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Beo4 controlling BeoLink Passive

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ciotera
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ciotera Posted: Thu, May 9 2013 7:10 PM

Hi-

Right now I have a set-up with two BeoLink passives each driving a set of speakers in the upstairs bedrooms with IRs installed in the walls. I do not yet have a B&O audio system, so I bought the cable from Steve at soundsheavenly to link my iphone to the BeoLink passives and test if the whole system works (I just moved into this apartment, so this is all "inherited" I didn't even know if the speakers are blown or not). The good news is, everything seems to work as far as sound and connections inside the walls and ceilings. The bad news is the only thing that I seem to be able to control via Beo4 in the upstairs bedrooms is the mute function. No volume, treble, bass which I thought were supposed to be controlled independently from the audio source. I do have A.Setup activated and do get the items to show up but when I push the up and down buttons, nothing changes. The mute function (by pressing between the arrows) works perfectly though, so the remotes are working and interacting with the IRs/BeoLink. Is this because of the "unconventional" set-up that I have? Or am I wrong, and you cannot control the volume unless you have a B&O audio source hooked up on the other end?

Any advice is much appreciated !

Guy
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Guy replied on Thu, May 9 2013 7:15 PM

What are the IR sensors in the bedrooms?  Round silver ones or rectangular grey (or white)?

This will determine the system that you have installed.

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Thu, May 9 2013 7:16 PM

it's the older (rectangular gray ones)

Guy
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Guy replied on Thu, May 9 2013 7:27 PM

In a previous post I think you indicated having a single ML/MCL converter driving both sets of upstairs speakers, which effectively makes it an MCL system.  I assume that your iPhone is connected into the  ML/MCL converter.

You should be able to control the volume of this 'system' but be aware that the volume will change in both rooms if they are being supplied by a single amp.

You may need to change the Option setting of the individual rooms.  Press the Power button and LIST simultaneously on the Beo4, and then press LIST until OPTION? is shown. Press GO and then LIST until L.OPT is shown, then press 6.

Then try the volume control again and see what happens.

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Guy replied on Thu, May 9 2013 7:32 PM

Make sure that the system is switched off before changing the option setting, and carry out the procedure in each of the bedrooms.

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Thu, May 9 2013 7:47 PM

You are right - the ML/MCL converter is driving the speakers upstairs.

Thanks so much for the instructions! Will try this as soon as I can and report back!

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Fri, May 10 2013 11:59 AM

Sorry, Guy-

I followed all of the instructions to the point and repeated the procedure several times but it sill did not work. I wrote back to Steve at SoundsHeavenly and he seems to be of the opinion that it doesn't matter whether it's an ML/MCL converter, it'll still behave as BeoLink Passive and will only allow control of these functions (volume, treble, bass) if there is a MasterLink connection to a B&O audio system.

But thanks for all your help.

Guy
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Guy replied on Sat, May 11 2013 3:15 PM

That's a shame - I am very surprised that even the volume does not work from the link rooms.

I just rigged up a system a bit like yours to try a few things.  I connected a ML/MCL converter as a stand alone amp to power the MCL part of my system, effectively making it the same as your bedroom system.  Unfortunately I do not have one of Steve's special cables, so I cannot trigger the amp with powerlink.  (I may try to make a cable later tho..)

Anyway, your problem is the lack of a B&O system connected to your passive - you need something to act as what is called an 'audiomaster'.  You could buy a second hand B&O system, but there is another cheaper solution, albeit with limitations.  You can buy a BeoLink converter type 1611 (approx. £20 on eBay) and connect it to your ML/MCL converter with a short masterlink cable (from Steve).

You can then connect your iPhone to the AUDIO AUX socket on the BeoLink converter.

This will enable you to switch on the amp from the link bedrooms (by pressing TV on the remote) and adjust the volume.  Mute also works but Bass and Treble are unavailable sadly.

It all works well - mine is playing with this set up at the moment!

Of course you could just take the plunge and buy a proper B&O audiomaster.  There's plenty available secondhand and lots of advice on this forum.  You really need to make sure that whatever you buy has both powerlink and masterlink connections.

I hope this helps - please come back to me if I have confused you further!!

 

 

 

Guy
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Guy replied on Sat, May 11 2013 3:46 PM

Guy:

 Mute also works but Bass and Treble are unavailable sadly.

Correction:  You can adjust BASS, TREBLE and BALANCE from the link rooms with the BeoLink converter setup described.  I did this with a Beo4 using A.SETUP.  The only problem is that you have to cover the end of the remote and select an audio source (RADIO, CD) first in order to make sure that A.SETUP shows up when pressing the LIST button.  This probably varies for different SW versions of Beo4.

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Sat, May 11 2013 11:00 PM

Thanks for all your help, Guy!

I am tempted to go down the BeoLink converter path (since I do not really listen to CDs anymore and plan to set up AirPort Express and just stream music to the amplifiers). But I assume I will need two BeoLink converters in that case, one for each amp, and then a splitter between them and Airport Express?

