ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Orava: tamtapir: ... and so I did. The plastic frame, perhaps a sliding bearing, that partially encloses the magnet was defective and caused the “clicking” sound. I managed to get it all in one piece again but when I now start the Beogram, the disc plate spins with excessively high speeds – and, of course, the “clicking” sound is still there. Someone who has a replacement motor for sale? It’s a Beogram 3000 (5901) and I live in Sweden. /*** You mean this? (pic) I would say that disk is a part what sensor is... well, sensing on electronics board...
tamtapir: ... and so I did. The plastic frame, perhaps a sliding bearing, that partially encloses the magnet was defective and caused the “clicking” sound. I managed to get it all in one piece again but when I now start the Beogram, the disc plate spins with excessively high speeds – and, of course, the “clicking” sound is still there. Someone who has a replacement motor for sale? It’s a Beogram 3000 (5901) and I live in Sweden. /***
... and so I did. The plastic frame, perhaps a sliding bearing, that partially encloses the magnet was defective and caused the “clicking” sound. I managed to get it all in one piece again but when I now start the Beogram, the disc plate spins with excessively high speeds – and, of course, the “clicking” sound is still there.
Someone who has a replacement motor for sale? It’s a Beogram 3000 (5901) and I live in Sweden.
/***
You mean this?
(pic)
I would say that disk is a part what sensor is... well, sensing on electronics board...
Yes, exactly that crack. But do you think that what I believe is a crack, a damage, in fact is a designed torn for a sensor? Or did I misunderstand you?
http://tinyurl.com/qj9cjsf
No, I think crack is a damage, I mean whole magnetic disk. You notice a hole in white plastic cover? And there is an IC on electronics board sitting in that hole. My guess is that it is somekind of hall sensor or similar.
That also means, if ther is crack in magnet is messes up whole measurement system, and speed.
blah-blah and photographs as needed
Orava: No, I think crack is a damage, I mean whole magnetic disk. You notice a hole in white plastic cover? And there is an IC on electronics board sitting in that hole. My guess is that it is somekind of hall sensor or similar. That also means, if ther is crack in magnet is messes up whole measurement system, and speed.
Ha! That explains why the player went crazy far too fast: a piece of plastic eventually fell out of the engine while I had it apart. That part was obviously necessary!
I just put motor back to one piece, and... No, it doesnt work. It speeds up much too fast... like yours I guess.
Hello all, pretty new here on the forums, but it seems like such a lovely place filled with dedicated and helpful people. Thought I could post my progress with some RL140s I picked up yesterday. Found these cheap speakers here where I live. They looked great and I needed a new project to work on.
Ok, here they are with stands. I did some initial testing earlier on and the one missing a strap sounded weird in the low end. Tools come out of the drawers and the disassembling begins:
Why did you took the cloths off, they still look(ed) ok to me? With much interest I will follow your RL project! Good luck!
Brengen & Ophalen
Thanks Leslie,
You cant see it from that picture but all 8 edges are torn, plastic sticking out. Doesn't look good in my opinion. In addition there are several beat up areas especially around the logo.
I have probably bookmarked all your RL140 work
.
Oh also, do you have any cloth recommendations? Preferably thin and with a bit of stretch capabilities. Looked into that akustikstoff.com site, but apparently they only ship EU countries...which is weird since Andorra isn't technically a member of EU.
Sweet man, what kind of refurb did you do on the stands?
Yeah, I´ll check these out, thanks man! I also got a couple of RL60s/6000s (not sure yet) incoming that will need a refurb. What I liked about Akustikstoff was that they looked to ship samples which would have been of great help. Too bad they don't ship to Norway.
Nice, my stands looks pretty good so I don't think I´ll need to attend to them right away.
Leslie: Leslie: Btw, got my self another pair including stands and wallbrackets. Did some "refurb" on the stands and they look new again. Gonna do the refoaming and reclothing of the RL140's as well... And recapping...
Leslie: Btw, got my self another pair including stands and wallbrackets. Did some "refurb" on the stands and they look new again. Gonna do the refoaming and reclothing of the RL140's as well...
Btw, got my self another pair including stands and wallbrackets. Did some "refurb" on the stands and they look new again. Gonna do the refoaming and reclothing of the RL140's as well...
