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ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022
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This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022

 

Beolink 7000 back light and recapping.

This post has 58 Replies | 18 Followers

BO
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BO Posted: Thu, Nov 22 2012 9:05 PM

I received a package with some components from Conrad.

 


My Beolink 7000 with very weak back-light.



Assistant

 

1. Remove the two screws

 

2. Remove the cap.

 

3. Remove the last two screws.

 

4. Remove glass panel, don´t touch the inside. Be aware that the small four corner nuts don´t fall out.

 

5. Test the voltage. Should be around 130V

 

6. Disconnect display pcb from the other units. Be gentle with the ribbon cables. 

 

New electrolumiscent film.

 

Testing

 

7. Slide fixing rails to the left and remove them to release the LCD front frame. 

 

8. Remove front frame

 

9. Unsolder old film.

 

10. Unfold LCD display. Try not to touch the surfaces, especially the inside. Be very careful with the "rubber" profiles still on the glass. Those are the actual leads from the PCB to the LCD, if the will be miss positioned or contaminated with dirt dust or grease you will get an improper or faulty readout from the display.

 

11. Remove the luminescent foil. It's attache with two stripes of double sided tape on the backside.

 

Old and new.

 

12. Mark the size. Assure that you get the lead in the same position.

 

13. Cut it to correct size.
 

 

Ready for assembling.

 

14. Mount the new foil in position with two stripes of double sided tape on the back side. put the leads through the holes in the PBB.

 

15. Solder and reassemble in opposite order as the disassembling.

 

16. Testing....I do believe it's working...good...
 

 

17. Adjust the LCD contrast.
 

 

Potentiometer for contrast adjustment of the LCD.

 

18. And now the recapping, unsolder and remove tin housing. The five now visible capacitors should be replaces. The two violet ones to the left, the two smd´s in the middle and the green one to the right. This has been described in other threads  so I won't go deep into it.
 

 

19 Prepare the new components.

 

 

20. Soldered in place.
 

 

21. All components changed. Be careful with the small smd´s, the can be tricky to solder due to its small size. I also changed all other electrolytic capacitors. Not necessary now but just precaution.
 

 

22. Reassembled and working perfect again.Smile
 

 

 

//Bo.
A long list...

elephant
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elephant replied on Thu, Nov 22 2012 9:13 PM

excellent - you are a LEGEND Yes - thumbs up

BeoNut since '75

Leslie
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Leslie replied on Thu, Nov 22 2012 9:44 PM

Now THAT'S what I called a workinstruction! My great compliments to you BoYes - thumbs up

Please post others you did with your B&O gear (I know you did)Whistle

Brengen & Ophalen

Leslie
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Leslie replied on Thu, Nov 22 2012 9:51 PM

Can you show us the BOM (Bill of Materials)?

Brengen & Ophalen

BO
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valve1
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valve1 replied on Fri, Nov 23 2012 4:06 PM

Great post Bos00 !

SEMG
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SEMG replied on Wed, Dec 19 2012 3:41 PM

Sorry, Can anyone help with how to get the "Red One line status display" repaired - Totally dead, but two way communication works great when programming Timers ?

Søren Mexico
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Top job Bo, congrats, I actually lived in Halmstad from 73 to 81

Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.

BO
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BO replied on Wed, Dec 19 2012 4:58 PM

Søren Mexico:

Top job Bo, congrats, I actually lived in Halmstad from 73 to 81

Interesting, I moved here -84. I bet you miss the rainy winters Wink

Regards

Bo

//Bo.
A long list...

Peter
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Peter replied on Wed, Dec 19 2012 5:42 PM

Staggering! Wonderful job and beautifully presented. I am deeply impressed.

Peter

BO
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BO replied on Wed, Dec 19 2012 8:01 PM

Peter:

Staggering! Wonderful job and beautifully presented. I am deeply impressed.

Thanks

//Bo.
A long list...

MartinM
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MartinM replied on Fri, Dec 21 2012 7:55 AM

Hi,

I also have a couple of BL7000's that have fairly weak back lights. After reading this thread I decided to have a go at replacing the backlight as well as full recap and battery replacement on both BL7000's. I ordered a couple of backlights from Conrad and caps from Mouser. Followed the instructions in this thread and have successfully completed the replacement. Only tricky part was aligning the display contact pads with the contact pads on the PCB.

 

Top is the cold source backlight from Conrad. Lower is the Original B&O Backlight. Interestingly the backlight voltage on my Beolink measured about 95 volts. Yet to measure what it is on the other BL.

