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This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi and a Happy New Year to all :)
My latest project is getting my Beocord 7000 back to life.
Dillen (Martin) is the supplier of a new belt set, fast and quick delivery, so if you need belts for your Beocord, just ask Dillen in a PM, he will hook you up :)
Even though Dillen supplies a very good description on how to change the belts, I have decided to take some pictures and share them with you..
This tutorial is for the latest version of the BC7000 tape deck with 3 belts, there are also a version with only 1 belt. I guess the BC 6500 might be similar, but i really don't know.
Step 1:
Loosen the 2 screws on the back on the Beocord, but don't remove them, just loosen and then press them upwards and tighten at the top.
Step 2:
I forgot to take pictures of the button panel removal, but it is fastened to the left and right, and just above the tape deck.
Rremove the lid by pressing it slightly back, aprox 1 cm, end lift it up, then remove the red holders for the circuit board, be very careful, the plastic is old and not very flexible any more, so don't use to much force.
Step 3:
Remove the 2 screws to the left and right of the front panel, and tilt it forward, just enough to release the holders for the circuit board.
Step 4:
Remove the connector for the tape deck, and lift up the circuit board, I decided to just loosen both of the metal holders and remove the circuit board completely, but it is not necessary. Then remove the 3 screws that holds the tape deck, and remove the connector to the bottom print. Then take the deck out.
Step 5:
I forgot to take pictures on how to remove the black plastic from the tapedeck, but it is just 4 screws holding it.
The 2 small belts can then be removed (my pictures shows the new fitted).
Step 6:
To get to the big flat belt, the metal housing holding the brass wheel, needs to be removed, on each side of the deck, there are screws holding this bracket, one side has 2 screws that also holds the speed-sensor, remove these 3 screws, and with the use of a small flathead screwdriver, it is possible to "click" the bracket loose and remove it. Notice that the belt is running along the white wheel attached to the brass wheel (my picture is the new belt).
Step 7:
Even though it should be possible to fit the new belt without removing the print, I decided to remove it for better access.. It is easy.. Just unsolder the 2 connectors to the left and right on the print, and press the plastic holder to the left, and lift the board up. This is the old belt.
Step 8:
Fit the new belt and make sure it runs fine along the black wheel.. Remember that when you re-attach the metal bracket, you need to get the belt around the white wheel also, It can be tricky, but I used a "thick" metal stick to stretch the belt around the white wheel just before the bracket was clicked into place.. Just don't use pliers or pointy/sharp thingies, as you might damage your new belt.
Step 9:
Put it all back together and find a tape and try it out... It works :)
Hope this will help others :)
/Weebyx
Thanks for that, tremendous work that is!
You are now part of the gang, big time
Jacques
Great job Jacob, that's the way, less talk and lots of pictures...
By the way, I miss a picture between step 8 and 9, a 3rd hand was needed right? :-)
Brengen & Ophalen
Leslie: Great job Jacob, that's the way, less talk and lots of pictures... By the way, I miss a picture between step 8 and 9, a 3rd hand was needed right? :-)
I did it on my own, with 2 hands only :)
I suspect you are missing the way to get the belt around the white wheel ? It can be done, and I have just edited the text for step 6 with how to do this, the last picture in step 6 shows the amount of "open" the metal bracket can be, to be able to "pull" the belt around the white wheel.
Still a great thread. Did this excercise many time but I don't think you can't replace this belt without removing the pcb first. Same excercise for the glassdoor systems like Ouverture etc.
Leslie: Still a great thread. Did this excercise many time but I don't think you can't replace this belt without removing the pcb first. Same excercise for the glassdoor systems like Ouverture etc.
It should be possible to get the flat belt in between the PCB and the black wheel, but in the service manual it is also mentioned to remove the PCB, it is much much easier, and you are sure it runs and fits perfectly, and is not damaged by the soldering's at the bottom of the PCB..
Thanks Weebyx, very nice post that should be useful to many people. 6500 is very similar - I believe only the latest 7000 'cords have the (simplified?) one belt version of the mechanism.
--mika
tournedos: Thanks Weebyx, very nice post that should be useful to many people. 6500 is very similar - I believe only the latest 7000 'cords have the (simplified?) one belt version of the mechanism.
