ARCHIVED FORUM -- March 2012 to February 2022READ ONLY FORUM
This is the second Archived Forum which was active between 1st March 2012 and 23rd February 2022
On my last trip to TX I got my BG 1000 and a BM 1900 ( more in another thread). The BG 1000 is considered the first real B&O made BG. The BG 1000 has a sentimental value to me, it was the first ever B&O BG I have owned, I bought it new 1969 in Holstebro in DK together with a BM 1000 and a pair of Beovox 1000 , I owned this system for about 2 years and then sold it to buy a car. Last year I bought a BG and BM 1000 in DK, but my son fell in love with the BG and kept it there, now playing through a BG 1900 and Beovox P45s. So I brought the BM 1000 over here and had to look for a BG 1000 again. I am still looking for Beovox 1000, and one day they will be there too.
As I want the BG 1000 to perform perfectly I planned to take it apart completely check every single piece for wear and correct function. It came like this in a bad packing, but double boxed.
As you see a lot of damage to the acrylic cover and an ugly glue pad, probably someone had a cleaning or anti static brush glued on there.
It came just like this, no packing between cover and platter, the tonearm not secured to the stand, the cartridge in place, no tape to secure the cover to the base. As you see the 5 pin plug cut off and not there. The cable is white, I have until now only seen grey cables for BG signal cables.
Here the number and type, I think the type 5202 is an early version. The repair manual onsite is for later versions.
I bought this one on Ebay USA so I wonder now if I have a 50 Hz version or a converted to 60 Hz version. Maybe the 5202-1 type is the US version. I did not connect it to try, because I want to check everything first.
Bottom plate and power cable out.
Bottom plate off, looks clean, but as this is a VF version it should have a preamp inside, not so.
Where the preamp PCB should be inserted there is nothing and the connections are bridged, I checked the connectors and it looks OK.
Turned the deck around, and started dismantling from the top, pull off the insert for 7" records, keep on finger over the center hole to avoid the retaining ring to fly away to a never come back place, then with a pressure ring plier pull off the pressure ring. you can now take off the center plastic piece and the rubber mat. The speed selector and speed fine adjustment knobs comes off easily just pulling, mine speed selector knob came apart in 2 pieces, but a little glue will help there.
The platter comes off loosening 3 screws
Platter out
When you lift off the platter the drive belt comes off the platter, fumble a little and you can pull it off the drive pulley
Loosen the 4 screws and the the whole insert comes out, it is now time to pull off the the cartridge.
Wood frame out
Motor support, just to remember how the nylon pieces are fitted
Now desolder the 2 wires on the tonearm switch, disconnect all the other wires in the white connector, loosen 3 nuts on the motor support, use a pliers to lift off the spring loaded disks and pull out the motor with connected wires.
Loosen one grub screw holding the tonearm switch and pull it off take out operating shaft, take off the voltage switch.
The blade spring comes off by pulling it to middle of the rod, lift the rod a little and the spring can be pulled out sideways, then loosen the grub screw in the handle, pull out the rod from the lift lever and then from the lift handle.
All out
Desolder the wires coming from the tonearm, unhook the tracking weight spring, loosen the nut from the shaft and pull it off over the wires, take out the tonearm
Using the base plate as support pull out the small pin with a side cutter, keeping a finger on the spring doing it, loosen the nut and pull out the lift mechanism
Then I took off the bottom bearing, and found out that the bearing shaft has a screw securing the platter shaft through the recess in the the shaft, this means that you can get the complete platter off without taking off the top pieces (7" insert, plastic center, rubber mat and the 3 screws, easier when changing belt.
And here we are, a main cover ready to clean and paint. And thats how far I got yesterday with 3 hours job.
Collecting Vintage B&O is not a hobby, its a lifestyle.
Blimey, 3 hours, that's a lot done, fabulous pics, look forward to future work, anybody contemplating similar work in the future will really appreciate those pics
Great looking project Søren. I'll enjoy watching you restore this one. I know the feeling rejoining an old favorite piece of audio equipment. Very rewarding.
-sonavor
As you know from my other thread Soren, I have a very similar Beogram 1000 which like yours is an early one. I was lucky to find the Pre-Amp inside mine but they do occasionally come up for sale so keep your eyes open.
Watching with interest!
ben
Jacques
I didnt take apart the motor yet, but will do so, however it is turning light and without resistance (normal), I saw your thread Jacques. The preamp doesnt matter as the BM 1000 I have can be used with or without preamp, I will continue looking for one, we want it to be original, Martin has one of mine, he took it out of my sons BG 1000, but I dont think it fits in this one. I appreciate your comments and interest in the thread.
