ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Orava:What is your opinion out there, is there any point to change old conponents like rectifier diodes, if they have had little heat, as innocent bystanders/casual victims, if fault is someone elses? I dont speak over cookced capasitors here, but fro exapmle medium-raw to medium-cooked semicunductors. Resistors if they are in tolerances?
I am inherently lazy, and I try not to replace anything that doesn't need replacing. Generally, this strategy has been very successful
I will replace known troublemakers, though - especially if returning to do the job later would be a lot of work (because I'm lazy, you see...).
--mika
If the semiconductor has no obvious signs of damage or corrosion, and all the voltages are fine, I do not replace them. Even though a semiconductor may have been hot or warm, if it is still functioning according to the circuit requirements, then it has not been damaged.
One cannot make a blanket statement that if a transistor is hot, it must be replaced.
If there has been damage, you will see it in the circuit voltages, no matter what the temperature of the semiconductor may be.
There is only one exception to this rule, where I will replace a good semiconductor, and that is in the case of OpAmps, or Output/Driver Transistors, where certain types are well known to have much better sound characteristics.
But generally you will have to modify the circuit to accommodate the changes.
Examples:
OpAmps - OPA2134 or LM4562 replaces old 4558's; or
Output Transistors - MJ15003 replaces old TO-3's, or
Driver Transistors - 2SC5171 replaces BFxxx.
In short, you should have a very good reason for replacing an original semiconductor, otherwise you will probably have pops and smoky smells.
Resistors
I leave them alone, except if it is practicable to replace the entire signal path with Metal-film, and then only if there is no problem with inductance (generally from low resistance values). Replacing a few here or there does nothing to improve the sound at all. It's an all-or-nothing issue.
Do not replace any carbon resistors in the power circuits, as long as they are OK.
I'm working on a lot at the moment.....
A Beocord VX5000 with capacitor issues that keeps ejecting the cassette.
A Beocord VX7000 with colour instability.
A Beocord 5000 type 4705 that needs new belts.
A Revox B77HS that needs alignment - maybe new heads which I bought off eBay last week.
A Beocord 1200 reel deck that records dull on left channel and need new clutch pads.
And a pair of RedLine 45's which need refoaming of auxiliary bass radiators - I also want to replace the horrible bass driver with a Visaton unit.
It's mostly about tape for the long winter evenings
Vinyl records, cassettes, open reel, valve amplifiers and film photography.
Menahem Yachad: If the semiconductor has no obvious signs of damage or corrosion, and all the volatges are fine, I do not replace them. Even though a semiconductor may have been hot or warm, if it is still functioning according to the circuit requirements, then it has not been damaged. One cannot make a blanket statement that if a transistor is hot, it must be replaced. If there has been damage, you will see it in the circuit voltages, no matter what the temperature of the semiconductor may be. There is only one exception to this rule, where I will replace a good semiconductor, and that is in the case of OpAmps, or Output/Driver Transistors, where certain types are well known to have much better sound characteristics. But generally you will have to modify the circuit to accommodate the changes. Examples: OpAmps - OPA2134 or LM4562 replaces old 4558's; or Output Transistors - MJ15003 replaces old TO-3's, or Driver Transistors - 2SC5171 replaces BFxxx. In short, you should have a very good reason for replacing an original semiconductor, otherwise you will probably have pops and smoky smells. Resistors I leave them alone, except if it is practicable to replace the entire signal path with Metal-film, and then only if there is no problem with inductance (generally from low resistance values). Replacing a few here or there does nothing to improve the sound at all. It's an all-or-nothing issue. Do not replace any carbon resistors in the power circuits, as long as they are OK.
If the semiconductor has no obvious signs of damage or corrosion, and all the volatges are fine, I do not replace them. Even though a semiconductor may have been hot or warm, if it is still functioning according to the circuit requirements, then it has not been damaged.
Pretty much same thoughs as Mikas and Menahems here. Question rise from Beomaster I got recently , it did smell like "whats coocking", and there actually was dough inside... Some powersection components have burned board pretty dark, but no visible sings of damage and everything measures good now. So all I did was resoldering.
On other hand , there is saying "if it isn't broken, dont fix it". Well if you are tru DIY'er there is also saying "if it isn't broken, break it and then fix it"
blah-blah and photographs as needed
Søren Hammer: I'm working on a lot at the moment..... A Beocord VX5000 with capacitor issues that keeps ejecting the cassette. A Beocord VX7000 with colour instability. A Beocord 5000 type 4705 that needs new belts. A Revox B77HS that needs alignment - maybe new heads which I bought off eBay last week. A Beocord 1200 reel deck that records dull on left channel and need new clutch pads. And a pair of RedLine 45's which need refoaming of auxiliary bass radiators - I also want to replace the horrible bass driver with a Visaton unit. It's mostly about tape for the long winter evenings
VX5000, intresting. I just bought one. I didn't recieved it yet, but intresting... I read somewhere that there is ir reviever possibility for it as accesory, is there? Can it be self made?
