late reply. In fact, I had already removed the screws and tested one capacitor with an ESR meter. It is bad without any doubt.
The problem is to remove the small board. It is retained by two metallic plates. Can it be just pulled out by prying it or a more complicated procedure is required to remove it ? I have included two pictures. The first is my own LC1 showing the two capacitors I want to replace and the second is Leslie's repaired one.
I think I just cut the leads of the cap and soldered the new one on top. So I did not removed the board.
Leslie: I have 3 or 4 LC1's here so I can check :-)
Just 2 (not 4) plain "2-way" screws to remove the bottomplate.
-some of them has these screws. (Only one in this one):
Leslie: I think I just cut the leads of the cap and soldered the new one on top. So I did not removed the board.
Thanks!
I will then try that first and leave the red capacitor to see if the problem is solved (light turns off after a few seconds, then flashes).
I searched the archived forum and found only that less than satisfying solution to remove the board:
http://archivedarchivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/29305/231828.aspx#231828
Thanks,
Steffen: -some of them has these screws. (Only one in this one):
Type 2111 for DK not allowed to open it
Type 2110 for NL allowed to open it
Just a wild guess :-)
Leslie: Steffen: -some of them has these screws. (Only one in this one): Type 2111 for DK not allowed to open it Type 2110 for NL allowed to open it Just a wild guess :-)
I knew it !! :)
My memory is still working, it has been 24 years or so, since I had one of these :)
I got a Little curious about those screws - so I just 'Googled' them...They're called "Tri-wing". Those can also be found in Nintendo etc. They probably don't want 'anybody' to open their devices. As far as I can see, they are not 'one-way' -but they require special bits or screwdrivers.Hard to find in 'physical' stores, but you can buy them in many web-stores.
-and there are even guides on Youtube for those who don't want to buy special tools to get these screws out..." />
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9emKL0YgIw
Steffen: I got a Little curious about those screws - so I just 'Googled' them...They're called "Tri-wing". Those can also be found in Nintendo etc. They probably don't want 'anybody' to open their devices. As far as I can see, they are not 'one-way' -but they require special bits or screwdrivers.
I got a Little curious about those screws - so I just 'Googled' them...They're called "Tri-wing". Those can also be found in Nintendo etc. They probably don't want 'anybody' to open their devices. As far as I can see, they are not 'one-way' -but they require special bits or screwdrivers.
I guess you are right about them not being "one-way", I remember that I used a flathead screwdriver to get it undone with, took some time, but did it :)
By the way, does a schematic diagram of the LC1 was ever published by B&O? I think there is no proper service manual available.
Hi everybody,
Just to say that I repaired my LC1 successfully. Replacing only the axial capacitor that measured bad was sufficient to bring it back in operation.
I did exactly what Leslie did: soldering the new capacitor on the pins of the removed bad one. I did some research about opening the housing and it is not possible without forcing the top and the bottom parts with a screwdriver.