ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Hi
I am trying to open an LC1 but once the bottom cover is off you can see that it will not come this way.
But more likely from the top.
Could someone tell me if there are screws under the metal plate ???
Or the square infrared window is glued ???
This reply is somewhat late but may be of assistance to others:Remove the bottom plate and unscrew the connecting wires. There is a screw that secures the plastic base to an inner metal "cube" which contains the electronics. You will need to remove this screw to release the inner "cube". As you do this note the edges of the inner metal frame where there are small metal "humps" - like a small loop on each side of the cube.Turn your attention to the top. There are no screws underneath the top, nor is it glued in place. Do not attempt to remove the top metal touch plate as you don't want to remove it. The top is pushed in placed; to remove it requires it to be eased upwards on each side, bit bit by bit. Firstly, insert a small flat screwdriver or flat bladed knife just to make a gap between the top cover which sits over the body of the LC1. The top is slightly flexible and will take a small thin flat blade; once a gap is opened, I used sheets of thin plastic to insert into the gap across the width of each side. Something like a 5cm wide strip of overhead transparency plastic - uses this on EACH side and push it up as far as possible on each side. This is to stop the top gripping the LC1 base and to assist in pushing the top cover off the base. This does take a bit of time and requires gradual EVEN easing of the top off the base. Do not force or attempt to lever the top cover off; it will gradually release if you insert the thin plastic sheets,The top will pop off and there is a connector which can then be detached (see photo).The inner "cube" will now push out of the LC1 base - push on the "loops" with a screwdriver from the bottom end being careful not to allow it to slip and cause damage. Even pushing on each side in sequence will push the inner cube out of the LC1 base after a bit of time.
The first picture is the removed inner metal "cube" - a metal frame which surrounds the electronics.
The second picture is the LC1 body with the top removed showing the connector block which accepts the connecting wire from the top
I have been able to successful repair a "dead" LC1. The parts required are readily available from CPC/Farnell and RS and other suppliers.
I replaced the two "suspect" capacitors with Nichicon 470uF/16v and 100uF/16v; these are both radial capacitors but will still fit. Vishay ones are available although I did try to stick to the same voltage settings as the originals.
The triac, BTA06-600TRG, is available and I replaced that and used a little heat transfer compound on the back of it to ensure it stays cooler. Don't lose the clip that holds it it place against the metal frame.
The battery is a 3v lithium-manganese CR2430 and should be checked - mine was OK at 2.96v - and replaced with the VARTA vertical mount one if found to be dead.
I would warn that tracks on the board can lift very easily with heat so take precautions when removing and replacing the components; low power soldering iron/small tip and use a heat sink (tweezers) if necessary. The tracks are very small and I was very lucky in that I was able to place, and solder, wire to replace lifted track around the triac.
Ensure the module is assembled correctly and carefully slide back into the base before reconnecting the mains power leads. A good magnifying glass is very useful during this repair.