It has been sparse with threads in the vintage forum lately, I am following Sonavors and Jacques threads and both of them are now waiting for spares before they can get on. I have spares from Martin for BM 1000 and BM 1900, and will post as I get there also to do I have my BM 2400 that went down after 3 years good work.
But here what I did yesterday
This is the biggest damage on the top plate
I scraped off the worst of the glue, then the rest with acetone, then wet sanding with 220 grain in the glue area, then wet sanding with 400 grain all over, taking care not to damage the B&O sticker.
All clean and sanded I covered the holes where needed with paper strips rolled over a pencil and then inserted in the holes, masked the chromed nut and the B&O Sticker with thin clear tape (better than masking tape as it is thinner). Ready to clean one more time with acetone and then paint.
While I had all the sanding utensils out and ready, I started on the ugly acrylic cover, I placed it on a sturdy cardboard box that nearly fit into the cover Bad idea as I sanded with 30 micron the cardboard damaged the inside of the cover, I had to cover the box with a cotton rag, and later sand the inside with 15 micron and so on), I then wet sanded with a 30 micron sheet, parallel to the long side until the deep scratches was gone, the most difficult was the damage you can see in the first pics. I then went to 15 micron sanding parallel to the short side until all the grains from the 30 micron was gone, then down to 9 micron, long side, until all then grain from 15 micron was gone, then down to 3 micron, short side, I now had like a haze on the acrylic, not quite clear, I then took to Novus No. 2 scratch remover, and that did it. With 25°C in the garage this was a boot camp, 2 hours hard work, sweating like after a 5 Km run. I have some more covers where I tried with Novus No. 3 and 2 and 1, It didnt turn out as well as this one.
As you see nearly perfect, before finishing the deck I will give a good work with Novus No. 1 to protect and give the last shine.
Here the sheets I used, bought on Amazon, I used 1/10 of each sheet, always sand wet and cross wise then it is easier to see where and how you are sanding, and always sand until the grains of the last used disappears, and use a lot of water. Dry off water and let dry to see where you are at.
I was wondering Jacques, the Bain-Marie is Baño de Maria in Spanish, and Bain Marie in Frances, As I understand this the Englishmen and North American citizens use the France variation just with - in between, or do they have their own word for it ?
It should be something like Marie Bath. Well this is maybe better posted in Grumpy old men, I´m sure Rich will know
Painted Grey Hammered
Impressive restoration.... as always!
I look forward to your extremely interesting progress reports! With a cuba.
Jeff
Beogram 4000, Beogram 4002, Beogram 4004, Beogram 8000, Beogram 8002, Beogram 1602. Beogram 4500 CD player, B&O CDX player, Beocord 4500, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 5000 T4716, Beocord 8004, Beocord 9000, Beomaster 1000, Beomaster 1600, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 2400.2, Beomaster 4400, Beomaster 4500, Beolab 5000, Beomaster 5000, BeoCenter 9000. BeoSound Century, S-45.2, S-45.2, S-75, S-75, M-75, M-100, MC 120.2 speakers; B&O Illuminated Sign (with crown & red logo). B&O grey & black Illuminated Sign, B&O black Plexiglas dealer sign, B&O ash tray, B&O (Orrefors) dealer award vase, B&O Beotime Clock. Navy blue B&O baseball cap, B&O T-shirt X2, B&O black ball point pen, B&O Retail Management Binder
Søren Mexico: I was wondering Jacques, the Bain-Marie is Baño de Maria in Spanish, and Bain Marie in Frances, As I understand this the Englishmen and North American citizens use the France variation just with - in between, or do they have their own word for it ? It should be something like Marie Bath. Well this is maybe better posted in Grumpy old men, I´m sure Rich will know
I think the French term 'bain-marie' is used in UK, if memory serves. ¿ Baño Maria en español ?
Rich does not know.
That is some fantastic work on the dust cover. Today I feel well enough to get that BG3000 out.
Rich: Søren Mexico: I was wondering Jacques, the Bain-Marie is Baño de Maria in Spanish, and Bain Marie in Frances, As I understand this the Englishmen and North American citizens use the France variation just with - in between, or do they have their own word for it ? It should be something like Marie Bath. Well this is maybe better posted in Grumpy old men, I´m sure Rich will know Rich does not know.
Oh - we call that a "double boiler." I've only ever used it for melting chocolate, caramel, or otherwise working with candy and sauces made from candy.
That lid is excellent Søren. I must try and do that with mine.
Mine isn't quite as good as yours yet. The metal base is reasonable though.
Yours has an earlier serial number than mine as you can see.
http://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/14071/123574.aspx
Keep up the excellent work,
Ben
The lid keeps smiling at me when I walk by
Yesterday evening I started on the motor assembly, took it apart as far as is recommendable, As Jacques says in his thread the motor pulley will only come off if heated or with a special extractor.
