ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
Okay, M70 finished. Gave it my own personal touch.
Sanding, sanding and sanding...
And this is what I found to be thrown away, what is it?
Missed one part of this bracket so I made one myself, in height adjustable....
Brengen & Ophalen
Leslie: And this is what I found to be thrown away, what is it?
Don't throw it, Its from a Beomaster 8000. I can take care of it.
//Bo.A long list...
Beomaster 6000 and another BM8000 testing.
New rubber feets for the remotes
Cleaning and listening to my modified Ouverture
Need to change that bloody "TAPE" button.
Looks good as always, Leslie!
Where do you have the rubber feet for the remotes from?
/Dennis
I got these from a B&O service centre in Austria who bought my replica 4500 glasspanels. I think you can still order them at you local dealer?
Btw Dennis, I still owe you the workinstruction for how to copy Eeproms right? Still in my mind and I will show it to you later.
Great, I'll ask him when/if I go to Struer next week; depends on if I pass my final drivers licence test.
I might as well see if I can get some for my BL1000s.
Keep up the good work, Leslie!
Thanks Dennis, they cost 25 eurocent each. Bought 100 of these but maybe I need a 100 more for my remotes...
And you will pass your license. Have confidence...
Dat klopt Leslie, het complete 4-kanaals systeem in witte uitvoering. De P50's zien er fantastisch uit overigens. Ik kijk uit naar de foto's van de volledig gerestaureerde Beomaster. Neem je de Beogram ook nog onder handen? De Beocord was een verloren project helaas heb ik destijds van je begrepen, jammer.
Yesterday Olly (Step1) told me that my BM6000 quad is almost finished. Can't wait to make the complete setup. Yes Jaap, Beogram 6000 and Beocord 6000 is finished as well. All in white..
Yep, working on "rare" Beomaster 5000, alle recapped and cleaned and all working...
Old caps needs to be replaced.
With testcertificates and manuals for both labs and master.
Now waiting for my "rare" Beolabs 5000 to be finished. Must be done by the expert Ipaul!
Next. almost finished my refurb on my 'rare" Beolink 7000.
Units are recapped for full functionality of the 2-way remote.
One unit I replaced the backlight. Need to do the other ones as well.
New caps for getting 2- way back to life.
New backlight.
New belts
Cleaning contacts of the charger.
New caps.
Remove touch plate.
New plates, corners neatly rounded.
Double side sticky tape on the touch panels and new piezo sensors.
All chargers to be dismantled.
Resprayed.
Now they look like new!
Result.
Now my modified Beo4 cinema where the light was not working.
Cutting holes in EL foil.
Testing light EL foil with holes.
Wow !!!!! I just went back from holidays and discover all your work !!!!! Incredible to see what you are able to do so fast ;)
You know what Jacques, today after work (holiday is over) watching the Dutch winning again I started refurbing my Dirigent 609K and Beovox type K. Will show you lots of more pictures after I'm finished. :-)
The Netherlands and France are still doing a great job!
Took my Beovox type K apart. Needs a lot of work but my god what an uggly speaker this is! I still have another pair of Beovox 5000 to be restored.
Leslie, What kind of foam do you use to clean the beocord cover? (page 1)
Wouter
Leslie: Took my Beovox type K apart. Needs a lot of work but my god what an uggly speaker this is! I still have another pair of Beovox 5000 to be restored.
never saw these but the dirigent is superb
Wouter: Leslie, What kind of foam do you use to clean the beocord cover? (page 1)
Jacquesboo: Leslie: Took my Beovox type K apart. Needs a lot of work but my god what an uggly speaker this is! I still have another pair of Beovox 5000 to be restored. never saw these but the dirigent is superb
Gimme a sec my friend, gonna post some pictures...
Leslie: Wouter, de foam (schuim in een spuitbus) heb ik erbij gekregen toen ik stofkappen liet maken door mijn perspex leverancier.
Wouter, de foam (schuim in een spuitbus) heb ik erbij gekregen toen ik stofkappen liet maken door mijn perspex leverancier.
Mijn dank! Werkt het goed, of zal eindeloos schuren met een hele fijne korrel een beter resultaat geven?
Valt tegen, polijsten tot je een ons weegt en vooral niet met schuurpapier aan de gang gaan. De heldere glans zul je nooit meer terug krijgen alhoewel sommige op dit forum beweren dat ze het wel voor elkaar gekregen hebben. Ik gebruik om nog enig resultaat te krijgen Brasso koperpoets. Werkt goed!
