ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Severian:The JBL L100 was what I was thinking about, you could get orange, blue, or brown foam grills. I once had a pair of the Design Acoustics D12's, the dodecahedron shaped omnidirectional speakers in blonde wood with bright blue grills. Jeff Beosound 9000, Beolab 8000s, Beogram 3000 w/MMC2, CX50s, P30s, Beovox 3000s, Beocord 3300
Beo4 'til I die!
This thing I fetched today in the small town of Köping along the E18 motorway in central Sweden. It is a Beogram 1500 with built-in amplifier. The turntable is a Beogram 1000 with needle that looks good, seen with the microscope but I cannot identify it when it is completely unmarked.
The hood is ok but quite scratched. Even the cabinet in jacaranda/redwood/palisander is nicely, if dry and in need of oil. The black plastic that frames the turntable has tough rest from something that was glued. Someone who can tell you wich pickup this is? Is it possible to use this turntable with a Beomaster, i.e. as if it were a turntable without a amplifier?
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http://tinyurl.com/qj9cjsf
Nice piece.
Take off the cartridge and look underneath.If it has no markings, it is not an original B&O but rather a cartridge from one of the many copycats and aftermarket producers ofwhich some were actually quite good (and others not quite so).
Martin
Thank you, Martin.
There are no markings at all. I´ll guess it´s a aftermarket cartridge then. I will cleen it and try to get some music out of it together with a pair of Type M speakers.
By the way, Martin. Thank you for the refurbish kit. It arrived today!
.
Brengen & Ophalen
Yes, they are blue but not as blue as in the picture. I love those speakers but the don´t sound as good as they look.
tamtapir: It is a Beogram 1500 with built-in amplifier.
This was our first B&O, bought in the first year of our marriage from B&O in the Camberwell area - but our speakers were small bookshelf models
BeoNut since '75
Leslie: Nice, very nice, especially the blue speaker cloth.. I have a pair like that but not so blueish. Must be the camera.
Nice, very nice, especially the blue speaker cloth.. I have a pair like that but not so blueish. Must be the camera.
Not necessarily. Some of the earliest individuals of this first generation of pressure chamber speakers camewith a cloth that was much more grey'ish and a bit more course looking. Most often seen on Type B and M.The earlier grey ones are usually still fine, whereas the later blue'ish ones tend to become so brittle and delicate youcan put your finger right through.
Leslie: Got a Beogram 5005 which has a dull and dirty platter! Not anymore. Have been using bathroom cleaner and voila! Look at the dirt that comes off...
Got a Beogram 5005 which has a dull and dirty platter!
Not anymore. Have been using bathroom cleaner and voila!
Look at the dirt that comes off...
Boy, I hope that platter doesn't start to oxidize in the next few days.
Leslie: No way, since I have done this many times and they still look shiny even after months or do you think this oxidizing process begins after a few months, half year? Forgot to tell that I 've been using a sort of spray furniture wax!
No way, since I have done this many times and they still look shiny even after months or do you think this oxidizing process begins after a few months, half year? Forgot to tell that I 've been using a sort of spray furniture wax!
I had a bad experience with an RX2 platter once. To be perfectly honest, I do not remember how I tried to clean it, but it has many white spots on it now. My solution - put it in the attic and buy another one!
Most B&O platters are treated with a special coating from the factory.It's here to protect the platter and to prevent static build-up by discharging the record.It also makes the metal slightly skin-like to the touch (that is pleasant rather than cool - like the Beolink 1000 etc. remotes), but that is secondary here.It also protects the aluminum from airs moisture etc.
Anyone who ever tried to clean one of these platters will know that the coating washes away quite easily andnothing in this world can bring it back.
Leslie may have more luck than most people and indeed he has some craftsmanship but, I must admit, I doubthis luck in this case.The platter may end up completely shiny but that's not the original look (which may or may not disturb the owner)but it's a definite sign that the protective coating has gone and with it its antistatic properties etc.
I would recommend you never clean the B&O platters. Dust it and leave it at that.If you have a well defined stain on a platter - and really nothing to lose - try rubbing it using a finger with alittle spit on it. But be swift. Don't let it sit for many seconds, wipe off immediately or you will end up with ashiny unprotected spot. Airs moisture etc. will eventually attack it and it will go more or less white from oxidation.Never use any solvents, soaps or cleaners.
The same coating is found on the aluminum finish Beovox C30, C40, C75, CX50 and CX100 speakerswhere the above also applies.
