ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
sonavor:Yes, and I recall reading that back when I started on the first BC9000. It didn't take me long (9 months) to forget.
Jacques
The Beocord 9000 passed its first recording test in my 8000 system. This was just a test to record an LP and use my ears to evaluate the quality of the recording. The cabinet in the photo is a new SC80 cabinet I was able to find a few months back. I still have the other SC80 but it had a lot of fading (from the sun) and I will try to get it looking good again. I don't have room for two SC80 cabinets so once I have it restored, along with another set of 8000 components, I will look into selling one of the systems off.
When I started this thread, I almost got my original Beocord 9000 working. The problem I left off at was a hum or buzz in the playback. That seemed most likely to be in Board 3 (Record Playback Module) circuitry. Tonight I pulled Board 3 from one of my other Beocord 9000 units (waiting for restoration). I recapped the Record Playback Module and used the board to replace the one in the BC9000 that has the hum. The result looks to be successful. I made a test recording with the BC9000 and the playback appears to be nice and clean.
I need to do another disassembly, cleaning and lubrication of the transport mechanism like I recently did on my Beocord 8000. Then this BC9000 will be just about complete. I have noticed a problem in the Recording Calibration with this unit. When I use a Type IV Metal cassette, the BC9000 correctly shows that a Metal tape is the tape type. When the calibration runs, it tries to set the tape type to CR. My other BC9000 doesn't do this.
chartz: Hi, How did it "pass" then?
Hi,
How did it "pass" then?
It passes my test for use in my system (for now). I have the other Beocord 9000 units to use in learning how to perform the service manual tests. The service manual adjustments I have are for the first series of Beocord 9000 decks. I have two of those so I can try it on those but I need to find updated procedures for the later BC9000 decks.
chartz: The SC80 really looks ancient compared to the equipment!
The SC80 really looks ancient compared to the equipment!
To me, the SC80 looks great. I also just acquired an SC60 cabinet. I really like those too. It will become host to my Beomaster 6000 but I could use it for my Beomaster 4400...we'll see.
sonavor: chartz: The SC80 really looks ancient compared to the equipment! To me, the SC80 looks great. I also just acquired an SC60 cabinet. I really like those too. It will become host to my Beomaster 6000 but I could use it for my Beomaster 4400...we'll see.
I love the looks of the SC80, but I think in practice I would hate it. All of my turntables (save the least used living room RX2) are set up at chest height. I can't imagine getting down on hands and knees to play a record.
I have not had good experiences with recording on any of my BC's except the BC4500. Big fan of that deck. My Aiwa and Nakamichis are head and shoulders above my BC8004. Don't own a BC9000.
chartz: Compatibility-wise, I think the 80's Beocord 5000 does a better job. Edit test on app.
Compatibility-wise, I think the 80's Beocord 5000 does a better job. Edit test on app.
Right now I have my hands full with Beomaster 6000 and 8000 units along with their corresponding Beograms and Beocords. I want to get those worked while I am in that mode. It is surprising how much better (faster) it goes after doing a few of the same unit. My next step is to get my test bench equipment configured to run some tests on these units I am repairing. I had it set up decently when I repaired the first Beomaster 8000. Then I changed my bench computer, reinstalled software, added a couple of new test interfaces...but haven't spent the necessary time to configure everything. So I will try to get that done.
Regarding the various models of cassette decks (and even amplifiers, turn tables and speaker systems), for me, this hobby is about bringing these vintage pieces back to full usability and just enjoying them. Everyone will have their favorites and their preferences for the various components (and cabinets). In 1983 I remember seeing the SC80 and the system 8000 in the store. I really liked it but it didn't fit what I wanted as my stereo back then. I wanted all separate components. I did buy the Beogram 8002 back then but I passed on the other B&O pieces. Now that I have the 8000 system (years later), I find myself really enjoying the whole B&O system experience. It is really well thought out and works great. I don't regret my stereo purchase back in 1983 though, as I still have that system too. My audio disease has just led me to the point where I can now acquire several of these systems and enjoy them all. From what I have seen of other Beoworld members, they have the same disease.
-sonavor
For the Beocord 9000 that I started this thread out with...it appears to be working now. My first work on it was to recap it, replace belts, fix the clutch, clean and lubricate it. After all of that I was experiencing a hum during playback. Recording seemed to work. Going back to that unit, I ended up taking the cassette assembly apart several times and making minor adjustments. I also re-soldered the board connectors the cassette chassis goes to.