And recapping...
Cant seem to find my multimeter, but you recon its a good idea to check out the caps?
Leslie: I don't know to be honest. The 1st pair RL140's sounds pretty good to me but with the 2nd pair I'm gonna do my 1st recap job. Ordered the caps at my local specialized speakershop.
I don't know to be honest. The 1st pair RL140's sounds pretty good to me but with the 2nd pair I'm gonna do my 1st recap job. Ordered the caps at my local specialized speakershop.
Ok, since everything sounded fine except for the low drivers I´ll probably leave the capacitors alone this time. Let us know how your recap goes. Take some pictures too
Per: Leslie: I don't know to be honest. The 1st pair RL140's sounds pretty good to me but with the 2nd pair I'm gonna do my 1st recap job. Ordered the caps at my local specialized speakershop. Ok, since everything sounded fine except for the low drivers I´ll probably leave the capacitors alone this time. Let us know how your recap goes. Take some pictures too
Change those caps, if you can solder it is a small job, and you will hear the difference. These caps are as old as your speakers and dry or on the way to be.
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Vacuum cleaner? Why?
Re-foaming or recapping ?
Leslie: Because a vacuum cleaner does not help? You need a blower
Because a vacuum cleaner does not help? You need a blower
I think I rather try vacuum cleaner and bursh as I dont like to have that dust allover my desk...
Vacuum cleaners suck for cleaning electronics. The fast air flow in the plastic tube creates horrible amounts of static electricity -> zap go the semiconductors...
--mika
Orava: Leslie: Because a vacuum cleaner does not help? You need a blower I think I rather try vacuum cleaner and bursh as I dont like to have that dust allover my desk...
I was just joking () considering the huge amount of dust on your equipment. I think brushing will cause static electricity as well?
Leslie: Orava: Leslie: Because a vacuum cleaner does not help? You need a blower I think I rather try vacuum cleaner and bursh as I dont like to have that dust allover my desk... I was just joking () considering the huge amount of dust on your equipment. I think brushing will cause static electricity as well?
Ah, not with ESD brush, dont ever use anything else.
There is only one machine which works correctly for cleaning accumulated dust off PCB's. A solid powerful air compressor.
If you don't have one, then go to your local carpentry shop with your machine. Open up your machine outside the carpentry shop, and bring the air hose over to your machine. After 30 seconds of high power air, your machine looks like new.
I did that until I decided to invest in a good-quality compressor in 1998 - there weren't any Chinese compressors then. Since then, it has required only one service in 2008. Paid for itself many times over, and has cleaned hundreds of machines, with no ill-effects!
Menahem
Thats might risky also. I had airblast on my former work, and I have blow components off board. Not very pleasant especially if you dont have any service manuals...
Not even once in over 20 years of using compressed air, have I ever had that happen to me. That's really bad manufacturing soldering if that happens.
And it could probably only happen on SMD components. I can't imagine in my worst nightmare that TTH (Through the hole) leaded components would ever separate from the PCB like that.
I work on B&O, Philips, Grundig, Onkyo, Pioneer, etc. I have the good fortune to be able to choose the equipment I work on - only good manufacturers.
I guess if you had some Chinese junk, which hadn't had the SMD components soldered on properly, that that might happen. But you'd need to be using VERY HIGH pressure - over 150psi to cause that kind of damage. My compressor is regulated, and I keep it at 100psi.
Søren Mexico: Per: Leslie: I don't know to be honest. The 1st pair RL140's sounds pretty good to me but with the 2nd pair I'm gonna do my 1st recap job. Ordered the caps at my local specialized speakershop. Ok, since everything sounded fine except for the low drivers I´ll probably leave the capacitors alone this time. Let us know how your recap goes. Take some pictures too Change those caps, if you can solder it is a small job, and you will hear the difference. These caps are as old as your speakers and dry or on the way to be.