Leslie: Dillen:I would recommend you never clean the B&O platters. Dust it and leave it at that. who wants to look at a dirty fingerprinted platter and with stains. Won't buy that, looks horrible and really disturbs me.
Dillen:I would recommend you never clean the B&O platters. Dust it and leave it at that.
who wants to look at a dirty fingerprinted platter and with stains. Won't buy that, looks horrible and really disturbs me.
Still, you bought 25 or more Beograms with dirty and stained platters ?Where do you find those anyways ?
How many Beograms have I sold ? - Many!How many with dirty platters ? - Zero!How many with ruined antistatic coating ? - Zero!- But I've thrown out many platters that were cleaned inadvertently by owners and replaced them.
It's your things. Do as you please with them, Leslie.You are much too wise to listen to 35 years of experience, I accept that and I won't comment more on this subject.Let's allow other readers to make up their own mind.
Leslie, it's very clear that you can't accept that others disagree with you and you can't accept criticism.Actually, I already decided once not to comment anymore on any of your posts, Leslie.I did an exception today ONLY to warn other Beogram owners from cleaning their platters.I've tried cleaning platters myself many years ago and came to the conclusion that they looked stunningly shiny at first but didn't last.One fingerprint and it's gone.I never came up with the thought of adding wax to a platter, though, and I dare not think how you did.I won't add wax to mine, they are fine as per factory.
Wiseguy ?No, I won't go there.This will be my last reply to any of your posts, present or future. Hope this makes you happy.
Deep breath guys. I enjoy readying the posts on this forum but not when it descends into this sort of stuff.
The Beograms I have, I've used a damp cloth to wipe the platter with and to date have not seen any ill effect from that. However, I have seen a few Beograms where the coating quite clearly has come off, possibly due to being cleaned with a solvent or immersed in water.
Opinion seems to be divided about cleaning the platter. To me, immersing it in soapy water or solvent may work but it does appear to have a risk of affecting the coating.
Gentlemen,
I have seen this before on other audio forums. We can all be passionate about how things are done (like working on vintage audio equipment). Whether readers agree with one method of doing a repair over another, the information that comes out of the opposing view discussions is quite useful. Maybe everyone woke up on the wrong side of the bed today. In any case, I hope you both continue to contribute to this forum as I have enjoyed what you have shared.
Sonavor
I agree. Differing opinions can be a good thing. You both provide a wealth of information to this forum and it would be a sad day if the forum lost you over something like this.
Lesley and Martin,
Please take one step back, and think clearly about this. You are both too valuable to let opinions get in the way . And I should know - I have generated much controversy over the years about my own (fairly rigid) methods of restoration.
Each of you (as do I) have a method, which works in our opinions. Others may have an alternative method. None of us can return the product to EXACTLY factory-new specifications, for obvious reasons. But a product which looks as-new, and has as-new reliability is a damned-good solution.
Caveats which other members put out about certain methods, are not a condemnation of our own methods, but only a hint of what their experience has taught them. I am very happy to learn from others, and therefore improve my own techniques!
Many of us are sitting here with over 30 years experience in this business. There is little reason to lose our perspective because of another's opinions.
Menahem
Another problem with the original coating is that it will gladly take a yellow tint in a smoker's environment...
Wouldn't it be nice to know the composition of B&O's coating agent? Any spies around?
Jacques
chartz: Another problem with the original coating is that it will gladly take a yellow tint in a smoker's environment... Wouldn't it be nice to know the composition of B&O's coating agent? Any spies around?
Yes, that would indeed be nice to know. Anyway, if the platter has been damaged already by nicotine discoloration or something else, I suppose there's really nothing to lose.A replacement platter shouldn't be too difficult to find. These decks are still quite plentyful.
Dear Leslie
I have been following your threads for about 3 years now, we have had some interesting discussions and I have learned from your optical restorations.
You have always been an active and helpful member, but lately (last three month or so) your bragging about all the equipment you have, and how fast you can, optical, improve the look of the same, has been bothering me and maybe other members, your aggressive way of replying to post was bound to end this way.
Example: A member expresses a wish to own a Beocenter 9300, and up comes your replay, "you want one, I have 5" , and not only 1 time, over and over about different items. Or: "Last Sunday I re clothed 5 sets of speakers" followed by a link to 20 pics without explanation.
On the old forum, and in the beginning of the this new forum you made some exceptional threads, your replies was helpful and to the point, and it was possible to discuss and have a conversation with you.