Søren Hammer: I'm working on a lot at the moment..... A Beocord VX5000 with capacitor issues that keeps ejecting the cassette. A Beocord VX7000 with colour instability. A Beocord 5000 type 4705 that needs new belts. A Revox B77HS that needs alignment - maybe new heads which I bought off eBay last week. A Beocord 1200 reel deck that records dull on left channel and need new clutch pads. And a pair of RedLine 45's which need refoaming of auxiliary bass radiators - I also want to replace the horrible bass driver with a Visaton unit. It's mostly about tape for the long winter evening
It's mostly about tape for the long winter evening
Soren, you must be the only person in Denmark wishing for heavy snow this winter. ;-)
valve1: Soren, you must be the only person in Denmark wishing for heavy snow this winter. ;-)
Haha, we are a selected few who wish that; I do my repairs and service with a friend who also has some projects for the studio we're working at. Not hi-fi related, mostly 8 channel tube (Valve) microphone preamplifiers, alignment of tape decks, fooling around with wiring and so forth
@ Orava:
It actually has two tuners built in - one for standard use and one for picture-in-picture (up to 8 channels simultaneously
Søren Hammer: @ Orava: It actually has two tuners built in - one for standard use and one for picture-in-picture (up to 8 channels simultaneously
Um, I did mean remote ir reciever...
Yes you can get hold of a remote IR sensor - it connects using a 3.5mm jack plug. It looks like an MCL sensor without the Mute and Timer buttons.
I bought one on eBay and modified the connector to use it as an IR sensor with an MCL converter, so you could probably reverse engineer an MCL sensor to use with the VX.
Guy
there's one for sale here!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/B-O-Bang-and-Olufsen-sensor-for-Beocord-VX-5000-/290841281293?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Compact_Shelf_Stereos&hash=item43b77dc30d
Guy: there's one for sale here! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/B-O-Bang-and-Olufsen-sensor-for-Beocord-VX-5000-/290841281293?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Compact_Shelf_Stereos&hash=item43b77dc30d
Oh, it would be nice, but I like to see player first (to know what I have bought), sensor cost 5 times more than player....
yes it is a bit expensive - I think I paid less than £5 for my sensor.
Guy: Yes you can get hold of a remote IR sensor - it connects using a 3.5mm jack plug. It looks like an MCL sensor without the Mute and Timer buttons. I bought one on eBay and modified the connector to use it as an IR sensor with an MCL converter, so you could probably reverse engineer an MCL sensor to use with the VX. Guy
Have you any pics inside sensor, how is it different? (Just got MCL2A)
I have not taken my VX sensor apart, but if B&O have been consistent with their colour codes you should be able to connect the MCL2A sensor to a 3.5 mm stereo jack plug so that you can use with the VX.
For the 3.5mm jack plug, connect the Green wire (+5V supply to sensor) to the tip, connect the yellow wire (IR data) to the middle section and connect the Brown wire (earth) to the Outer connection closest to the base of the plug. Leave white and grey (serial data and clock - both not needed for VX) unconnected. I think this should work so give it a try!
(Edited - I initially listed yellow and white the wrong way around!)
Ok, thanks. I check while I have time
They have been so friendly, at factory.
They made elements in dimensions where I can use same pots for inner and for outer side of surround
Brengen & Ophalen
Beolab6000
Looks great ha?
Absolute
Orava:They made elements in dimensions where I can use same pots for inner and for outer side of surround
As I like to understand and one day maybe speak another language, I´m very glad when I can learn new words, now I know. Perinteinen = driver surround installation tool.
Great tools Orava, when refurbishing B&O, you learn to "think on your feet".
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Leslie: Looks great ha?
Is that sunburst method?
It do make a difference...
I tought, there is coil rattling inside, but no.
Inners of coils.
Isn't it white...
No. It's very Shiny!
This weekend I will work on a Beocord 5000 (4715) and a pair of U70.
http://tinyurl.com/qj9cjsf
tamtapir: This weekend I will work on a Beocord 5000 (4715) and a pair of U70.
6
Looks like I need some new belts.
/***
I can help, I have two that actually work...
Jacques
chartz:I can help, I have two that actually work...
