ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Re soldered the rectifier DC side and gingerly powered up with the variac…..at around the 60vac mark a smell of something getting hot was present....not burning..as I quickly wound it down, just hot, powered off and will investigate further....
Removed the tuning curser and thumb wheel, looks a little sad....got a new Perspex on order with Martin. The front panel has been dispatched to Denmark for Frede to work over for me.
The alloy tuning curser frame has cleaned up a little, but will never be the same as when new.....and the damping felt will need to be replaced.
Overall I don't think it's in that bad a condition.....however I do need a plug for the antenna, if anyone has one spare ;¬)
Craig: Overall I don't think it's in that bad a condition.....however I do need a plug for the antenna, if anyone has one spare ;¬)
Martin has plugs
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Thanks for that Soren.....got one on order with Martin, spent a little time sanding, wire brushing and priming some of the iron work
This old boy, power supply smoothing capacitor has to go...……….
There she goes...…...
And some felt for the slider compliments of my long suffering partner...……..
Double post
This was never solved.
Jacques
Looking good!
You'll see, that Beomaster is a truly excellent tuner.
How do you intend to fix the back panel then? Here's a picture of mine to inspire you. My DIN sockets were rusty too, but not the panel itself.
Jacques.....mine is never going to look that good I'm afraid....not without loosing the text. Base is in a mess and the legs are ruined...
Oddly the feet where riveted in place, not held in place with screws like the others I have replaced....drilled them out and applied the wire wheel to the loose paint.
And this little lot turned up today from Martin......the new curser is a delight to behold!
Yes, the original feet contain humidity which is released when the rubber desiccates, unfortunately, hence the rust.
Yes, the original feet contain humidity which is released when the rubber desiccates (dries out), unfortunately, hence the rust.
Well....I've had a bit of a go at this rear panel.....but I cant help thinking it looks like what it is, an attempt to "tart up" an aging panel.....so I'm leaning towards a full sand down loosing the text but providing a clean result.
My thinking here is that if tou don't know what the adjustments are for you shouldn't be playing with them....and if you don't know which output is which you shouldn't be plugging anything in.....so unless anyone can come up with a better rationale then that's the way I will take!
Print labels, use a photo editor
Hi Craig,
Waterslide decals that can be printed with an inkjet printer onto special paper would normally be great here. But as you have a black surface and want white symbols, you probably need to use white decal material and print a black area around blank symbols. There are various youtube tutorials.
Regards,
Johan
Gentlemen
This sounds like a way forward.....I can get waterslide decals with a white background from a supplier in the UK, however I need some good solid images of the rear panel text...mine are badly worn.....Soren where did you get the image you posted in your reply, I could use a full set of such images?
Craig
I copied it from Jacques pic earlier in this thread, I have 3 BM 5000 here will check the best later today
I have this one waiting for restore, will take sectional close up pics
Soren
Thank you very much, I appreciate you doing that for me. I have done a bit more research into the waterslide transfere thing and as you cant easily get white ink, I think if I use a white background sheet and inkjet/LaserJet the black onto it, leaving the white outline, it will be difficult to get the right shade of black to make the thing appear invisible against the black of the rear panel (if that makes any sense). So I'm considering using a clear sheet and inkjet/LaserJet the text in yellow...….oh and this turned up today ;¬)
Check the inks, they normally wash off easily with soapy water, maybe a seal with polyurethane could help, the fronts from Frede are beautiful
Hi,
Silly idea maybe, but if you spray the metal panel (partially) white, print black on transparent decal stuff (leaving the characters blank), they will appear white. Using large bits of decal might be more elegant than an array of patches. Just a thought.
Good luck!
I have thought about preparing one full transfer for all the text as this would be easier to get everything lined up straight....would need a A3 size sheet and a A3 printer...I have access to a A3 laser printer so its possible.....and how about this curser now its cleaned up?
Need your mail for pics, send your mail to nielsen@nigraph.com
Some 20-25 pics send, check your mail
Well....thanks to Sorens stirling efforts with his camera I am able to produce the templates for the water slide decals I intend to make, I'm quite pleased with the first attempt.
The way I'm going to approach this is to get the scale right first by trial and error (there is plenty of copier paper in the office) and then with the correct size sorted out choose the best colour for the text...white would be the obvious choice however that's not possible with the office laser printer....yellow looks a little to faint....
And the scale on the first attempt is a little off....so I will be taking the panel to the office tomorrow to get it right.
Before taking the entire panel down to bare metal and obliterating the existing text forever...…..
Hmm... maybe a couple of hours with a program where you can draw the different symbols, scale the text correctly and place it with the correct distance between each other would be a better option in terms of sharpness and quality? This will also make it possible to have it UV printed directly onto the part. Just don't mention or show it on this forum if you reproduce the 'BEOMASTER 5000' and 'B&O' logo. It's highly frowned upon, apparently illegal and you will risk having your thread closed...
/Dennis
How are you Dennis, long time no see
Dennis: ... Just don't mention or show it on this forum if you reproduce the 'BEOMASTER 5000' and 'B&O' logo. It's highly frowned upon, apparently illegal and you will risk having your thread closed... /Dennis
... Just don't mention or show it on this forum if you reproduce the 'BEOMASTER 5000' and 'B&O' logo. It's highly frowned upon, apparently illegal and you will risk having your thread closed...
Indeed the reproduction of a companys registrered trademark logo is strictly illegal. I wouldn't do it.Same goes for the crown, which is a royal insignia only used by companies appointed by the royal family, and of course the royal family themselves.Having said that, I doubt B&O will take any action as long as you don't put it on something homemade and/or something you plan on selling.
All other lettering is no problem.
Martin
I am surprised that the Danish royals still allow B&O to use the crown symbol given some of the boring cr*p the company turns out nowadays.
Regards Graham
Søren Mexico: How are you Dennis, long time no see
I'm good, thanks. Yes, it has been a couple of years since the last time I posted on Beoworld. It was also about that time I met my girlfriend, so spending many of my weekends at her place a couple of 100 kilometers from home and the rest of my weekends fixing and enjoying my cars left very little time and interest for my B&O. After starting to study 'Maskinmester' (Bachelor of Technology Management and Marine Engineering) in Esbjerg and moving together with my girlfriend in Ribe, I am finding myself having a bit more spare time and the other day suddenly found myself searching for vintage B&O. Still haven't brought a single piece of my B&O with me though, but that will change soon. Let's see if the red labelled pair of M100s I'm picking up Friday can bring back the Beovirus a bit...
Hope all is well in Mexico
Oh, and very nice job on the Beolab 5000 by the way, Craig! Makes me want to fire up my Weller again and replace some dried out caps.
Dennis:After starting to study 'Maskinmester' (Bachelor of Technology Management and Marine Engineering)
I like that, I have my German "Meister Maschinenbau" and have been working with big printing machines now for nearly 50 years, The bigger the better, keep it up Dennis and good luck with it. Søren Hammer was doing the same study in Aarhus, he must have finished it by now, as you he has been away from the forum for a couple of years. Sorry for going off topic Craig.
Hey no worries Soren....it's good to see old friends connecting ;¬)
Well.....we have crossed the Rubicon!
taken down to bare metal and primed prior to a few coats of satin black....I have some decal transparent sheets on order, however I'm struggling getting a good contrast with the black background due to the absence of white ink.....seems the printers assume a white background when proportioning out the ink mixes to produce a given colour....doesn't work on a transparent sheet...unless you place it over a white card...I will try using a primary colour today, but this may end with a "no text" outcome....but will that be so bad?