Of een nieuwe kap laten maken.
This is how I got it. Dirigent 609K with stereo decoder
How do I do this removing all the rusty spots? Will think of something...
Hmmmm..
Repair veneer
Buttons and powerlight perspex cleaning
Alu foil came loose so making a new one
Looks horrible don't it?
Making a start to sand...
New backpanels..
The rest will follow...
Super awesome!
Please send more pics!
Don't worry Derek, I will....
Type K speakers almost finished...
Cleaning RL curly curly....
Next step, repair of my Dirigent and another Beo 608.
Looks interesting Leslie
I know from who you've bought this... Drost from Marktplaats ?
From that person cames also my Grundig active loudspeakers and my Grundig R-48 receiver :)
Good luck with it !
My god, orange team is great! Bye bye Mexico...
Dirigent inside cleaned and old caps replaced..
Nice work, Leslie !
If I may add a few comments;
First;Of course there can be a specific reason for you to choose this color but the white cabinet is far too sharpwhite in my opinion. The Dirigent was never bright white but merely cream.
Second;There are not a lot of caps in these lovely machines, but of the few there are I can't help noticing that youdidn't replace the filter/reservoir cap. Any particular reason ?I would also recommend you replace the suppressor. It's a hardliving component and they are known to blowthemselves to pieces if they fail. It's one place where I value safety before originality so I like to fit a modernClass X2 component in its place. Even if it may look at bit out of place it will make it both safe and legal.
Martin
Dillen: First;Of course there can be a specific reason for you to choose this color but the white cabinet is far too sharpwhite in my opinion. The Dirigent was never bright white but merely cream.
That's what I've noticed as soon as I put the paint on. Will change that!
Dillen:There are not a lot of caps in these lovely machines, but of the few there are I can't help noticing that youdidn't replace the filter/reservoir cap. Any particular reason ?
No reason, just lack of knowledge. Have you got a cap kit since a few values do not exist anymore like 80uF, 1.6uF etc.
Other thing, what to do with the big cap 50+50+100uF, do I need to change that as well. Impossible to find this guy.
Dillen:I would also recommend you replace the suppressor. It's a hardliving component and they are known to blowthemselves to pieces if they fail. It's one place where I value safety before originality so I like to fit a modernClass X2 component in its place. Even if it may look at bit out of place it will make it both safe and legal.
What's a surpressor? Can you supply me this as well?
Thanks for the positive advises Martin!
That large fat silver colored cap is the main reservoir cap. It usually contained 3 smaller caps inside.
Purists hollow out the original large cap - it's a stinky business, and insert 3 new modern caps, wired up correctly., so it still looks original. I prefer to leave the new caps mounted separately, exposed to air, for better cooling - safety and longevity. I would use 82uF + 82uF + 220uF, without even blinking an eyelid. Check the correct VOLTAGE rating - you can increase the voltage rating by 20-30% easily for safety.
You do not need to find the EXACT value caps. An 80uF can be substituted by a common 100uF, a 1.6uF by a common 1.5 or 2.2uF, etc.
If it has the stinky selenium rectifiers, you can rebuild it in the original case, using 4 modern silicon UF4007's. You also need to use a (usually - in Grundig's, Philips, B&O's) 100ohm 10W dropping resistor at the rectifier's B+ output, because the silicon diodes have a lower forward voltage, which results in the rectifiers' output voltage being higher.
The suppressor cap is an AC, not a DC cap. It is usually between the Neutral and Live conductors at the input to the machine. Never use a standard DC cap there. Between Neutral and Live you may use an X1 or X2 or Y1 or Y2 cap. Between Neutral and Ground, or between Live and Ground, you may use ONLY a Y1 or Y2 cap. Vishay has a well-written white-paper with all these details.
If you get stuck and need these kinds of caps, let me know - I can always help you out. I have a large stock here.
Menahem
The caps values are not critical.You can safely fit 2,2uF instead of 1,6uF and replace 80uF with 100uF.The tolerances of the old caps are easily +20/-50% anyways and the circuits arenot that sensitive.
The suppressor is the cap that sits directly across the mains. It's typically a 10nF or 20nFcomponent and often rated in the 2500-5000 Volts range.I seem to remember that it's a 5nF cap in the Dirigent but you can fit a 10nF without problems.Just make sure to choose a Class X2 component, a type of foil capacitor that has a certain amount of"self-healing" and is factory guaranteed not to fail short.Something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-01uF-10nF-275VAC-Class-X2-Mains-Interference-Suppresion-Capacitors-Qty-5-/121209399296?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item1c38a4a800#ht_1727wt_721In your unit, it's the blue axial component, that sits near the large mains transformer and connects to the metal chassis.