Nothing to do Jacques, looking for job
Thank you, chartz. I will certainly need some help and good advice, and receive it with gratitude. This deck looks really nice. Palisander wood (redwood-jacaranda-whatever). There is a small notch in the front edge on the aluminium bar. Otherwise clean and fairly scratch-free. Tape transport is working satisfactorily. There is only audio from the right channel when I use it through the reciever. However, when I listen with headphones, both channels are working. A previous owner has tinkering with the DIN-plugg and I suspect that the fault is in there. On the whole, is it ok (touch wood) right now and a welcome addition to the beautiful setup consists of BM 6000, BG 6000, 4 pieces BV S60 and now including Beogram 5000. I want to change the drive belts (5 pieces?) pretty soon and look forward to open up this awesome gadget again. /***
Thank you, chartz. I will certainly need some help and good advice, and receive it with gratitude.
This deck looks really nice. Palisander wood (redwood-jacaranda-whatever). There is a small notch in the front edge on the aluminium bar. Otherwise clean and fairly scratch-free. Tape transport is working satisfactorily.
There is only audio from the right channel when I use it through the reciever. However, when I listen with headphones, both channels are working. A previous owner has tinkering with the DIN-plugg and I suspect that the fault is in there. On the whole, is it ok (touch wood) right now and a welcome addition to the beautiful setup consists of BM 6000, BG 6000, 4 pieces BV S60 and now including Beogram 5000.
I want to change the drive belts (5 pieces?) pretty soon and look forward to open up this awesome gadget again.
Well on one of my decks, the headphone output was okay, but I had only one channel working too at the output.
Are both vu-meters working?
By the way, Martin has a belt kit ready for you!
Oh Really? What was the fault of the channel that was missing? Both my vu-meters are working.
Yes, I have seen that Martin has repair kits for these. I'm going to find him and order a set. Have you changed the belts on your?
A marriage between 2 BeoGrams
Actually finished now, and sounds magnificent!
Menahem
chartz: Well on one of my decks, the headphone output was okay, but I had only one channel working too at the output. Are both vu-meters working? By the way, Martin has a belt kit ready for you!
I slowly return from the dead (the flu) and has taken hold of a relatively simple problem on Beocord 5000 4715. It was clear that some former owner has opened the 5-pin DIN connector for any purpose so I figured it was best to check the contents. When I opened it was a red wire loose and shortly went the adjacent blue cable.
I have two manuals, "Service instruktion" and " Teknisk produktinformation " as physical books and the owners manual in pdf. In none of them I can find the order in which the colorful cables will sit in the connector.
My sketch shows lead from solder side and I was wondering if it is correct if I solder the cables so.
Here in Danish, lower right is the plug seen from solder side pin 1-4 is tape sound in, 3-5 sound out, 2 is common ground, colors are different, but your pic looks right
Hvid=white, Gul=yellow, Rød=red, Sort=black, 2= ground
Søren Mexico: Here in Danish, lower right is the plug seen from solder side pin 1-4 is tape sound in, 3-5 sound out, 2 is common ground, colors are different, but your pic looks right Hvid=white, Gul=yellow, Rød=red, Sort=black, 2= ground
Thank you, Sören.
I soldered the two loose wires and now I have sounds from both channels on this beauty! Och danska kan jag läsa riktigt bra. /***
I soldered the two loose wires and now I have sounds from both channels on this beauty!
Och danska kan jag läsa riktigt bra.
tamtapir:Och danska kan jag läsa riktigt bra.
Tänkte inte paa at du ár svensk, jag har 15 tapes indspelat med nästan alle mina 45er, mest rock, 5000 stack (pizza box)
This is actually a what will you be working on next.
I recently picked up an 8000 system from the original owner. It had been in storage and not used for quite a while. The main pieces I was interested in were the 8000 console and the Beomaster 8000. The picture here shows the console, Beomaster and a Beocord 9000. The 9000 was one I already had but need to do some maintenance on. That will have to wait. What I want to work on next (after I finish my current Beogram 8002 repair) is the Beomaster 8000. It looks wonderful as you can see in the picture. However, the "clipping" indicator light stays on (even with the volume at zero). I don't have the speaker switches engaged and nothing is connected to the receiver. So I will have to prepare for a cleaning, recap and idle adjustment at the very least. Knowing my typical B&O refurbish projects, there will likely be some big surprise waiting for me on this one. I have the original service manual and technical manual so with help from the Beoworld forum experts I should be able end up with a nice 8000 system: Beomaster 8000, Beocord 9000, Beogram 8002 and a pair of Beovox MS150.2 (or MS150). This system came with a pair of Beovox MS150 speakers (including the stands, pictured). Last year I started out just wanting a pair of MS150's. Now I have three pair and one angry wife who is wanting to know where they are going to go :(. After I refoam the two new pair I will have to choose two to get rid of I guess.
-sonavor
not much
Never before has paint peel off with old tape! Nothing used but bare fingernails, may there be different paint types used...?
Usually I use plastic (lexan leftovers) to clean up panels because it is safe for paint, not this time. Ah well, a little painting to do.
I hate that felt stuff in there.