This may be because you are trying to sell out of your hoarded equipment or it may have other reasons, but to attack a member, who has a life long experience with B&O, is an expert and dedicated collector of B&O vintage, who just wants to make sure that other members, do not make the same failure as you do, does not belong here.
Kind regards, Søren
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Dillen: chartz: Another problem with the original coating is that it will gladly take a yellow tint in a smoker's environment... Wouldn't it be nice to know the composition of B&O's coating agent? Any spies around? A replacement platter shouldn't be too difficult to find. These decks are still quite plentyful. Martin
A replacement platter shouldn't be too difficult to find. These decks are still quite plentyful.
If the platter is unsightly I will generally replace it before sale.
Regards Graham
I would very much like to know of a lasting solution for these aluminium platters.
Even though the parts may be plentiful, outrageous postal costs are making a big question mark in the equation of the financial ability to repair or replace.
A large item like a platter costs a small fortune to ship from Europe or the USA to Israel.
I recently bought a BeoGram in the USA for parts, and had it shipped to a friend in the USA to disassemble it, and mail it to me. I took all the parts except for the platter and chassis, which would have added about another $120 to the already high postal cost.
The more work I can do in-house, the more cost-effective it is all-round, and more attractive to a potential customer, not to mention more fun for me!
ablaumeise: Orava: Has anyone ever opened these motors? This one is a bit stiff, so in need of cleaning/lubricationing. Yes, quite a few of them actually. Disassembly is rather self-explanatory. Take care when lifting off the base plate (the second one - there's another casing beneath the first one) - either first lift it 5mm and disengage the brushes through the slit, or lift out the rotor together with the base plate. Clean the brushes & commutator and lube both bearings, then it should be fine for another 20+ years.
Orava: Has anyone ever opened these motors? This one is a bit stiff, so in need of cleaning/lubricationing.
Has anyone ever opened these motors? This one is a bit stiff, so in need of cleaning/lubricationing.
Yes, quite a few of them actually.
Disassembly is rather self-explanatory. Take care when lifting off the base plate (the second one - there's another casing beneath the first one) - either first lift it 5mm and disengage the brushes through the slit, or lift out the rotor together with the base plate. Clean the brushes & commutator and lube both bearings, then it should be fine for another 20+ years.
I am also there now. Exactly the same motor but with a "clicking" sound when I turn on it, maybe 2-3 "clicks" per turn. The motor is dismantled this far:
How can I proceed without destroying anything? Do I have to loose soldered connection on the circuit board in the bottom of the motor ?
Is the "clicking" sound possible to fix or should I look for another motor ?
Maybe I should get on work too. I planned to open first a motor with "rrrrrrrrrrrr" sound, just for practice. To me it looks like you r have to desolder those two big pads on motor, but I might be worng....
blah-blah and photographs as needed
Yes but if the motor clicks when rotated it's most likely because the commutator has a deformation and that's not really fixable.Go ahead, open it and take a look. You have nothing to lose.
Dillen: Yes but if the motor clicks when rotated it's most likely because the commutator has a deformation and that's not really fixable.Go ahead, open it and take a look. You have nothing to lose. Martin
... and so I did. The plastic frame, perhaps a sliding bearing, that partially encloses the magnet was defective and caused the “clicking” sound. I managed to get it all in one piece again but when I now start the Beogram, the disc plate spins with excessively high speeds – and, of course, the “clicking” sound is still there.
Someone who has a replacement motor for sale? It’s a Beogram 3000 (5901) and I live in Sweden.
Orava: To me it looks like you have to desolder those two big pads on motor, but I might be worng....
To me it looks like you have to desolder those two big pads on motor, but I might be worng....
You are right, Ekorre. Thanks,
tamtapir: ... and so I did. The plastic frame, perhaps a sliding bearing, that partially encloses the magnet was defective and caused the “clicking” sound. I managed to get it all in one piece again but when I now start the Beogram, the disc plate spins with excessively high speeds – and, of course, the “clicking” sound is still there. Someone who has a replacement motor for sale? It’s a Beogram 3000 (5901) and I live in Sweden. /***
You mean this?
I would say that disk is a part what sensor is... well, sensing on electronics board...
And here is some pics (it did happen, really) from my motor.
And no violence? How do you then open these lugs?
Double shielded
Easy off with helping pliers from underside
Were it bent or did I do it?
Ok then. I may as well try to glue that plastic, and put it all back together. I just got a TX2, havent check it yet, maybe I could try this motor in it...?