(The Class Y caps are used where potential connections can be made to other units and/or handlingof cables. Like the grounding connection to the antenna input, gramophone input etc.If a cap in f.e. the grounding antenna lead shorts, mains live is on the chassis (it can be!)and you want to use the household heating or watertap installation for conecting toground potential, you will be in for a nasty surprise. The same goes if you connect f.e. agramophone to the Dirigent input and the two units have their mains phased differently).
I wouldn't worry too much about the rectifier unless proven bad.
Thank you so much both for the feedback given.
Few question though:
Is this blue cap (suppressor) your talking about?
This looks rather dangerous looking at the 230VAC wires connected to the main switch.
Is that normal or has this been protected originally? Can't find any isolation plate between the wires and the side of the metal housing.
Last question (I hope). I used some caps to replace the 1,6uf/64V for 1.5uF/50V. Is the voltage 50V critical?
Thanks again for your comments, much appreciated!
Leslie: Last question (I hope). I used some caps to replace the 1,6uf/64V for 1.5uF/50V. Is the voltage 50V critical?
Yes, If you had an 64 Volts cap and replaced it with an 50 Volt cap it's possible that you make a bom, at least... this doesn't work long...
I said also another time in another topic Leslie... ;)
Nu ff in het Nederlands, een apparaat van 110 Volt sluit je immers ook niet aan op onze 230 Volt netspanning.
Maar iets vervangen wat een lager Voltage heeft dan het origineel is vragen om moeilijkheden... al helemaal niet doen met voedingselco's want die zitten vaak al tegen de grens (met de originele waarde) aan.... :)
En 14 Volt teveel is vrij veel... weten wat er kan gebeuren ? ... dit: .. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3b7mjukhTyQ
Depends on what voltage there is accros the capacitor. If there is only 25-30Volts, it should be no problem. Look at the diagram and measure first if you start changing the specs of components.
Exactly what iPaul told me to do but in the mean time I ordered the caps with right voltage.
Menahem Yachad: If it has the stinky selenium rectifiers, you can rebuild it in the original case, using 4 modern silicon UF4007's. You also need to use a (usually - in Grundig's, Philips, B&O's) 100ohm 10W dropping resistor at the rectifier's B+ output, because the silicon diodes have a lower forward voltage, which results in the rectifiers' output voltage being higher.
Sorry Menahem,
But this is not correct.
A Silicon diode has a higher forward voltage (0,6-0,7V) than the older germanium version, which has only 0,2-0,3 V
So, it's the other way around. With the older germinum diodes you have a higher outputvoltage than with Silicon diodes. When (re)designing a diagram you have to calculate with different values. Just using a 100 Ohm resistor in series with the output isn't the solution. Depending on the current it depends how much voltagedrop there will be accros the resistor. And with bigger currents, there will be more, or even to much voltagedrop.
Beobuddy: A Silicon diode has a higher forward voltage (0,6-0,7V) than the older germanium version, which has only 0,2-0,3 V
Er... What ?
Jacques
You are correct about a GERMANIUM diode having a voltage drop of ~0.2VDC. But the rectifier plates are NOT Germanium, they are SELENIUM. And the Selenium rectifiers have ~1VDC drop, which increases with age.
I can tell you from experience, that the B+ voltage is ALWAYS higher after the UF4007 mod, necessitating a dropping resistor, and also for absorbing surges. I carry only a small number of various 10W resistors in stock - many times the 100ohm is pretty much the correct resistance. But of course this is not always the case.
My point here is to guide Leslie in the right direction. With a 100ohm as the starting point, we can get his before and after voltages, compute the current, and then add a second small 1/4W resistor in parallel to get the EXACT B+ voltage required.
But you have brought up an interesting point. It may well be that the new filter capacitor is contributing greatly to the increased B+ voltage. An old filter capacitor can barely do its job, and so the Ripple Vp-p is much greater (= lower Vrms). With a new capacitor, the ripple is much lower - I have posted Before and After waveform pictures in previous articles here, the Vp-p was reduced by half, therefore effectively increasing the B+ Vrms.
Here is an article which explains the issues very clearly.
http://w3hwj.com/index_files/RBSelenium2.pdf