According to the Service Manual I have(and also information from Dillen), the "Tape Deck Version 2" is the one with 3 belts instead of 1.. ?
@Weebyx
Thank you for this very helpful and informative post! Just followed it to replace the belts in my Beocord.
Thank you VERY MUCH.
Without this tutorial I would have NEVER done it.
So easy.
Now my Beocord 7000 is back to life.
Regards
Hej. Har fulgt din fine tutorial, men sidder med et bælte der er for stort. Bestilte hjem til en 3300, selvom det er en 3500. Ved du om der er forskel på de to typer bælter? Mvh
Beocord 3300 og 3500 er vidt forskellige. Og det er remmene også.
Hvorfor i alverden bestilte du ikke til den rigtige model???
Nå, men jeg har korrekte remme til dem begge. Send mig en email.
Martin
Godt spørgsmål :-)
Men når jeg søgte hos Thakken.de havde vist ikke til 3500, så jeg har nok læst forkert :-(
Weebyx,
can I add my word of thanks as well?
Without your tutorial I think that it would have been too much for a mere amateur like me to contemplate.
New belts on the Beogram 7000 means that with Beoworld's help I now have my BS7000 up and running again, such joy.
great stuff
Gary
Hope you still read/follow this post.
I registered to thank you.
Without your tutorial, i won't be able to fix my beocord 7000.
I didn't unsolder pcb and put back the white pulley was tricky but other than that your instructions where straight forward.
Great tutorial. Very helpful. Thanks.
Hi
thanks a lot for this great tutorial.
I was wondering if anyof you can direct me (or share) the dimensions of the tape rubber belt for the ouverture and for the century.
I found that the ouverture should be 8.5cm diameter and 5 mm width but not sure is correct. No data found for the century one.
thanks a lot for your help
stay safe!!
vespa: Hi thanks a lot for this great tutorial. I was wondering if anyof you can direct me (or share) the dimensions of the tape rubber belt for the ouverture and for the century. I found that the ouverture should be 8.5cm diameter and 5 mm width but not sure is correct. No data found for the century one. thanks a lot for your help stay safe!!
I can supply correct cassette belts for both - and many others.Email or PM me.
Question whether this is due to that the tape belts are slipping or what; but when I'm fast-forwarding or rewinding tapes I've noticed that it's goes quite fast in the beginning of the tape but once it hits 50% of the tape and get closer to the end ~20% it goes slower and it's not like it's adjusting to the near end it more like it's struggling to fast-foward or rewinding the tape. Belts or something else?
If belts are not new - replace belts.
If belts are new:Bad running tape and/or motor in need of lubrication and/or (depending on drive version) need for lubrication of idler wheel(s) etc.
Martin, would do you use for lubricate for motor? For the idler wheels I assume it's lithium grease being used.
I have just completed the work on my Beocord 7000. Replaced all th belts and gave it a good clean. Thee one problem i have is when I replace th top securely the control buttons are catching the top on it's way out and in. There is no way to adjust the hieght so I don't know why this is happening. I like you was very grateful for the tutorial. Now going to try and make some stands for my B & O RL140 speakers.
Layesera: control buttons are catching the top on it's way out and in.
control buttons are catching the top on it's way out and in.
Check that the button panel sits correcty in the groove at the inside top of the front panel.
Thanks for that, That was part of the problem, also the ribbon cable is hard and pressing up on the control board. I am frightened to force it too much, also but looking closely the front panel is slightly curved as is the top. I think it has been stored badly. I bought the whole 7000 system off someone who didn't really care about it. The Beocord had ordinary elastic band around the pulleys, there are only two of the red clips that hold the board down and for some reason all the pulleys were covered in this hard white stuff which took me ages to clean. He also removed all the rubber feet for some reason or the other. Anyway, it is all working great now, Thanks again for your help. I have sent off the cartridge for the Beogram to be repaired and when that arrives it's complete.
The white stuff is most likely some kind of "rubber rejuvenator" or other miracle-spray-on-and-it-will-fix-all-your-problems agent.Functionality is usually doubtful and always short-lived, but it's safe to say that most of this stuff leaves a mess beyond description.
New rubber feet, belts, drawer tires etc. can be found in Beoparts-shop.
Thanks for that, Every bit of information is helpful. It's all a learning curve with this gear.