ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
I need this
Jacques
I think this is more like it! Please Dave, don't tell me I need a Thorens Beogram 3000. I KNOW!
Great photo Jacques, looks brilliant with the Beolab 5000 system!
Ben
Ben_S: Great photo Jacques, looks brilliant with the Beolab 5000 system! Ben
It does, doesn't it?
I think the Beocord 1500 fits this old system better than the Beocord 2400. Same veneer, silver VU-meters, hammered grey paint...
I will soon get to the electronics. There are two values of electrolytic caps: 85 µF and 125 µF. I think I'll go for 100 µF blue Vishays for the lot - about 30 of them!
Today, replay head adjustment. An unnerving process this. Especially given the condition or the rubber cushions And no, it's not Play-Doh
There are two for each head, plus two more for the tape guides.
Søren, do you have the same problem?
I replaced the replay head cushions and adjusting it was possible at last
chartz:Søren, do you have the same problem?
Yes, but I am learning from you, as you maybe remember I put mine away after test, I was still thinking about how far I want to go with it, there are small problems with the slide potentiometers, the caps measured good except for 2-3 caps. I will open it again at a later time, get parts and do it all as you do. Did you get new rubber cushions
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
I cut small bits out of a silicone hose.
Hello!
Today I replaced some capacitors.
But first I transformed the radio card (602-L31) into a line input.
I pulled four resistors up on one side, and I removed the two 80 μF caps.
Then I put two straps to short input/output (near the connector). Fully reversible. I just let the old caps there.
I'm sure a line adapter was available.
I noticed that B&O used a lot of solder back then, my desolder braid reel can tell! The whole thing shouts "quality"!
Then, the caps, values all over the place. Between the 125 μF and the 80 μF ones I settled for 100 μF everywhere!
The only problem here is that one cannot pull out the PCBs completely because the are hard-wired to the other circuits and to the rotary switch.
Record PCB.
Some more... Replay PCB. Two transistors were replaced at some point of the machine's life.
I also did the PSU. No photo, sorry. I replaced the four caps. The big 1000 μF reservoir caps still measured... 1000 μF, with a bit of ESR, but not much. Those were very good quality components.
I also rewired the transformer for 240V operation. Easy enough. Just one bridge to add (the one at right) and move the red wire one notch to the right!
Fist recording. The 'new' line input works.
I had to fabricate yet another cable to link the Beocord's line input (pins 1+4) to the CDX's output (pins 3+5). Oh well.
An AGFA (late 80's) reel is placed on the machine.
Mmm. Very close to the original CD, after a little azimuth adjustment at the replay head. I haven't touched the record head at all - or the bias settings for that matter - and the record head still runs on its old cushions!
I will have to go back to my BC 2000, hope to finish my BM 1900 today, admire your work and knowledge Jacques
Hi Søren, and thanks!
Another video, recording, monitor mode. To give you courage
I too restored a BM1900 two years ago. A little gem, this.
Courage is there and the BC 2000 is a little easier than the 1500 to work with I think, all PCBs comes out, where I have a little doubt is whether to open the slide poties for cleaning or just wash them out with ISP and then treat them with Deoxit, Nice video BTW
You know I have a Beocord 2400 too. I left the 10 (!) sliding pots well alone. Not brave enough.
chartz:
Is that sefl under 400x custom made ?
blah-blah and photographs as needed
Orava: Is that shelf under 400x custom made ?
Is that shelf under 400x custom made ?
Nope, it is a Target Hifi wallshelf I bought in 1989.
chartz: Orava: Is that shelf under 400x custom made ? Nope, it is a Target Hifi wallshelf I bought in 1989.
Kind of matching pair
Today, I wanted to repair a crack - thanks UPS - in the dust-cover. The good thing is that it is made of true thermoformed Plexiglas, which means it can be bonded with cyano glue, and residues cleaned with acetone without any damage, unlike later lids which are made of moulded plastic!
So any crack can be filled with large quantities of glue.
It now looks like a scratch. Sorry about the bad pictures, it is very difficult to photograph!
The final touch... This time with a proper SLR camera, you can enlarge if so you wish!
Can you spot the crack?
By the way... Same VU-meters, only inverted (ReVox G36).