Alternatively, I'll just splurge and get a BS9000 + Airport Express connected through AUX. I plan to use masterlink to connect BS9000 to the upstairs bedroom amp (link room) and powerlink to connect it to the downstairs amp. Sounds like that way I should definitely be able to control most relevant functions from the link room (power on, AUX, play, volume, treble, bass, etc., and I can skip tracks using the iphone, ipad or whatever else I'm using for streaming). Plus, it gives me the radio and CD playing capabliity which may come in handy at times. So, not a bad investment overall.

One question - if I implement the above set-up, what level of control do I have in the main room? I assume I can control the BS9000 direclty but what does that mean for the link rooms? If I wanted to mute the music downstairs but have it still play upstairs, is that possible? In other words, when I mute the BS9000 itself, does it mute the powerlink and masterlink outputs simultaneously (in which case the link rooms are muted too). Similarly, if I change the volume on the BS9000 itself, does it affect the volume in the link rooms?

Thanks again! You've been really helpful, Guy!

Guy
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Guy replied on Sat, May 11 2013 11:13 PM

Hi again,

With regard to your first question, I think that a single BeoLink converter would work with Masterlink cable connected to both amps in parallel.  That is how ML is supposed to work.

If you do set up the BS9000 system, then volume control, mute etc will be independent.  The BS9000 should mute the Powerlink but not the Masterlink - the latter is muted only via the MCL IR boxes in the bedrooms.

The BS9000 solution is definitely preferable, but you may be pleasantly surprised by the functionality of the cheaper Beolink alternative!

A BS9000 is not the only option, how about an Overture (with ML), or BS3000/3200 - potentially cheaper and less temperamental?

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Sat, May 11 2013 11:19 PM

So would I need a splitter of some sort to connect the BeoLink converter via masterlink to two amps in parallel? Or are they supposed to be daisy-chained? Forgive if my questions are stupid - I'm really very new to all this.

I think the previous owner did have an Overture, but I just find BS9000 visually very attractive (I know, it's like I'm buying furniture, not an audio system :)

What's temperamental about BS9000 - is the CD mechanism prone to failure?

 

Guy
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Guy replied on Sun, May 12 2013 9:32 AM

You can join Masterlink cables together in parallel using junction boxes like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bang-Olufsen-MasterLink-Junction-Box-x-5-BRAND-NEW-/151042347993?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item232ad353d9

Hence yes the two amps would be in parallel off the single BeoLink converter.

I don't have personal experience of BS9000 (but I agree about the looks!) but from reading a few threads here some people have problems with the lasers (easily replaced, I think).  If buying one, I would go for a reputable second life seller such as Lifestyle where they probably offer some form of warranty.

There's no such think as a stupid question here!  The ones that you are asking all make perfect sense given that you are new to B&O!  But if you are not careful it will become an addiction and you will build up quite a collection!

 

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Sun, May 12 2013 2:32 PM

Thank you, Guy-

One more clarifying question. With a single BeoLink converter connected to both amps via masterlink, would I have independent control of the main and link rooms? I understand that the link rooms will be controllable via Beo4 (at least power on, volume, treble, bass, etc.) but what about the main room? It looks like I will have very limited control there, as in having to manually disconnect the masterlink connection to the main room amp if I want the music to only play upstairs? And volume will be controllable only through the input device (e.g., iphone)? Or am I misunderstanding something?

If that's the case, then I am leaning toward buying an audiomaster, such as BS9000 (even if the lasers go bust, I'll still have the AUX connection to the Airport Express, I assume).

Thanks for the encouraging words. It's ok if I end up addicted to B&O products - it's not the worst addiction I could get.

Guy
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Guy replied on Sun, May 12 2013 3:38 PM

Another good question!  With a single BeoLink converter the main room amp would need to have an IR sensor, ideally the round ML type.  This would plug in to the IR socket on the amp, hence operating in the traditional BeoLink passive mode.  This would give you independent volume control etc in the main room.

(For the upstairs system, the rectangular IR sensors would providing the same function through the MCL wiring, hence controlling their passive amp).

Of course if you had a proper audiomaster connected to the main room by Powerlink, then the audiomaster's built in IR sensor controls that room.

 

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Sun, May 12 2013 3:58 PM

Makes total sense, Guy!

Thanks again for all your help.

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Mon, May 13 2013 1:36 PM

One more (hopefully, last) question.

I just purchased a BS9000 and am now evaluating the different ways in which I could connect it to the amps. Originally, I thought that it would connect via masterlink to the upstairs amp and via powerlink to the downstairs amp. But given that I can split the masterlink connection, maybe I can just use masterlink for both? Or would that take away my ability to control the main room independently from the link rooms?

Guy
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Guy replied on Mon, May 13 2013 1:53 PM

Congratulations of buying the BS9000.

In theory you could use masterlink for both and still have independent volume but you would need an IR sensor for the downstairs amp.

In addition, I think that the radio on BS9000 only works if it detects that powerlink in connected - this is by design for some reason and others may be able to explain further.