 

Picture below shows the display board and keyboard flipped up exposing the lower CPU board. Even though two way communication worked on this remote I decided to replace all the capacitors since I had the remote apart. Just as well as the IR area around the top of the display board had the tell tale fishy smell of the leaking SMD caps. My ESR meter will read up to 20 Ohms but it would not give a reading on the SMD caps! Amazing the comms still worked.

 

Lower CPU board removed and shows the Sanyo CR2430 battery. This measured around 3 volts but I decided to replace it with a new one considering it is 20 plus years old.

 

Beolink on left with new backlight. Difficult to photograph, but it is very bright and clear. Display looks washed out in photo but it is just the camera having difficulty with the two brightness contrasts. Photo does not do it justice. Beolink on right is next up for same treatment.

 

BO
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BO replied on Fri, Dec 21 2012 10:06 AM

MartinM:
I also have a couple of BL7000's that have fairly weak back lights. After reading this thread I decided to have a go at replacing the backlight as well as full recap and battery replacement on both BL7000's.

Very nice to see. Smile

As you mentioned, aligning the contact pads are the delicate thing in this operation.

 

 

//Bo.
A long list...

Leslie
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Leslie replied on Fri, Dec 21 2012 10:23 AM

Great job  MartinM, now I definetely will give it a try myself. Ordered the components at Conrad.

I have seven of those that needs new backlights so let's start with one first!

Brengen & Ophalen

BO
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BO replied on Fri, Dec 21 2012 10:30 AM

@Leslie,

I like your new profile picture. Big Smile

//Bo.
A long list...

Leslie
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Leslie replied on Fri, Dec 21 2012 10:51 AM

Some don't but hey, it's Christmas and nothing happened today (yet)!

Brengen & Ophalen

MartinM
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MartinM replied on Sat, Dec 22 2012 7:34 AM

Disassembled my next BL7000. Here is the reason why I remove the CPU board and replace the battery.

I've desoldered one leg and bent the battery back on the other leg exposing the underside of the battery. As can be seen, the battery has started to leak.

 

Close up view of the leaking battery. Last thing you want is acid on the very small traces on the pcb. Even if the battery looks ok, I still replace it given its age.

Leslie
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Leslie replied on Sat, Dec 22 2012 10:51 PM

That's a great shot! Never knew that this could happen! Will check mine(s) if it has the same issue.

Waiting for Conrad partsSmile

What type of battery is this and how can you replace a new one since this has been soldered. Is it save to do soldering on a new battery?

Brengen & Ophalen

MartinM
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MartinM replied on Sun, Dec 23 2012 2:59 AM

The battery is a Sanyo Lithium CR2430 (24.5mm diameter by 3mm thick). I bought some replacement batteries locally that have the solder tabs. I definitely wouldn't recommend soldering directly onto this type of battery.

Take lots of care when desoldering the battery and use an ESD safe area if you can.

 

MartinM
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MartinM replied on Sun, Dec 23 2012 9:01 AM

I'm in the process of cap, battery and backlight replacement of my other BL7000. I've taken some photos here that I missed with the other one regarding the display alignment.

Display flipped up and backlight removed, ready for replacement. You can see the contact pads on the display and the black contact pads on the pcb.

 

Once the new backlight has been cut to size and fitted, fold down the display and ensure the contacts line up as per next photo.

 

You can see the contacts on the display edge that must line up with the contacts just visible below.

 

Dillen
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Dillen replied on Sun, Dec 23 2012 9:19 AM

Very nice thread, good job and very good photos !  Yes - thumbs up

One thing though; Please do this repair ONLY in an ESD-safe environment.
There's a lot of sensitive circuits and components in a Beolink 7000 and it will only
take the slightest static discharge to do permanent damage.

I am aware that far from all people have a complete prof. ESD-safe electronic workshop at their disposal but, fortunately,
less will usually do.
I would recommend a good wrist-strap connected to a grounding point in the Beolink 7000 as a minimum.
One of the ESD field service-kits available on Ebay and elsewhere would be next step up and definitely worth its small
cost if you are going to do more repairs of this type or similar.
Something like this (random pick at Ebay): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ESD-FIELD-SERVICE-KIT-ANTI-STATIC-MAT-WITH-LEADS-AND-WRIST-STRAP-ANTISTATIC-/290805486759#ht_297wt_448

Martin

tournedos
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tournedos replied on Sun, Dec 23 2012 9:47 AM

Dillen:
I am aware that far from all people have a complete prof. ESD-safe electronic workshop at their disposal but, fortunately,
less will usually do.