The idler wheel has to come off first, one of the 3 screws is under the wheel, There is a 4rs screw near the small spring, leave it there it is only for the speed adjustment end stop.
The belt pulley comes off with the pressure clip, felt washer and a fiber washer, The idler wheel comes off pressing the selector arm, in highest position, to one side until the it is free of the idler wheel recess. The belt pulley has a tube with guides for the idler wheel, wery thin and very delicate, be careful with that one.
All clean, and now onto the problems
Cleaning, pieces of a fiber pad came out from the hole at the arrow, I intend to find a fiber washer, epoxy it the copper lip, or does anyone have a better solution, while you think about it, I will take my siesta and be back in a couple of hours with more
Hi Jacques,
Søren is in Mexico, so a siesta is serious business. The time involved has a good deal to do on whether Søren treated himself to a cuba before retiring.
If a cuba was included, this may take awhile.
Piaf:Søren is in Mexico, so a siesta is serious business
Right Jeff, a cuba and a small dish is a must just before siesta, now refreshed with one more cuba I can continue
Here the rotor assembly, The fine speed adjustment is done by moving the rotor in the magnetic field, if I understand this right, When the motor gets power, the rotor will move toward the center of the magnetic field, and touch the plate with the felt pad, this plate can be adjusted with the help of the knob inside the speed selector, Moving the rotor away from center will slow the speed, moving toward center will increase speed. This system is different from the later BG 1000 and 1200 series, where the motor pulley is conical and the idler wheel is moved up or down for speed adjustment. Here the motor pulley is cylindrical on each speed step and the rotor is moved for speed changes.
the tracking disk has a grub screw that secures it to the motor shaft, If the speed is way off adjusting the disk position can change the speed, this only as a last solutions if everything else is 100 % OK
Here a closeup of the felt pad, it was totally black and shiny, before cleaning, there is one more on the other side of the plate, I will add some drops of Liquid bearings to soak the felt pads. For the motor main bearings I will use a light motor oil.
And thats it for today, I will now go looking for a fiber washer to glue to the selector arm lip, and tomorrow be back with more.
Søren,
I admire how you think. You are a credit to us all!
There was an era when mine was Gin and Tonic, but I later switched to Rum and Coca-Cola.
Today it is Chardonnay…. and I gotta tell ya, Chardonnay is expensive. I woke up from a great night’s sleep with the lovely dream that I had purchased a Beomaster 4500… and I had (on eBay). A bit of cheese and one last Chardonnay and it made sense to me at the time.
So do I regret the purchase? Hell NO, it is the Beolab 5000 that I didn’t purchase that I regret. So true in life, most of what we regret is what we didn’t do rather than what we did.
Very good as usual !
I wouldn't treat the felt pads with any lubricants at all.They are brakes, I would leave them dry.
Martin
Piaf: Today it is Chardonnay…. and I gotta tell ya, Chardonnay is expensive.
Today it is Chardonnay…. and I gotta tell ya, Chardonnay is expensive.
You know, chardonnay is cheap here, very cheap. About 6€ a bottle of Mâcon. But then, I live in the Chardonnay area, it is a small village in Burgundy after all! Aren't I lucky?
Nice job Søren, with great pictures to boot.
I fear you missed my joke. While it is perfectly true that Chardonnay is expensive in British Columbia (the exact same bottle that is $5 in Oregon is $18 here, and please God don’t get me started on Champagne!), well for that matter all alcohol is very expensive due to the BC “sin tax.”
However my “expensive” comment was an attempt at humor in that after a lovely dinner I went to the computer before bed, had a bit of cheese and “one last Chardonnay” and got caught up in an “alcohol influenced” bidding war on eBay….. and won a Beomaster 4500.
I woke of the next morning marvelously refreshed with this delightful “dream” that I owned a Beomaster 4500. Something in me told me to check eBay and I was “surprised” to find my dream was reality.
Suffice to say I had a bit of “explaining” to do.
Frankly, it wasn’t an important story or a particularly good joke…. hey, but I tried.
No Chardonnay, no cubas, just coffee, hot, and black as my soul, enjoying a beautiful Mexican morning, sunny 22°C and increasing while editing my photos.
Repaired the lip with a piece of hard plastic I found in the "dont throw anything away box", I hope it will hold up to the RPMs
Close up it looks like this, I cleaned the glue surfaces with acetone, the plastic did not react to the acetone, so it must be good quality (hard), left it to dry over night.
Motor and drive assembly together again, all clean and lubricated where needed. As luck is on my side, I saw Martins remark about the felt pads, no oil, it a brake. So the fine speed adjustment is not as I thought, but just a simple brake.