Yeah? Know of any who supply caps with the RL140 in mind (packs). Or point me to info on what kind of caps I need and/or datasheet of the PCB? I make a fair amount of guitar pedals so soldering shouldn't be too big of a threat, although I have never worked with speakers before
Already ordered double-sided tape, cloth, new straps and spray glue. Looking forward to this! And if the a recap makes an impact on the sound and it is audible, then it is def worth it
Leslie: Søren Mexico: Change those caps, if you can solder it is a small job, and you will hear the difference. These caps are as old as your speakers and dry or on the way to be. Will do my friend, now I'm getting excited. But will do one RL140 speaker first and connect them both to my system to check if I hear any difference... I do the same for my Penta 3. Will let you know!
Søren Mexico: Change those caps, if you can solder it is a small job, and you will hear the difference. These caps are as old as your speakers and dry or on the way to be.
Will do my friend, now I'm getting excited. But will do one RL140 speaker first and connect them both to my system to check if I hear any difference... I do the same for my Penta 3.
Will let you know!
Definitely looking forward to hear about this Leslie. How far down the process are you? Let us know
Menahem Yachad: Not even once in over 20 years of using compressed air, have I ever had that happen to me. That's really bad manufacturing soldering if that happens. And it could probably only happen on SMD components. I can't imagine in my worst nightmare that TTH (Through the hole) leaded components would ever separate from the PCB like that. I work on B&O, Philips, Grundig, Onkyo, Pioneer, etc. I have the good fortune to be able to choose the equipment I work on - only good manufacturers. I guess if you had some Chinese junk, which hadn't had the SMD components soldered on properly, that that might happen. But you'd need to be using VERY HIGH pressure - over 150psi to cause that kind of damage. My compressor is regulated, and I keep it at 100psi.
Yes SMD, and Pioneer autohifi.. Allright, allright, they were left in rain, who knows how long time. But at the end I get them work again
Ok, I dont have nowdays possibility to use compressed air, so I have to use what I have.
Now, back to splendid FInnish Nokia beer
Orava: Before:
Before:
And now, after little ESD brushing, vacuum cleaner and ESD brushing with (external) alcohol
No more smokers heritage traces
Per: Søren Mexico: Per: Leslie: I don't know to be honest. The 1st pair RL140's sounds pretty good to me but with the 2nd pair I'm gonna do my 1st recap job. Ordered the caps at my local specialized speakershop. Ok, since everything sounded fine except for the low drivers I´ll probably leave the capacitors alone this time. Let us know how your recap goes. Take some pictures too Change those caps, if you can solder it is a small job, and you will hear the difference. These caps are as old as your speakers and dry or on the way to be. Yeah? Know of any who supply caps with the RL140 in mind (packs). Or point me to info on what kind of caps I need and/or datasheet of the PCB? I make a fair amount of guitar pedals so soldering shouldn't be too big of a threat, although I have never worked with speakers before Already ordered double-sided tape, cloth, new straps and spray glue. Looking forward to this! And if the a recap makes an impact on the sound and it is audible, then it is def worth it
Hi Per,
Nice pair of RL 140 you got there. I have a pair that is waiting to be delivered so I'll probably go and do the same refurb stuff. Cap kits can be ordered from Martin (Dillen). I guess that you live in Sweden? If so, I'm curiuos where you sourced the tape and the spray glue?
Regards,
Mikael
Beocenter Overture | Beolink passive | CX100 | CX50
Mikael: Hi Per, Nice pair of RL 140 you got there. I have a pair that is waiting to be delivered so I'll probably go and do the same refurb stuff. Cap kits can be ordered from Martin (Dillen). I guess that you live in Sweden? If so, I'm curiuos where you sourced the tape and the spray glue? Regards, Mikael
Hey Mikael, Thanks for the tip, I'll see if I get a hold of him I basically ordered everything off Ebay since it was much cheaper than in the local stores here in Norway :)
Tape (recived really fast and looks good and its 50m's!)
Foam rings
Straps
I found some spray glue at Biltema, I have no idea about the quality, but I think I will give it a try. I havent decided on where to buy speaker cloth yet (Ordered these, but not sure if I will use them). Let me know if you find any interesting and good looking cloth. What colour do you think you will go for?
Per:Foam rings
In your link good hifi says RL 140 6" inch speakers, the RL 140 has 6.5" drivers, I used these so check the dimensions one more time
Yes, you are right it says 6", I didnt notice that. Anyone got experience with the good hifi-set? Are the rings too small?