There are a couple of things that will help as well:

  • Avoid doing the work in very cold weather, as the dry central heating air will help to accumulate static electricity (this in a Nordic context: +5°C and constant rain is not cold weather...)
  • Don't wear a synthetic sweater or other "electric" clothing (cotton is good)
  • Keep the cats well away Big Smile

Once you hear the static electricity, it is up to thousands of volts already. Old MOS technology integrated circuits and transistors may only need 50 volts or so to sustain permanent damage without you noticing it at all.

This is an excellent thread Yes - thumbs up

PS never solder directly on lithium cells, if you value your vision!

--mika

MartinM
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MartinM replied on Sun, Dec 23 2012 9:18 PM

Great advice. Also, I store any boards I'm not working on in anti-static bags. A computer shop is often a great source for these.

jumperger
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jumperger replied on Tue, Apr 16 2013 10:03 AM

Hallo to all of you,

I'm new to this forum and I want to thank you for the very interesting reading.

I own a AV9000 for 21 years now, but as in 1992 I only had the money to buy control center TV and 2 beolab 8000 and beolink1000, I recently bought a beolink7000 on ebay.

As it must be the two way communication does not work, looking for information I found this thread. Thank you!

I want to order the caps from Conrad, but I'm asking myself if there are other caps in the Beolink 7000 that will also have to be replaced, even if they are not related to 2way-communication?

@BO

you are writing :

The five now visible capacitors should be replaces. The two violet ones to the left, the two smd´s in the middle and the green one to the right. This has been described in other threads  so I won't go deep into it.

I searched the forum for other threads, but I did not find any . Some infos were found on the Archived Forum, but the Links posted are dead.

Are there infos I did not find?

I will shortly tell you what are the problems with my BL7000

Battery-pack faulty -> already replace by myself

only 1-way communication

When the remote is lieing on the table it does not "stand-up" on wake-up from stand-by.

Settings are : "MOVE" auto

when I set move to manual and then press the move button the display stands up.

 

Perhaps you do have some tips and tricks for me

Thank's in advance

jumperger

Davedj
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Davedj replied on Wed, Nov 23 2016 9:39 AM

What are all the capacitors that need replacing? And what value are they?

Is there a service manual available at all?

 

I have already changed two capacitors ( 680uf - 25v and 220uf 16v) and it still reads no contact.

Weebyx
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Weebyx replied on Thu, Nov 24 2016 4:34 PM

Davedj:

What are all the capacitors that need replacing? And what value are they?

Is there a service manual available at all?

 

I have already changed two capacitors ( 680uf - 25v and 220uf 16v) and it still reads no contact.

https://plus.google.com/photos/112793489141580542769/albums/5532075977679022401?banner=pwa

 

/Weebyx

BO
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BO replied on Fri, Nov 25 2016 10:14 AM

MINI ELEC CAPACITOR 4,7UF 50V''-40/105 GR

SMD ELKO 22UF 16V 85ª STANDARD

RAD, EL CAP 105°C 6,8 µF 63V 5X11 RM2

 

RADIAL EL CAP 105°C 680 µF 25V10X19 R 

These are the ones I've changed.

//Bo.
A long list...

jamesbong
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jamesbong replied on Mon, Jun 12 2017 9:51 PM

So I currently own a BeoLink 7000 and I am having a problem on Step 5.

When I  test it to see it's voltage, nothing happens. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvMEtjbzl1aS1vcmc

I noticed that you ordered some parts from Conrad, but they don't ship to America so I am stuck with nothing to do.

Can you suggest an alternative location I can order the capacitors from?

I have also tested my electrolumiscent film and it is working fine.

The same wires that are connected in Step 5 seem to have a short circuit, but the wires are not tangled up. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvYjNNbE5JSnNZUHc

I was wondering what could be the problem for that and if there was a solution for it.

Weebyx
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Weebyx replied on Tue, Jun 13 2017 6:54 AM

jamesbong:

So I currently own a BeoLink 7000 and I am having a problem on Step 5.

When I  test it to see it's voltage, nothing happens. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvMEtjbzl1aS1vcmc

I noticed that you ordered some parts from Conrad, but they don't ship to America so I am stuck with nothing to do.

Can you suggest an alternative location I can order the capacitors from?

I have also tested my electrolumiscent film and it is working fine.

The same wires that are connected in Step 5 seem to have a short circuit, but the wires are not tangled up. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvYjNNbE5JSnNZUHc

I was wondering what could be the problem for that and if there was a solution for it.

Are you measuring alternating voltage at the backlight ? The voltage for backlight is approx. 110-130v AC, not DC.