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Mon, May 13 2013 2:02 PM

Thanks, Guy!

I think I'll play it safe and connect through a powerlink cable. Wanted to avoid having too many cables go from the BS9000 to the cabinet where the amps are stored, but it's not a huge priority.

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Guy replied on Mon, May 13 2013 2:05 PM

I had a quick search for where I knew that BS9000 info from - look at Steve's last post on this thread as it may be relevant:  http://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/4833/43642.aspx#43642  

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Sat, May 25 2013 9:29 PM

Hi, Guy-

I have another stupid question.

So I got the BS9000 and hooked it up to both amps (masterlink to ml/mcl that drives upstairs and powerlink mk2 to beolink passive that drives downstairs). The upstairs works just fine, I can control everything through the IRs as I'm supposed to. But downstairs I get nothing. Not a sound. I even tried to connect downstairs through masterlink too, again nothing. The amp stays red, doesn't turn green at all, but it still works when I use Steve's cable to connect my iphone to the powerlink socket. What am I doing wrong? Do I need a powerlink mk3 cable? But why doesn't masterlinlk work with the passive? Does it only work with ml/mcl converters? Then why does the passive have a masterlink input? I'm confused :( Any help is much appreciated, as always!

Thanks in advance!

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Sat, May 25 2013 9:31 PM

Correction to the above - I think I have Powerlink MK3 not MK3 (I have the thinner one).

Guy
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Guy replied on Sat, May 25 2013 9:38 PM

Masterlink won't work with the downstairs passive unless you also have an IR sensor attached to the Passive.

The downstairs amp should work with the Powerlink connection.  I think that you may well need the Mk2 'fully wired' Powerlink cable, so that the signal to turn the amp on is also sent.

The ML/MCL and Passive are identical bits of kit - have you tried simply swapping them to see if your system performs the same way?

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Guy replied on Sat, May 25 2013 9:43 PM

A further thought ...

Have you tried using Steve's splitter cable, with your BS9000 plugged into one of the PL sockets and his 'power supply trigger' to the other?  If this works, it will prove that you need a fully wired/thick PL cable to make it work!

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Sat, May 25 2013 10:18 PM

Just tried this, Guy, and it didn't really work. Steve's cable turned the amp on but then no sound was heard from the speakers. Not a perfect test, obviously.

I will try swapping the amps and seeing what happens, but I don't know what it'll prove?

So the best bet is to buy a mk2 powerlink and see if it works?

Guy
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Guy replied on Sat, May 25 2013 10:39 PM

Swapping the amps will prove that your Passive works - because your Passive should be able to supply the upstairs speakers in the same manner as the ML/MCL. (EDIT: But you proved that it works with Steve's kit ... so don't bother! Smile )

Have you played around with the Option setting on your BS9000?  I think it needs to be in Option 1, which is set with the Beo4 using the following:

- Hold the • button while pressing LIST.

- When the Beo4 display reads OPTION?, press GO.

- Press LIST to display A.OPT, and then key in the appropriate number (i.e '1').

However, I really think that a Mk2 PowerLink cable is the solution. 

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Sat, May 25 2013 10:46 PM

Thanks. But don't I already know that my passive works because it works with Steve's cable?

Also, will the passive be able to work with the upstairs speakers if it's connected via powerlink? I thought one needed masterlink to be able to control (e.g., turn on) the amp from upstairs?

Guy
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Guy replied on Sat, May 25 2013 10:57 PM

ciotera:

Thanks. But don't I already know that my passive works because it works with Steve's cable?

Yes - I just realised that and edited my response!!  Sorry.

I think that the passive should be able to work with the upstair speakers even when connected by PL - however I have just done some further research..

The circuit diagram for the Passive shows that it relies upon a signal from Powerlink PIN 1 to power up.  The Mk3 PL cable does not have PINs 1, 6 and 8 connected, hence the Passive is not getting the instruction to turn on.   You need a Mk2 fully wired cable.

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Sat, May 25 2013 10:59 PM

Thanks, Guy!

As always, you have been incredibly helpful.

I have already purchased a mk2 powerlink cable, should get it in a couple days. Keeping my fingers crossed! Thanks again!

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Guy replied on Sat, May 25 2013 11:11 PM

No problem - I am looking forward to hearing that it is all working!

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Nick replied on Sun, May 26 2013 8:17 AM

Hi, 

  You need to use a mk2 (thicker) powerlink to turn the amp on.  Hopefully this will solve your problem!

 

Thanks

Nick 

ciotera
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ciotera replied on Sat, Jun 1 2013 12:39 PM

Thanks, everyone! And especially Guy!

The thicker powerlink cable did the trick - everything works perfectly now, even the airport express that's attached to the aux audio input.

All is left is to mount it on the wall and figure out the best way to hide all the cables going to the cabinet with the amps. But that can wait.

 

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Guy replied on Sat, Jun 1 2013 1:38 PM

No problem - I am very glad that it works and many thanks for the feedback!

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