During the rework, the playback hum went away. There was a new problem with some tape speed that I discovered was from a bad thrust roller. The roller looked good visually but during play I could see it wasn't turning true. I replaced it with another roller and now the Beocord is performing nicely. Here is a picture of the Beocord 9000 (and 8004) thrust roller. My spares come from other Beocord 9000 and 8004 units. Are new thrust rollers available for these decks?
If Martin doesn't know (or can't source them), I wonder if "perry" on tapeheads.net would know. He's in Virginia and works on all kinds of decks. Perhaps there's a correct fitting, non-B&O part.
Good suggestion. I hadn't visited that group yet. Funny thing is, two years ago, after I had been participating in this audio restoration hobby for over a year, I remember saying that I didn't think there was much use for a cassette deck anymore. However, once I restarted my vinyl listening and collecting, audio cassettes have reappeared. I haven't asked Martin about the Beocord thrust rollers yet but I didn't see any for sale on his online store. I will contact "perry" and see what he can source. I think I also need a couple of pinch rollers for my Nakamichi Dragon deck and it looks like he can get those.
The thrust roller (or pinch roller) looks pretty similar on various brands of cassette decks.
Here are some other rubber rollers/wheels that I think are unique on the Beocord 9000 (and 800x) decks.
The clutch assembly of course. This is one I repaired and cleaned up (although there is still a little belt residue in the pulley).
Also, this arm assembly with two wheels/rollers that engage with the clutch assembly.
Even though I am knee-deep into a Beogram 4000 project, an opportunity came to acquire another Beocord 9000 deck. I know that I didn't need it but I like restoring these cassette decks. These decks are fairly easy to work on once you go through a couple of them. I have done about eight now (mixture of BC8004 and BC9000). You will often see them advertised on Ebay with a statement that they just need some new belts and they should work fine. That is really an understatement. While it is highly likely that new belts will be required, there are quite a few other things that need to be done (as seen earlier in this thread). Regarding the belts though, in at least half of these cassette decks I have encountered, the old belts deteriorated into a black, tar-like goo. I am guessing it is due to the units being stored in bad climate conditions. Long term storage is always bad for audio equipment. Especially when rubber parts are involved. The first thing I do now when a new Beocord arrives is open it up and remove the belts...performing any cleanup if required. That way the belt deterioration won't get any worse while waiting for me to work on it.
Here are some pictures of the deteriorated belt condition that I have found to be common here in the USA. When you come across this scenario, it is important to go slowly and be careful with everything you touch. The black tar gets on your hands, then transfers to everything else if you don't watch what you are doing. I try to carefully pull off the remaining belt the best I can. If you rub the belt it will just smear even worse on the surface it is attached to. I use alcohol and windex to clean up the residue. Cotton swabs and paper towels are very useful here.
As bad as the belts are melted, careful cleaning will get the surfaces back to normal. Now this Beocord is ready to go into my backlog in good shape to result in a successful restoration.
And John, don't forget that Martin now has new rubber wheels for this series of decks!
chartz: And John, don't forget that Martin now has new rubber wheels for this series of decks!
Cool, even the small 12152 wheel?
Yes, everything!
I like this fix the best. I have the same problem with a broken spring mount on my Beocord 8004. I thought it was a result of lists of shipping and storage over the years as I haven't tried to operate the unit since 1996 and it worked fine at that time. After seeing all the posts here about broken spring mounts I think it is a design flaw or that the plastic mounting becomes brittle with age. I would trust a glued repair over time. If they break that easy it will break again. A through bolt fix would reinforce the mount and make it better than new.
Can you recommend the best belt set for a Beocord 8004 Please? Thanks
Stu: Can you recommend the best belt set for a Beocord 8004 Please? Thanks
For all belts, first contact should be with member 'Dillen' as he sells the correct ones.
Dave.
Stu: After seeing all the posts here about broken spring mounts I think it is a design flaw or that the plastic mounting becomes brittle with age. I would trust a glued repair over time. If they break that easy it will break again. A through bolt fix would reinforce the mount and make it better than new.
After seeing all the posts here about broken spring mounts I think it is a design flaw or that the plastic mounting becomes brittle with age. I would trust a glued repair over time. If they break that easy it will break again. A through bolt fix would reinforce the mount and make it better than new.