Did the backlight work before you disassembled it, or was it completely dead ? I had one with a faulty SMD transistor that caused the backlight to not turn on. Also make sure that the flat cable on the back of the mirror cable, is attached correctly in the holder. Try to unlock it, and take it out and put it back in. This can also cause backlight to not turn on.

Regarding the "short circuit" this is not a short, it is just that you are measuring the connection between the AC transformer that provides the 110v AC.

/Jacob

 

jamesbong
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jamesbong replied on Wed, Jun 14 2017 5:16 AM

Weebyx:

jamesbong:

So I currently own a BeoLink 7000 and I am having a problem on Step 5.

When I  test it to see it's voltage, nothing happens. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvMEtjbzl1aS1vcmc

I noticed that you ordered some parts from Conrad, but they don't ship to America so I am stuck with nothing to do.

Can you suggest an alternative location I can order the capacitors from?

I have also tested my electrolumiscent film and it is working fine.

The same wires that are connected in Step 5 seem to have a short circuit, but the wires are not tangled up. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvYjNNbE5JSnNZUHc

I was wondering what could be the problem for that and if there was a solution for it.

Are you measuring alternating voltage at the backlight ? The voltage for backlight is approx. 110-130v AC, not DC.

Did the backlight work before you disassembled it, or was it completely dead ? I had one with a faulty SMD transistor that caused the backlight to not turn on. Also make sure that the flat cable on the back of the mirror cable, is attached correctly in the holder. Try to unlock it, and take it out and put it back in. This can also cause backlight to not turn on.

Regarding the "short circuit" this is not a short, it is just that you are measuring the connection between the AC transformer that provides the 110v AC.

/Jacob

 

Thank you for the quick response Jacob.

I am in need of this device working so hopefully you will be able to help me with fixing my problem.

I have measured the backliight with both AC and DC and neither have seemed to work out.

The backlight did not work on the device previously, but when I plug it into a 110v AC directly, I can see the backlight working.

I'm not sure what a "SMD transistor" so, it is possible you can specify what part of the device that is, and explain what it does?

I have dismantled every cable on my BeoLink 7000 and have plugged them back in, so I do not believe that this was the problem.

Thank you for clarifying that it was not a short circuit.

I had plugged in the 6v battery into the transformer and there seemed to be no reaction when I tested it.

I figured that either the transformer or the capacitors on the device are not functioning properly, is there any insight you can give me to this problem?

Is there a way to test if the transformer [in the picture below] is functioning properly?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvZnY4QXRoRlVTdHhGY0tBMDlUdEpYSzJEVkpJ

Also, is it possible that you are able to give me the specifications of the transformer?

There seems to be no writings on the device itself to tell me what kind of transformer it is.

Thank you for taking the time to help me with this.

\James

Weebyx
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Weebyx replied on Wed, Jun 14 2017 6:47 AM

jamesbong:

Weebyx:

jamesbong:

So I currently own a BeoLink 7000 and I am having a problem on Step 5.

When I  test it to see it's voltage, nothing happens. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvMEtjbzl1aS1vcmc

I noticed that you ordered some parts from Conrad, but they don't ship to America so I am stuck with nothing to do.

Can you suggest an alternative location I can order the capacitors from?

I have also tested my electrolumiscent film and it is working fine.

The same wires that are connected in Step 5 seem to have a short circuit, but the wires are not tangled up. [Image in the link below]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvYjNNbE5JSnNZUHc

I was wondering what could be the problem for that and if there was a solution for it.

Are you measuring alternating voltage at the backlight ? The voltage for backlight is approx. 110-130v AC, not DC.

Did the backlight work before you disassembled it, or was it completely dead ? I had one with a faulty SMD transistor that caused the backlight to not turn on. Also make sure that the flat cable on the back of the mirror cable, is attached correctly in the holder. Try to unlock it, and take it out and put it back in. This can also cause backlight to not turn on.

Regarding the "short circuit" this is not a short, it is just that you are measuring the connection between the AC transformer that provides the 110v AC.

/Jacob

 

Thank you for the quick response Jacob.

I am in need of this device working so hopefully you will be able to help me with fixing my problem.

I have measured the backliight with both AC and DC and neither have seemed to work out.

The backlight did not work on the device previously, but when I plug it into a 110v AC directly, I can see the backlight working.

I'm not sure what a "SMD transistor" so, it is possible you can specify what part of the device that is, and explain what it does?

I have dismantled every cable on my BeoLink 7000 and have plugged them back in, so I do not believe that this was the problem.

Thank you for clarifying that it was not a short circuit.