Started fitting the parts in place, after moving things around one wire to the voltage switch broke off from the solder peg, soldered that one back and soldered the 2 wires back on the tonearm switch, the contact points on the switch was remarkably clean, I cleaned them with Deoxit, and nearly no dirt on the cleaning papers I used. In the upper part of the pic, you can see all the small parts ready to assemble. More to come
Piaf: I fear you missed my joke. Frankly, it wasn’t an important story or a particularly good joke…. hey, but I tried.
I fear you missed my joke.
Right, right! I get it now.
About the brake, I too wondered whether it would cause wow, but no, it doesn't.
Getting nearer
Inside finished, slowly I am getting good at soldering the tiny wires from the PU.
Platter back on, I had a new belt from Axel, but much too short, so the old belt got a good cleaning with paint thinner.
All back, adjusted PU height, counterweight and the arm support height. checked 33/45 speed, OK and adjustable, the 78 speed too slow, but the belt is old, the chromed speed dial was glued back to the lower plastic piece. Now only missing to solder on a new 5 pin plug.
The deck turned out so beautiful that I couldnt stop to take photos, the more yellow ones are with flash, and the others without flash.
The cover still needs a little work and has some dust from storing
Tonight I am going to fit the 5 pin plug, and tomorrow sound test.
Fantastic job Søren!
Your gift for detail is remarkable. It appears you truly have recreated your first B&O stereo and you did it all yourself.
Bravo!
Really great job! Any idea the condition of the cartridge?
Rich: Really great job! Any idea the condition of the cartridge?
Its a SP 6/7 cartridge, looks good but not tested yet
That turntable now looks like it is New Old Stock. Very nice work.
Didnt get to it yesterday, but today I soldered the 5 pin plug to the cable, first time I again soldered to the wrong pins, using pin 1 and 4, as no sound was present I was now thinking my BM 5000 (pizza box) was failing, but before I went on checking there I took a cuba and thought it over, as I have made that failure before I thought "better check the plug first, so desolder and solder one time more.
Playing good with the SP 6/7, but some distortion, after cleaning the cartridge properly it got better. I then changed the cartridge to a SP 14 repaired from Axel, the SP 6/7 is brighter.
Søren, you've done it again. Amazing job!
Hope everything is well on your side.
/Dennis
Excellent job Søren.
//Bo.A long list...
Dennis: Søren, you've done it again. Amazing job! Hope everything is well on your side. /Dennis
Nice to see you again here Dennis, yes all is well, hope its the same over there, next on will be my BM 1000, have kits from Martin.
This thread given many people satisfaction, cheers
Beautiful result!
I really should do something to mine. I had the needle reworked by Axel and played maybe one record side before consigning the sorry looking thing to storage...
--mika
This is one of the better quality aftermarket/copycat cartridges.
Nice work as always, Søren !
Dillen: This is one of the better quality aftermarket/copycat cartridges. Nice work as always, Søren ! Martin
I liked the sound of the SP14 from Axel better, the SP6/7 is brighter (more treble less bass) looking at the needle through a 10X thread counter the 6/7 looks black where as the Axel is white
That's weird, my SP6/7 with original NOS B&O stylus actually sounds better than my SP14! Bass is really good too.
I love these "resurrection" threads!
Søren Mexico:Nice to see you again here Dennis, yes all is well, hope its the same over there, next on will be my BM 1000, have kits from Martin.
I haven’t been posting as frequently through the past year or so as I would have liked to - school and work has been taking up a lot of my time and energy and still does. But that is hopefully about to change very soon as I'm taking a break from education when I've graduated from the 'gymnasium' (That's the danish word for it - not sure if high school is the equivalent?) this summer which will hopefully give me more time to spend on satisfying my BeoVirus. I have had my BeoVox M100s for almost two years now and have had cap kits from Martin waiting to be installed for just as long, so it's about time I think.
In about 2-3 months I'll hopefully be back on BeoWorld with renewed energy.
Hi Dennis,
You have it right…. or really close.
If you are speaking of a grade 12 education, then indeed, in English, it would be high school.
If you are referring to 4 additional years that would be college or university. Colleges generally are smaller or specialized schools of higher education; whereas a university contains several colleges.
The gymnasium is a building for physical education, generally featuring a basketball court, along with bathrooms, a locker room, and showers.
Right Jeff, Gymnasium (3 years) in DK is like High school in the US, all in all 12 year education, then follows the university, which in DK is just that, university. There are several lines of education there, but we dont call them college. Most university educations in DK is 3 years, but some few also 4 years. I know this from following my youngest son, now in his first year in the university in DK. I did my school education very fast only 7 years and then off to work, the rest I did in evening school and autodidact.