After working on eight of these type decks, only that first one had a broken mount. I think the problem is probably due to the decks being allowed to age without proper maintenance. That adds stress to the workings in broken mounts. At some point, the extra force on the mounts caused the mount to break. When restoring one of these Beocord cassette decks, especially coming out of long term storage, I recommend fully taking apart the cassette mechanical assembly to clean and lubricate everything. At that time, belts and rubber wheels can be replaced. Those parts are also responsible for the common problem of fast forward not working correctly.To answer your question about replacement belts, I recommend contacting Beoworld member Dillen (Martin). He has supplied me with all of my Beocord 8004 and 9000 belts and, as Jacques reported, Martin also carries the rubber wheels needed for the Beocords. With all of that work done, you will have a nicely functioning cassette deck.
Thank you
This is a fantastic post and saved me a lot of effort finding the cause for the same FFWD issue. One piece of advice to the next person to go down this path is that you may find yourself with more than you intended in your hand when you pull the lever off to clean up.
When I removed the snap ring / circlip in the photo, I pulled the L shaped lever upwards. Along with it came the sleeve it is assembled with AND the shaft that it runs on. Mine was so gunked up that the shaft that press-fits into a plastic sleeve screwed on the top plate came out of its sleeve.
No harm done, but you have to separate the shaft from the lever being pointed to in the photo and clean that interface.
There is also a plastic push fit washer on the capstan that is easy to lose when you pull the flywheel. out. I didn't but only because I had a built-up 8000 transport on the bench as a guide to what went where when I put things back together.
Now to those VU indicators......
I'm also dealing with a cracked clutch assembly on my Beocord 9000 and plan to do the brass tube fix. How can I take apart the clutch assembly without damaging? Push out the axle with a steel pin?
krais: I'm also dealing with a cracked clutch assembly on my Beocord 9000 and plan to do the brass tube fix. How can I take apart the clutch assembly without damaging? Push out the axle with a steel pin?
Just pull each side. The black wheel will slide off. You will have to use a little Loctite 242, or some cyano glue, when you put the small wheel back. The sintered brass bearings will have to be placed very slightly out above the plastic housing.
Thanks, I used a steel pin in the end as it was pretty tight.
As far as the top sintered brass bearing... ii is positioned slighty below the housing, see pics. How can I lift the bearing up without scratching it?
Another pic...
Good work!
There are two bearings actually, so they will come out by inserting something the other side with an angle and just pushing them out. Don't forget to glue them in place afterwards so that they stay put!
I was recently made aware of the battery in the Beocord 9000. Here is a picture I dug up that shows it. Does anyone know what the expected life of those batteries are and what are the options of replacement?
I purchased some of Martin's Beocord rubber wheel replacement kits and have been trying to find bench time for my Beocord 9000 decks to try them out. While I prepare for the next round of Beogram 800x restorations I decided now is a good time. One of my Beocord 9000 decks and my Beocord 8004 deck have been having some tape drive issues again. Especially on the fast forward. I had applied the temporary sandpaper trick to the drive wheel rubber and that helped for a while but it is time to go ahead and replace them now.The Beocord 9000 is the first one I worked on at the beginning of this thread. It was recapped and the mechanics rebuilt except for these rubber wheels. Here it is opened back up again. These machines are one of the easier ones to work on.
Here are the replacement wheels. There are four in Martin's kit. I also have a few spares of one of the drive wheels that I had Terry's Rubber Wheels make for me. For this repair I am going to use all of Martin's replacement wheels.
Earlier in this thread are a number of pictures of removing and repairing the clutch assembly. It is very easy to get to. The clutch assembly is the first wheel I will replace. The replacement process is pretty easy but takes a little practice in rolling the old tire off and putting the new one on.
After the clutch assembly wheel I removed the supply/take-up reel drive assembly. The drive wheel in that assembly is one I have found to usually cause problems with the fast forward operation. There are a number of pictures earlier in this thread that show how to disassemble the mechanical assembly to get to this point.
Be careful with the tiny washer and spring clip that secure the drive wheel (12152). After removing them the wheel can be replaced. It was a little harder than the first one because of the smaller diameter but I was able to get it removed and replaced.
Two wheels left to go and they are both on the same assembly. For lack of a better term I am also calling them drive wheels.
I was able to replace the wheels in place. The larger one is accessible from the top side.
The smaller one from the under side.
All four wheels are replaced so I re-installed everything and tried out the fast forward, reverse and play operations. The cassette deck performed all of them easily. Next step is to put this Beocord back into one of my working systems and use it for a while.