I had plugged in the 6v battery into the transformer and there seemed to be no reaction when I tested it.

I figured that either the transformer or the capacitors on the device are not functioning properly, is there any insight you can give me to this problem?

Is there a way to test if the transformer [in the picture below] is functioning properly?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwCA79DC4kKvZnY4QXRoRlVTdHhGY0tBMDlUdEpYSzJEVkpJ

Also, is it possible that you are able to give me the specifications of the transformer?

There seems to be no writings on the device itself to tell me what kind of transformer it is.

Thank you for taking the time to help me with this.

\James

Hi james..

http://forum.beoworld.org/forums/p/11818/103230.aspx#103230

 

Here is some information on the transistor and capacitor I have changed in mine where the backlight was completely dead.

You can see in the schematic that the TR37(transistor) is a BC817-25v and the C15(Cap) is a 10nF, I used 50v for that 

I don't think the issue is the transformer, as it seems you have the exact same problem as mine.

/Jacob

 

BeoMedia
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BeoMedia replied on Sat, Jan 20 2018 8:22 AM
Hello, I’m looking for a better version of the BeoLink 7000 Service manual as the one I have as pdf is almost unreadable. Can anyone please help? Many thanks
Silou
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Silou replied on Sat, Jan 20 2018 10:32 PM

Me too Cool

Thanks

 

BeoMedia
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BeoMedia replied on Mon, May 7 2018 11:20 AM

Hello Bo and thank you for your shopping list.

However, I notice that beyopdn the LCD backlight film you have placed an order for 8 capacitators but I understand the BeoLink 7000 recapping only needs 5? (2 being SMD).

I haven't opened mine yet so not sure which I need for recapping to resolve the "no contact" issue.

 

Could you please help me as to which from the shoppign list I need. Perhaps all of them but where do the remaining 3 capacitators go?

 

Kind regards, BeoMedia

toptip
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toptip replied on Wed, Mar 20 2019 4:13 PM

Hi,

I have two of these and opened one a year ago to replace the backlight, it has since been sitting like that but given this very helpful write-up, I will give it a go. 

My real question when I opened it had to do with this connection. Reading the above, I understand the lining up of the pins part, of course, but I am still a bit confused about how one can assure so many pins will ALL make contact! Is there any trick to it? It just seems to me that it would be very fortunate indeed if they did. I keep thinking whether I can use another method, like soldering thin wires, but appears a bit implausible.

I will appreciate.

Kasse
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Kasse replied on Sat, Feb 29 2020 3:27 PM

A rather old, but yet very useful thread! However, the links for Conrad doesn´t work anymore and searching for the components brings up to many choices. Can someone with more knowledge than me put a "shopping list" together at Conrad for re-capping a Beolink 7000?

BeoPlay A9 Mk. II "Special Edition" - "Smoked Oak" 

Beosound Stage "Contrast Collection" - Anthracite

Beoplay M5 - Black

Beomaster 7000 + Beocord 7000 + Beogram 7000 MMC1/2 + Beogram CD7000 + Beolink 7000 + Beolab 8000

Beocenter 9500 + Beolink 1000

AUX Expander "Custom Mod" (built-in Bluetooth streaming)

Kasse
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Kasse replied on Sat, Feb 29 2020 10:33 PM

Never mind; I did find the correct parts at Conrad. When (at Conrad) going to the shopping basket, the partnumbers listed on page one can be entered and added directly; that worked.

BeoPlay A9 Mk. II "Special Edition" - "Smoked Oak" 

Beosound Stage "Contrast Collection" - Anthracite

Beoplay M5 - Black

Beomaster 7000 + Beocord 7000 + Beogram 7000 MMC1/2 + Beogram CD7000 + Beolink 7000 + Beolab 8000

Beocenter 9500 + Beolink 1000

AUX Expander "Custom Mod" (built-in Bluetooth streaming)

John
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John replied on Mon, Jun 15 2020 3:11 AM

Did you have any luck finding the backlight film?  Conrad Desoto ship to the US and the parts listed previously are all sold out.  Does anyone have any good sources?  I have a shop down the street that can do it I just have to tell them where we can get the parts.  

BeoMedia
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BeoMedia replied on Mon, Jun 15 2020 6:39 AM

I just had a look on Conrad and if I’m looking at the right part (article number 1565919) it says it will be back in stock 17th June. 
BeoMedia 

BeoMedia
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BeoMedia replied on Mon, Jun 15 2020 6:39 AM

I just had a look on Conrad and if I’m looking at the right part (article number 1565919) it says it will be back in stock 17th June. 
BeoMedia 

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